Raf99 : 1993 Accord EX

[Raf99]

OK... I attempted this. Put a lot of time into it and... ahhhh i'll let the pics tell the story. I was tackling this with 3 options.
1. Re-weld the ends closer to allow more room
2. Try two types of coolant connections
3. Use a 45deg. angle to make things work







Can't explain how hard it is to make these hoses. Need A LOT of muscle. I got blisters on my hands and that's with wearing gloves. Took me 3 hours from start to finish to complete this.





Helps to put something inside the hose to get a good clamp on it.





Now with all that work, I tried to make this work and.... it kinked. I thought about it, asked some folks, and ..... I agree with them. Fail. Going to start over from scratch.

Top view


Side view



This was the last thing I had to complete the engine bay. Not sure what I'm going to do yet. I'll..... stare at it for an hour and see what my brain can come up with. May buy more angles or ......... try a shorter / longer hose + angles. dunno.

OH ** Special thanks goes to Rilas for sending me that other coolant end!!!

[bjaccord]

If you are set on using braided lines I think your best option is two 90 degree fittings pointed down and a loop of braided line. It will allow for engine movement and shouldn't kink. Having a line that short is very difficult with a bend in it, especially if you have one stationary point and one that moves.

[Rilas]

Damnit! I was really hoping this would finally get this resolved for you.

Your welcome for the part though. At least it seems like it is going to be part of the final solution.

[G. Wiffington]

Don't be afraid to learn about tuning. I literally had no idea what I was doing
but I tuned my Euro R all by myself. I know you have a turbo setup but you
just have do a lot of reading. I am not sure if this is frowned upon mentioning on here
but, I learned a lot from the hondata forum. Basically a years worth of studying
of how Smanager operates.

You can do it man!

[Raf99]

If you are set on using braided lines I think your best option is two 90 degree fittings pointed down and a loop of braided line. It will allow for engine movement and shouldn't kink. Having a line that short is very difficult with a bend in it, especially if you have one stationary point and one that moves.

Engine movement, can't say I've seen that in quite some time I guess the mounts may move few mm.

Damnit! I was really hoping this would finally get this resolved for you.

Your welcome for the part though. At least it seems like it is going to be part of the final solution.

Hey, thanks again man. If ya ever need anything just hollar!

Don't be afraid to learn about tuning. I literally had no idea what I was doing
but I tuned my Euro R all by myself. I know you have a turbo setup but you
just have do a lot of reading. I am not sure if this is frowned upon mentioning on here
but, I learned a lot from the hondata forum. Basically a years worth of studying
of how Smanager operates.

You can do it man!

Ya, we'll YouTube learn for now :P But as stated before you really do "set it and forget it". But talking with my tuner the other day he noted that if that one exhaust valve was stuck open and now is fixed I should see more HP and higher A/F. We also got talking about more HP and I agree with him that larger injectors are required and he said a meth kit too. So much $$$ to get 100HP :P

Oh.... I also started on this....

[toycar]

Engine movement, can't say I've seen that in quite some time I guess the mounts may move few mm.



Hey, thanks again man. If ya ever need anything just hollar!



Ya, we'll YouTube learn for now :P But as stated before you really do "set it and forget it". But talking with my tuner the other day he noted that if that one exhaust valve was stuck open and now is fixed I should see more HP and higher A/F. We also got talking about more HP and I agree with him that larger injectors are required and he said a meth kit too. So much $$$ to get 100HP :P

Oh.... I also started on this....

Did he outline why exactly he feels you need larger injectors? Maybe I’m overlooking something in the details here but number say you don’t need bigger injectors

[Raf99]

Did he outline why exactly he feels you need larger injectors? Maybe I’m overlooking something in the details here but number say you don’t need bigger injectors

He showed me this.
https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/Technical

500HP, 4injectors, 0.6 BSFC, 0.8DC, 40PSI at the rail = 1027CC injectors

[Raf99]

I LOL a while at this...

So I always wanted to do this.


Found some clears, decided to paint on the outside first to see what happens. & guess what... , I ended up just making red/clears lol..



...... sooo now we know they painted on the inside

[NH-503P-3]

Try a stained glass red paint also. It’ll give a better reflective look on the chrome backing.

[SSMAccord]

I LOL a while at this...

So I always wanted to do this.


Found some clears, decided to paint on the outside first to see what happens. & guess what... , I ended up just making red/clears lol..



...... sooo now we know they painted on the inside

I think looking at the lights on the car you pictured, the red portion is either on the inside of the lens or most likely the red is painted on the inner plastic diffuser. The highlights on the ribs of the lights in that image are white (indicating that the lens has no color) and the red seems to be inside of the clear lens outer if that makes any sense. It also seems like it may have a transparent black on top of the red to make it darker.

The VHT paint is easy enough to remove with denatured alcohol, so I think you can take another stab at this.

[Raf99]

I think looking at the lights on the car you pictured, the red portion is either on the inside of the lens or most likely the red is painted on the inner plastic diffuser. The highlights on the ribs of the lights in that image are white (indicating that the lens has no color) and the red seems to be inside of the clear lens outer if that makes any sense. It also seems like it may have a transparent black on top of the red to make it darker.

The VHT paint is easy enough to remove with denatured alcohol, so I think you can take another stab at this.

Agreed.

[Raf99]

These things are super hard to get apart... baaa. But the good news is I may need this outline on the inside.

[NH-503P-3]

Ya know what John, the taillights in the pic don’t have the top diffusers in them either. Only on the bottom. That’s why the horizontal lines are more visable. Or maybe none of the diffusers are in. Now that I’ve taken a second look.

[Raf99]

All good. We are in unchartered waters here. All corners are intact. I feel like this is an impossible task; everything fights you the whole way with these cheap things... (sarcasm....)

- heat it up to melt that stuff but not the other stuff. Repeat until you're just on the edge of melting the wrong stuff. yep.
- push on this plastic tab just hard enough to make it give without physically breaking it. Oh, is it hot enough? X 10
- *crack sound*.. SHIT! something cracked... find the crack, find the crack. ahhh err, no crack. Continue on.
- pry on screw driver... noope to soon.

OK. One light done.

[NH-503P-3]

Oh man, I know the cracking sound you’re talking about also. It’s not cool. Thankfully I did not hear that sound putting my headlights back together. Tail lights however are a different story they seem to be way more brittle and prone to break. Good luck bro. I cracked my extra tails a few times getting the outer lenses off.