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90 CB7 need a kit to convert rear drums to disc breaks.

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    90 CB7 need a kit to convert rear drums to disc breaks.

    I'm new to these forums, its good to meet you all.

    I bought my 90 CB7 new in 89, she's a 2 door, manual with a sunroof. I'm never giving her up, she's perect in so many wsys... but she's showing her age too. It's time for some serious overhauling. I'm starting with breaks and suspension. I replaced the transmission 3 years ago, and I feel stupid for going with a cheap rebuilt job instead of putting money into something worthy. I'm trying to do right by her from here on out.

    First thing I want to do is convert the rear drums to disc. I know I can pull the system off a 92 in a junkyard, but I don't want to. I want to buy a kit that will hold up to the final product. I can't find one on Brembo, Wilwood or any other reputable sites. Looking through your forums, you guys look like you know CB7 tuners like nobody else, so I'm hoping you can help me out with some leads on quality parts.

    #2
    Holy crap!

    One owner is amazing!

    We need pictures mate!

    Welcome to Cb7tuner.

    Now,

    Why do you want a kit, what's wrong with using other car parts?

    You can always replace all the parts with new bits of even buy everything new through somewhere like rock auto.
    sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

    Comment


      #3
      The Accord Store (tasauto.com) used to offer a package that included a custom bracket to attach an OEM rear caliper, as well as all of the other necessary rear disc hardware. If I remember correctly, it was ridiculously expensive. The company was never really at the forefront of the Accord modifying hobby, but whatever status they had they're a shell of now.

      The reason that the bracket was needed was that the rear knuckle was different between the drum and disc-equipped Accords. The rear disc Accords used a rear knuckle that included mounting ears for the caliper that the rear drum version did not.

      I know you want a kit to eliminate the need for researching compatibility, avoiding used parts and ensuring you get everything in one place. Since it doesn't exist, you have a couple of options. You can put up with the rear drums as they are, or you can turn to a valuable resource that is the knowledge of this forum and trust that you will be given sound advice on how to acquire the parts you need while considering your preferences.

      My suggestion would be to go to a junkyard and find an Accord to pull the rear disc components from. Many of the parts are substantial enough that, if even still available from Honda, would cost substantially more than you have any business spending regadless of what your budget it.

      You will need:

      Rear knuckles
      Rear caliper brackets (You can buy new boots and pins to refurbish these.)
      Rear calipers (These can be purchased already rebuilt with new dust/oil seals and bleeders.)
      Emergency brake cables (These can also be purchased new to avoid rusted or frayed ones at the junkyard.)
      Rear rotors (Obviously these can be purchased new.)
      Rear brake pads (Here's a potential spot to upgrade!)
      Rear wheel bearing/hub (Unless the ones you get on the new rear knuckles have some that are in good condition. But, judging by your post, I'm assuming you would want to replace these with new parts.)
      Rear brake lines (There are two soft lines per side and one hard line per side. Get the hard line with the rear knuckles if it's in good shape, or buy new from Honda. The soft lines offer a good chance for an upgrade with stainless steel braided options available.)
      Trailing arm bracket (There are two of these per side, an upper and a lower and you only need the uppers. The uppers on the rear-disc cars have a mounting boss for the rear brake lines that you'll need.)
      I would grab all of the hardware you can while you're at it to ensure you have all of the caliper mounting bolts, caliper bracket bolts and so on.

      A few parts you could replace while you're in there would be the lower shock mounts in the rear knuckles and the upper control arms which will have worn ball joints by this time.

      Just a suggestion. If you don't feel up to the task of heading to the junkyard, I'm sure someone would be willing to do it for you. Something else you could do would be to have all of the new components powder coated when putting them back on just so that they're extra protected and clean looking.
      My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

      Comment


        #4
        The recommended thing would be to get the parts from a junkyard. Replace all worn parts and install on your car. However, since this may not appeal to you, then you might want to look on craigslist or something like that for a parts car. Try to look for something with a blown motor with rear disc brakes. Then you could honestly just transfer stuff from the parts car to yours, or even pay someone if you are inclined to do that.


