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Boosting the H22 ?

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    #16
    Originally posted by Joey GT-R View Post
    Sunbelt Rentals on Mercury Blvd in Hampton rents engine lifts....Or at least they used to. There may be one in Norfolk. I'm not sure of the rates, but you could inquire. Besides an F22A isn't THAT heavy. You and a friend can definitely lift it and put it in your trunk.

    EDIT - They are no longer there but here is the link, there is a couple on your side of the tunnel.

    Sunbelt Rentals in Hampton Roads

    Also if you want to buy one Harbor Freight Tools on Jefferson Avenue in Newport News has a very reasonable priced one with all the capacity you would need.

    Engine Lift at Harbor Freight Tools
    im in the military we have our own shop and rent lifts for like 2-4 bucks an hour no biggie, and i have 2 12" subs in my trunk >.<. When u coming back to VA ?
    Jesus drove a Honda, he just didnt talk about it like us. Proof - John 12:49 "For i did not speak of my own accord."
    Originally posted by deevergote
    den das al u ned u no dat u get wurs gas milge tho rite?
    Originally posted by deevergote
    These cars will never be the best at anything, but they're pretty damn good at everything.

    Comment


      #17
      No time soon, Lol. It won't be til I finish the turbo H. So probably the end of the summer. I have a running bet with my crew up there and if I don't come back with one I get my ass beat and I lose some cash.(And I mean that almost literally). I am no longer active duty, but I can still get on Eustis and Langley and I know what you're talking about.

      It seems like you have all you need. As far as the subs thing...hey that's a personal issue, Lol. I never understood the subs things, I don't see why I need the whole neighborhood to hear my music, and to me it all sounds staticy that loud anyways. You could remove your the subs for a day or two and carry the engine in your trunk or possibly remove your passenger seat up front and that should hold it. Worst case scenario is go to uhaul and rent a trunk for a couple hours. I think it's like 20 plus gas.

      If you're going to go the route Deev suggested(same route I'm taking) why not get another H22? I bought a short block and took it from there. You can buy short blocks for roughly 100-150. Then buy a complete head for 200-300. All you would have to do is piece them together and buy your pumps, belts, seals, and arp bolts(which you would be replacing anyways).
      '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

      Originally posted by deevergote
      If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

      Comment


        #18
        From the research I've done, an F22A is a bit cheaper to build, and replacement parts are both easier to find and cheaper to buy when they break. Seeing as the H22 and the F22 are capable of making insane amounts of power (the most powerful car on this site right now has a boosted F22 under the hood), there's no real point.
        The ONLY reason to have a boosted H22 under the hood is for looks. You can get the same performance from an F22A, but the DOCH VTEC valve cover does look pretty sweet. Most people with boosted H22s boost what they've already had, or they didn't know any better and assumed the H22 would be the better option.

        Plus, if it's for a low-boost setup, an F22A's iron sleeves are easier for a shop to hone, and there are multiple piston options, rather than just the Mahle Gold Series for the H22A's FRM sleeves. For a low boost setup, $1000+ on a quality resleeving isn't necessary.






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          #19
          This is very true. H22 is purely for looks in a sense. I can't lie, there were times myself when I wondered if I really wanted to go this route and not go back to an F22. But regardless I'm still sleeving, because I want my engine to be as bulletproof as possible. I know NWAccord is making monster power right now on stock sleeves, but he's got two rides and I've got one; gotta stay on the road at all times.
          '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

          Originally posted by deevergote
          If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

          Comment


            #20
            Okay this thread is something that I was looking into seeing as I have already done a bit of work on my F22 (just bolt on's mainly). But had thought about boosting an H22. After seeing this It seems that the majority say to boost the F22 if you are looking to do a turbo build correct?

            Also I know I will need forged internals and that gets expensive fast. Also Bisimoto has the engine building services and from what everyone says they are the best for the F-series. Which package would be best through them. (I am new to the whole rebuilding part. But that is all that is left really to do to go faster)

            Comment


              #21
              I have a buddy who boosted a h22 in a cb7. Two weeks later there was a hole the size of my fist in the block. If you go boost on a h22, you will need to keep an eye on what kind of compression you are running, have it built the right way, and tuned the right way. A stock h22 is not good for boost and will most definatley need work done to the internals in the block to handle the boost. Also, the materials used to make the h22 were not as great or as strong as the f22. I wish i knew more but that is my contribution to this. In the process of learning all the odds and ends of boost.


