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Alternatives to GDT5 Captive Rotor Tool

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    Alternatives to GDT5 Captive Rotor Tool

    Good Afternoon,

    I recently learned of the existence of the dreaded Captive Rotor design used on the 90-97 accords when I started thinking about replacing my pads and rotors, and thought it might be cool to get one of those handy dandy Rotor/Hub Removal tools they sold out of MATCO trucks for a little while. Of course I find that they are long out of production and there apparently aren't any for sale second-hand.

    My question is, NOT INCLUDING A SLIDE-HAMMER, has anyone come across an alternative tool they have used for the same purpose?

    I found something similar on EBAY that seemed to be for multiple different vehicles but the shipping cost on it was close to 3x the price of the tool itself since it was coming from Germany, and even if I was okay with spending that kind of money it was still pretty vague as to whether it was correct for this application.

    #2
    Most of us now have gone rotor over hub design as more available options and not having the hassle of having to press in hubs when you need to do a brake job.
    Last edited by Grumpys93; 10-23-2018, 05:16 PM.
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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      #3
      Technically, the bearing is not pressed into the knuckle. It is a close fit that gets rusty and acts like it is pressed in. I still have the original arrangement. To remove the bearing/hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle, I remove the four original bolts, then install four longer slave bolts that allow me to hammer on them (with less risk of hitting the knuckle) to drive the bearing out of the knuckle. Use some grease or anti-seize at the interface when reinstalling to prevent them from rusting together again.
      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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        #4
        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
        Technically, the bearing is not pressed into the knuckle. It is a close fit that gets rusty and acts like it is pressed in. I still have the original arrangement. To remove the bearing/hub/rotor assembly from the knuckle, I remove the four original bolts, then install four longer slave bolts that allow me to hammer on them (with less risk of hitting the knuckle) to drive the bearing out of the knuckle. Use some grease or anti-seize at the interface when reinstalling to prevent them from rusting together again.
        Do you just use a deadblow hammer? How hard do you have to hit it to get it off?

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          #5
          Originally posted by Harriers Wake View Post
          Do you just use a deadblow hammer? How hard do you have to hit it to get it off?
          As hard as you can. First time I did mine it was a big hammer, out to the driveway and beat the crap out of it. But you can also use the bolts method which is way better and safer. Thread bolts in to push it out.

          There are many ways when you think about it. But for this job you'll want the 'right tool for the job'.

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