        *powder-coating: be very careful with this. If the person doing it powdercoats the inside of any bolt hole, then it will be really difficult to install a bolt. It adds a certain thickness of powder layer that can cause bolts not to fit anymore. Same thing with tight fitting brackets.

        Comment


          #5
          What's your goal here? Disc brakes are nice and all but...why do you need them?

          Most of the braking in a FWD vehicle like the CB7 comes from the front. I don't think you'll see a meaningful improvement in braking performance or feel in daily driving. It would be far cheaper and easier to renew your current drums if you just want OE-like performance.

          If you were going to race the car then I agree that you may want to upgrade.

          EDIT: I thought all CB7 EX's had disc brakes from the factory? Or is yours not an EX? You say it has a sunroof but it's possible it was an aftermarket installation on a DX or LX.
          1992 EX, 306,000 miles - Track toy - M2S4, H23A1, ST rear swaybar, Wagon brakes, GC coil sleeves, KYB AGX dampers, Stoptech pads, Toyo Proxes R1R, 2.25" exhaust



          Stock F22A6
          VIR, 5/22/2016: https://youtu.be/eR5-ylSPsxk

          H23A1 powered
          NCCAR, 9/4/2016: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TI5WpxGrEpE
          CMP, 10/16/2016: https://youtu.be/DOqoe5f-GLY

          Comment


            #6
            In the US, only the '92-'93 EX/SE/10th Anniversary and '91 SE had rear discs. '90-'91 EXs did not
            My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

            Comment


              #7
              An original owner of an original, first year CB! Really cool! Welcome!

              Whatever you do, don't buy a "kit". In fact, avoid kits for pretty much anything on your car. A kit is nothing more than a collection of parts assembled by someone that is making a profit just for putting the parts together in a single package. You're paying for the convenience of not having to think for yourself. The person that assembled the kit will often use lower quality parts to cut costs and increase their profit (and also to ensure an attractive selling price.)
              Aside from the kit that TASauto provided, as Jarrett mentioned, I don't believe such a thing exists. The TAS kit was really just parts sourced from a Honda parts counter, marked up, and resold for a profit (like most of their OEM parts.) TAS has gotten so shady now that I have a feeling that the price is the same, but the parts are low quality junk (if they still offer a kit at all.)

              Jarrett's first reply tells you pretty much everything you will need. There are multiple threads on here that discuss the swap.

              It would also be a good idea to source a 40/40 proportioning valve from an older Integra. Since all CB Accords with rear discs have ABS, and the drum-equipped CBs do not, there is no proper proportioning valve made for a CB with 4 wheel disc brakes and no ABS.

              What's your reason for wanting rear discs? The drum brakes, when properly maintained, function just as well. The only real reason to swap in most cases is because drums are ugly. For any real performance upgrade, you'd need to have a pretty thorough understanding of brake balance... and then you'd need to do some serious custom work.
              If you want an easy semi-performance upgrade, you can always replace your front brakes with wagon brakes, which allow for slightly larger rotors.






              Comment


                #8
                Thanks guys, there is a lot of good advice here. Jarrett is accurate on the years and the break systems too. My EX came from the year before they started offering rear discs and ABS. Honestly, I like not having ABS, but I plan on dropping a boosted Type-R into her, so I'll need it, but I'm projecting a few years there. I could do it sooner, but I am going to try to get 1,000,000 miles on the original engine first. She has 689,311 (I called Honda at 500k, they weren't impressed. But I'm not handing her over at a million, I'm putting the block in the middle of my living room) now. I'm starting to have suspension issues; driver side front is lower than the other corners, body roll is getting too exaggerated, and ball joints are startng to make noise again. It's also time for front rotors. I'm just going to redo the entire break system when I rebuild the suspension. I have been pretty good about keeping the mechanics sound, but I've largely ignored the exterior for years. Mostly because my finances were pretty stressed for a while, but it was also because my relationship with her was more about driving and less about what other people think about her looks. Even though she's pretty high milage, she still drives like a dream. I've driven some pretty high dollar cars that are supposed to be beasts, but they generally have a hard time coming close to her when it comes to acceleration, handling and responsiveness. It might have more to do with the fact that I have been driving her daily for 25 years, so I don't have to think about what I want her to do, she just does it. I have always wanted to turn her into a tuner, I even moved to FL so I wouldn't have any restrictions on what I put under the hood. I'm finally where I need to be to start the ultimate tuner project (for me, anyway) so I want to make sure I get it all done right. I'll get started on your suggestions. I'll post pics as I start this leg of the project. Again, thank you for your advice.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Boosted Type-R?