              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=189897 MRT
              http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...09#post3003309 EF hatch build

              Comment


                #22
                the materials used were for two different purposes. one was economical and one was more performance oriented. both lasted long but the iron sleeves on a f22 are more durable.
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by tabaccord19 View Post
                  After seeing this It seems that the majority say to boost the F22 if you are looking to do a turbo build correct?

                  Also I know I will need forged internals and that gets expensive fast. Also Bisimoto has the engine building services and from what everyone says they are the best for the F-series. Which package would be best through them. (I am new to the whole rebuilding part. But that is all that is left really to do to go faster)

                  The majority of people say boost an F22 because it is the CHEAPER ROUTE. This community is not known for making the big bucks so the path of least resistance is almost always the one taken. That's why there's only about 50 people on this forum making some serious power and the rest are left at just simple bolt ons.

                  You need to contact Bisimoto and discuss your goals with them. They will prescribe what package is best tailor a custom one to your needs.

                  Originally posted by redlined302
                  I have a buddy who boosted a h22 in a cb7. Two weeks later there was a hole the size of my fist in the block. If you go boost on a h22, you will need to keep an eye on what kind of compression you are running, have it built the right way, and tuned the right way. A stock h22 is not good for boost and will most definatley need work done to the internals in the block to handle the boost. Also, the materials used to make the h22 were not as great or as strong as the f22. I wish i knew more but that is my contribution to this. In the process of learning all the odds and ends of boost.
                  I sincerely get pissed off when I hear the bandwagon fallacy: "My buddy did xyz and then his motor blew up." It's not just boosting an H22 stock that will land you in hot water, boosting ANY stock engine is cause for disaster. When boosting stock motors the tune is that much more crucial. It sounds like your friend either didn't tune the motor or the tuner he went to wasn't as adept as he thought. Or perhaps maybe your motor just wasn't healthy enough to survive that kind of increase in power. Granted I don't endorse boosting H22s stock; but I don't deny the fact that people do and get them to last for several years.

                  And there is nothing wrong with the FRM sleeves. You need a special piston to work with them yes, but they will handle just as much as power as a stock Honda iron sleeve in most cases. OEM sleeves will crack after a certain point no matter what materials you are working with. There are a few exceptions, but I write that off to a great tune, and ALOT of luck. You boost 28psi with a decent sized turbo on stock H22 sleeves and eventually they will crack. You boost 28psi with that same sized turbo on the stock sleeves of an F22 and eventually they too will crack.
                  '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

                  Comment


                    #24
                    The H22's FRM sleeves are strong, light, and great at dissipating heat. I'm SO tired of uneducated people saying "the H22's sleeves aren't good for boost".
                    Honestly, NOTHING inside a Honda block is good for boost! It wasn't made for it.

                    Originally posted by tabaccord19 View Post
                    Okay this thread is something that I was looking into seeing as I have already done a bit of work on my F22 (just bolt on's mainly). But had thought about boosting an H22. After seeing this It seems that the majority say to boost the F22 if you are looking to do a turbo build correct?

                    Also I know I will need forged internals and that gets expensive fast. Also Bisimoto has the engine building services and from what everyone says they are the best for the F-series. Which package would be best through them. (I am new to the whole rebuilding part. But that is all that is left really to do to go faster)
                    The F22A is the more economical route, and you'll make just as much power as with an H22A. If/when you blow it up, it's also cheaper to replace.
                    Your best bet is to contact Bisimoto directly and ask them what is best. They would know their products far better than anyone one here.






                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                      The H22's FRM sleeves are strong, light, and great at dissipating heat. I'm SO tired of uneducated people saying "the H22's sleeves aren't good for boost".
                      Honestly, NOTHING inside a Honda block is good for boost! It wasn't made for it.



                      The F22A is the more economical route, and you'll make just as much power as with an H22A. If/when you blow it up, it's also cheaper to replace.
                      Your best bet is to contact Bisimoto directly and ask them what is best. They would know their products far better than anyone one here.
                      Thanks Deev that helps a lot.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        I speak from personal experience. The h22 motor is a okay candidate for boost. But its not the frm sleeves that will mess up because of the postons under high pressure it is the ringlands that are too week for boost. The f22 is no slouch either they will easily faily just as quick as the h22's ringlands underboost and thats a fact.

