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No BS belt, yes manual tensioner, what else can be removed?

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    No BS belt, yes manual tensioner, what else can be removed?

    I think this thread belongs here rather than the technical section.

    While putting my H23A VTEC together on the timing side, I went back and forth on just leaving the BS belt off or ordering the delete kit to fully and properly delete the shafts. After seeing the process for plugging certain holes in the girdle and tapping a hole in the block, I realized the whole entire motor would be coming apart, and the wallet, at the current moment, doesn't support that. Thus, I am just going to run with the belt off. Plus, I switched over to the manual tensioner, the KSTuned type that directly replaces the automatic tensioner (no H23 manual tensioner parts swapped over).

    Here's the question: what else can/should be removed when not using the BS belt and using this type of manual tensioner?

    I have heard that you can remove the outer tension pulley, associated lever and spring, bolt and stud that runs through both pulleys, and the long stud that sticks out of the water pump (it protrudes through the top left of the OEM tension bracket for the timing belt). KSTuned sells the crakshaft spacer separate from their delete kit, so I guess you could eliminate the larger gear on the crankshaft as well. It also seems to me like the gear for the front balance shaft (near the alternator) can go.

    Here is KSTuned's manual tensioner video, where you can see the bolt going through the pulleys is taken out and the water pump stud is left out:

    While putting my H23A VTEC together on the timing side, I went back and forth on just leaving the BS belt off or ordering the delete kit to fully and properly delete the shafts. After seeing the process for plugging certain holes in the girdle and tapping a hole in the block, I realized the whole entire motor would be coming apart, and the wallet, at the current moment, doesn't support that. Thus, I am just going to run with the belt off. Plus, I switched over to the manual tensioner, the KSTuned type that directly replaces the automatic tensioner (no H23 manual tensioner parts swapped over).

    Here's the question: what else can/should be removed when not using the BS belt and using this type of manual tensioner?

    I have heard that you can remove the outer tension pulley, associated lever and spring, bolt and stud that runs through both pulleys, and the long stud that sticks out of the water pump (it protrudes through the top left of the OEM tension bracket for the timing belt). KSTuned sells the crakshaft spacer separate from their delete kit, so I guess you could eliminate the larger gear on the crankshaft as well. It also seems to me like the gear for the front balance shaft (near the alternator) can go.

    Here is KSTuned's manual tensioner video, where you can see the bolt going through the pulleys is taken out and the water pump stud is left out:



    I just want to run all that by you guys before I do it. Thanks in advance for the help.

    NOTE: We have many threads going back and forth on not running balance shafts, so I don't want this thread to turn into that.

    I just want to run all that by you guys before I do it. Thanks in advance for the help.

    NOTE: We have many threads going back and forth on not running balance shafts, so I don't want this thread to turn into that.
    *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
    ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
    ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

    F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
    "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


    MRT
    Selling on Ebay!

    15.10 @ 90.42mph
    The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
    Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

    #2
    You will either need the spacer ks sells for the balance gear on the crankshaft or leave it on. If you don’t do this you alternator belt will cut into your lower timing cover and the timing belt will walk off the cam gears and start rubbing against the cover. Since you are doing the KSTuned manual tensioner I believe you can remove the outer tensioner pulley since you won’t have the adjuster like on the f22a. If you were to do the h23 manual tensioner then you would have to retain that pulley or at the very minimum run a spacer to allow the nut to stick out and be able to lock down on something. You can remove the spring, outer lever and the stud on the water pump.
    Last edited by Grumpys93; 05-27-2019, 10:48 AM.
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks, Nick!

      I think what I will do for simplicity sake is just keep the outer crank gear on, and save like $30.

      The reason I did not go with the H23 tensioner is because I heard that the belt is extremely tight by default and is almost impossible to get on unless you tilt the cams upward so that the cam gears tilt downward.

      So you are certain on the removal of the water pump stud, outer lever, and spring, but not so sure on the pulley stud + outer pulley and the front balance shaft gear?

      I will be doing seals as well, and be installing the front balance shaft seal retainer. I found some leakiness under the crank seal.
      *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
      ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
      ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

      F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
      "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


      MRT
      Selling on Ebay!

      15.10 @ 90.42mph
      The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
      Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

      Comment


        #4
        That’s the same reason I didn’t get the spacer when I bought the kit a long time ago. No need to spend another $30 to save maybe .5 lbs.

        Watching the video and looking at my H22a in the garage yes you can remove pretty much everything dealing with the automatic tensioner minus the tensioner arm itself and the bolt it pivots on. I would look into replacing that tensioner pulley, it will just add some extra security and piece of mind. I’ve never heard of one failing but while your down there might as well.

        So the arm, spring, water pump stud, outer pulley, pulley stud can go. As for removing the front balance shaft gear I don’t see a reason why you couldn’t as you aren’t running the belt and it’s not holding anything together.

        I think it is smart to replace those seals as well. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Glad I could help.
        ~Nick~
        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

        Comment


          #5
          I have a new Gates kit going in (well, the parts I am actually using), so the whole tensioner arm and pulley will be new. I honestly wish they threw in some Honda seals, seeing what they charge, but it's all good.
          *** Think of others before thinking of yourself. ***
          ********** Spread love, not hate. ***********
          ****Lift others up with kind and helpful words****

          F20A_CB7, I miss you, but I will see you one day.
          "Nothing a little prayer can't fix."


          MRT
          Selling on Ebay!

          15.10 @ 90.42mph
          The quest for 9s ceased, now the goal is a circuit track monster!
          Current fastest Laguna Seca Lap: 1:52.889

          Comment

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