                  Comment


                    #10
                    Wow! 689K+ miles! That gives me hope about keeping mine going, which only has 331K. Where in Florida are you?

                    Originally posted by Mostly Rock View Post
                    Thanks guys, there is a lot of good advice here. Jarrett is accurate on the years and the break systems too. My EX came from the year before they started offering rear discs and ABS. Honestly, I like not having ABS, but I plan on dropping a boosted Type-R into her, so I'll need it, but I'm projecting a few years there. I could do it sooner, but I am going to try to get 1,000,000 miles on the original engine first. She has 689,311 (I called Honda at 500k, they weren't impressed. But I'm not handing her over at a million, I'm putting the block in the middle of my living room) now. I'm starting to have suspension issues; driver side front is lower than the other corners, body roll is getting too exaggerated, and ball joints are startng to make noise again. It's also time for front rotors. I'm just going to redo the entire break system when I rebuild the suspension. I have been pretty good about keeping the mechanics sound, but I've largely ignored the exterior for years. Mostly because my finances were pretty stressed for a while, but it was also because my relationship with her was more about driving and less about what other people think about her looks. Even though she's pretty high milage, she still drives like a dream. I've driven some pretty high dollar cars that are supposed to be beasts, but they generally have a hard time coming close to her when it comes to acceleration, handling and responsiveness. It might have more to do with the fact that I have been driving her daily for 25 years, so I don't have to think about what I want her to do, she just does it. I have always wanted to turn her into a tuner, I even moved to FL so I wouldn't have any restrictions on what I put under the hood. I'm finally where I need to be to start the ultimate tuner project (for me, anyway) so I want to make sure I get it all done right. I'll get started on your suggestions. I'll post pics as I start this leg of the project. Again, thank you for your advice.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      CBS are big cars but good luck fitting another car into it.
                      sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

                      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by lbus9168 View Post
                        CBS are big cars but good luck fitting another car into it.
                        He's most likely referring to the motor. Sarcastic and not helping at all?


                        OP: Check out "Million Mile Joe". He has a cb7 that is well over a million miles. I am not sure if the original motor had a million miles, but the unibody did for sure.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Its just a joke, No need to be upset.

                          British/Australian humour.
                          sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

                          http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by oni_cb7 View Post
                            He's most likely referring to the motor. Sarcastic and not helping at all?


                            OP: Check out "Million Mile Joe". He has a cb7 that is well over a million miles. I am not sure if the original motor had a million miles, but the unibody did for sure.
                            I believe it was the original motor and trans!

                            OP- care you elaborate more on the boosted type R ? You talking a B series motor or.?

                            None the less having bought that car new and the fact you still drive it daily amazes me! That's awesome!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yes, lbus9168, I meant the motor ; )

                              I have often wondered if I could fit a JDM B18C Type R motor in my CB7, but I haven't really been shopping for engines yet, the original is still running really well. I do want to do it before I do anything major to the body, because I'd like to try twin turbos, so the whole front clip is going to get replaced so I can drop a 4 chamber intercooler in there. I have seen some wide body kits too, that would work well with some wide tires. As is, she hooks really well in turns, and I'd like to see how much further I can go with high-speed cornering if I build her for it. As I get further along, I will start taking the potential engine package more seriously, but right now I'm finally getting to where I can start implementing 25 years of dreaming.

                              SEgirl, I'm about a mile north of Orlando, but I've run down the emerald coast a few times. Once, I thought I was gonna lose her. Water pump failed in Tampa one night, and if I wasn't at a job site in Destin by 6am I would have been fired. I stopped every time the heat climbed too high and added water, but it didn't do much. I made it there with 10 min to spare, layed my hand wide open between my first and second knuckles while I was working with a pipe saw (I was exhausted) and then replaced the water pump and timing belt in the parking lot before getting stitches. I am still amazed that I didn't blow the engine.

                              Comment

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