                        I would stick to allmotor applications until the motor is built. And thats with low-boost high boost before it was built. After it was built there is still no guarantee just make sure you build with the right parts with the right builder tune and then..... pray lol. And this is coming from the person who has owned their car not their boy. I hate hearing my boy,boy, boy ohh boy it just goes to show how many people actually work on their own cars and do work instead of watching everyone else the scene must really be dying out.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          I don't know why everyone suggest calling bisimoto. Does everyone on this forum live by him? ....or just swing from his nuts?

                          If you boost an H, you better be ready to run 93 only on a small turbo with low boost, or you could manage E85 and a slightly larger turbo. either way you better be ready to watch intake/exhaust temps and use minimum timing for best torque. If you want a lot of miles out of it, tune on 91, then only use 93.

                          If people learned how to do the math in this document: http://www.stealth316.com/misc/grape...bochargers.pdf and also learn how to read turbo graphs, there wouldnt be any problems.

                          The other thing is people expect too much from an engine. Yea you can make stupid power on them, but for how long? check it out people: http://www.sdsefi.com/meltdown.htm

                          If you can't make 220whp out of a boosted H/F without blowing it up on stock gear you did something wrong.

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by MortsAccord View Post
                            I don't know why everyone suggest calling bisimoto. Does everyone on this forum live by him? ....or just swing from his nuts?
                            Not everyone!
                            MR Thread
                            GhostAccord 2.4L Blog

                            by Chappy, on Flickr

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by GhostAccord View Post
                              Not everyone!
                              x3

                              J. mills here in nc has a project h2b that he work and tuned first it was N/A made right at or over 250whp ran a 11.6 @ 117mph

                              Stock Bottom end
                              B16b trans
                              RLZ port work
                              Skunk2 Pro 1 cams
                              Supertech valve springs and retainers
                              Skunk2 Pro series intake manifold
                              Blox 72mm throttle body
                              Precision 525cc injectors
                              Custom J.Mills Tuning 4 inch to 3 inch intake
                              RMF header
                              Tuned on e85 and ectune

                              Recently for the upcoming season they decided to boost it (remember blocks stock was in the car running before the project and then a full season so its seen it fair share of beatings) changed a few things BRMS manifold, Boostfab charge piping and up pipe etc.. it made 398whp 280tq at 10psi they said it was to easy welp then tried for more made 420whp and went boom stock bottom end held up to quite the abuse, but J. mills is a top notch tuner and that helps more than most think.

                              People just expect to much, but good decent power can be made on a good healthy block.
                              Last edited by SOHC-FTW; 04-10-2012, 06:03 PM.

                              02 Crv
                              02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
                              92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
                              Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by MortsAccord View Post
                                I don't know why everyone suggest calling bisimoto. Does everyone on this forum live by him? ....or just swing from his nuts?

                                If you boost an H, you better be ready to run 93 only on a small turbo with low boost, or you could manage E85 and a slightly larger turbo. either way you better be ready to watch intake/exhaust temps and use minimum timing for best torque. If you want a lot of miles out of it, tune on 91, then only use 93.

                                If people learned how to do the math in this document: http://www.stealth316.com/misc/grape...bochargers.pdf and also learn how to read turbo graphs, there wouldnt be any problems.

                                The other thing is people expect too much from an engine. Yea you can make stupid power on them, but for how long? check it out people: http://www.sdsefi.com/meltdown.htm

                                If you can't make 220whp out of a boosted H/F without blowing it up on stock gear you did something wrong.
                                Anyone who can think for themselves can go with any company they want. Bisimoto did most of the thinking for the H/F series, and they cater to members of this community. Since my experience with this community suggests that most people are incapable of thinking for themselves, I merely direct them to Bisimoto.

                                The ringlands on the stock pistons of any H or F series engine are weak when boosted. They WILL break. High boost, low boost, poorly tuned, properly tuned... THEY WILL BREAK. The older these engines get, and the more worn they become, the sooner they will break.

                                If you boost a stock H or F series, expect to blow it up. Period.
                                If it blows up, you're damn right you did something wrong. You boosted on stock internals!






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