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Old 01-20-2020, 01:18 PM   #1
CyborgGT
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CyborgGT : 1993 Accord EX wagon



'93 Honda Accord Aero R
(EX, but shhh…)


Mods:
*Parts in gray are owned but not yet installed


ENGINE:
- JDM H22A (closed deck), all motor, goal of 245 whp/200 lb-ft

- K&N Apollo intake system for 70mm pipe
- AEM 70mm OD aluminum tubing for custom intake
- DEI gold heat tape 2"x30'
- Professional Products 68mm Power throttle body for ITR, polished
- H22 Euro-R/Type-R intake manifold prepped by Rosko Racing (68mm port match)
- Bisimoto thermal intake manifold gasket

- Walbro 255lph pump w/install kit
- Rosko Racing rail
- Acura RDX 410cc OE injectors & pigtails
- AEM pressure regulator

- Ishino/Stone (OEM) top-end gasket set
- Fel-pro MLS head gasket
- ARP head studs
- New OEM '97-'01 lost motion assemblies
- Supertech machine hardened valve locks
- Supertech titanium spring retainers
- Supertech 79lb valve springs
- Supertech valve seals
- Supertech valve guides (Manganese Bronze intake, copper alloy exhaust)
- Supertech black nitrided dish valves
- New OEM valve spring seats
- Skunk2 Pro 2 cams
- Skunk2 Pro Black Series cam gears
- OEM manual timing tensioner conversion kit
- Skunk2 cam seal
- Skunk2 "Skunk2 Inside" VTEC solenoid cover

- Fel-Pro complete bottom-end gasket set
- balance shaft seal retainer
- manual timing belt tensioner conversion
- Wiseco 11.5:1 pistons (re-sleeve, of course; one of my stock bores was scratched)
- Eagle H-beam rods
- ARP main studs
- ATI street damper
- K-Tuned oil pressure sensor adapter (to 'T' in oil psi gauge)
- S2000 oil filter (part no. 15400-PCX-004)
- OEM block heater (part no. 08T44-SV4-100)
- Skunk2 magnetic drain plugs

- PLM HyTech knock-off 4-2-1 header
- Spoon Sports header primaries (thanks, Ronald_Type-R! - needs 2.5" downpipe)
- Vibrant 1197 EGT bung, stainless
- Vibrant 10355 merge collector, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 60804 "turbo" flex pipe, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 1194A O2 sensor bung x2, stainless
- Vibrant U-J scrap bends, stainless 2.5"
- Summit Racing 4' scrap straight, stainless 2.5"
- Catco 6906 cat, stainless 2.5"
- Vibrant 2.5" bottle resonator & 2.5" Ultra Quiet resonator - will experiment with both for sound
- Summit Racing 2.5" V-band connections x3
- Vibrant 2630 2.5"-to-3" transition (exhaust expands to 3" just before the first 90* bend to keep flow up)
- Kteller 3" stainless/mandrel piping
- Vibrant Street Power muffler, 3" in/dual 3.5" out



TRANSMISSION:
- Manual conversion
- MTEC Industries shift springs
- Valex Racing stainless clutch line
- Exedy Racing Stage 1 clutch
- Competition Clutch 11.56 lb flywheel



CHASSIS:
- Explicit Speed engine mounts w/low-profile rear bracket
- Explicit Speed traction bar

- Fat Four Customs rear LCAs & toe arms


EXTERIOR:
- '92-'93 JDM one-piece headlights w/TSX projector retrofit
- no-name black mesh grille
- Spoon-style front lip
- JDM power folding mirrors
- '92-'93 USDM sedan slim[mer] side moldings

- '05-'10 Odyssey rear wiper assembly
- JDM DC2R red "H" for tailgate (thanks, tommi!)
- '98-'02 "Accord" emblem
- Custom 3D printed "Aero R" emblems (thanks, Cody Casale!)



INTERIOR:
- DIY glovebox gauge cluster: AEM wideband O2, exhaust temp, oil pressure, & fuel pressure
- Skunk2 440 gram shift knob
- Circuit Hero shift extender
- JDM DC2 Integra Type R shift boot





Plans:

- "Jack of all trades" - a canyon carver with mild power that's still comfortable enough inside for long drives
- Make it my own, build it with quality and attention to detail
- Drive the hell out of it




WTB:

If you have any of these parts you’re looking to sell, PM me, I’m seriously interested

- ’92-’93 JDM (not USDM) fog lights; at the very least brackets and lenses. I have the ’90-’91 USDM switch and full harness that I assume I can make work.
- OEM DC2-R Momo SRS steering wheel in great condition
- JDM sedan slim side moldings (unless I DIY my own first)
- Sigma side skirts




Progress Log:
- 10.x.2012 // pulled H22 from sedan, junked sedan, began taking my sweet ass time collecting parts for the H22
- 1.18.2020 // 286,808 mi // Purchased the wagon
- 2.16.2020 // '05-'10 Odyssey rear wiper (pg. 2)
- 2.16.2020 // Retrofitted one-piece headlights restoration (pg. 2), final install (pg. 3)
- 2.22.2020 // DIY glove box gauge cluster (pg. 2)
- 3.15.2020 // Spoon style lip(pg. 3)
- 3.29.2020 // Fat Four Customs rear lower arms (pg. 3)
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Last edited by CyborgGT; 03-31-2020 at 08:19 AM.
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:18 PM   #2
CyborgGT
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But First, A Bit of History…
Since I never made a thread for my old CB

My first-ever car was a ’92 LX automatic in Cobalt Blue Pearl with grey interior.



In the four years I had with the sedan, it was crashed and repaired…





I met some of you in person and enjoyed a few cruises…



thanks to the information in this place, and of course a formal education in automotive tech before even owning a car, I was able to H-swap it myself over a weekend…





and I did a few things to personalize the car…







After the engine swap, the car ran without a hitch for about a year before, in the Fall of 2012, it began to suffer an intermittent electrical problem - which in hindsight was probably down to my noob attempt at tucking the wiring in the engine bay. I could never get the problem to repeat itself in the driveway, so I set my sights on the future by pulling the engine, sending a beautifully rust-free body to the junkyard (yes, I’m still kicking myself over that, even after wanting a wagon instead), and began collecting parts for a power build, knowing that one day I’d get back into the CB chassis that I had grown to love.

In the meantime, I got an RSX to serve as the reliable daily driver.



I was hoping to keep it stock to focus funds on the H build, but we all know how that goes… the DC5 is such a great chassis!



Needless to say, this affected my H22’s progress in a big way. Just over seven years after the sedan’s engine was finally pulled and torn down, it’s only just now nearing a return to life.



During those off-years, there were a couple people that helped me out with parts I am proud and thankful to own.

First, our own KeeleDesign made me this absolutely badass “stealth” valve cover. I attempted it myself and it came out a bit rough. I only bothered shaving the “DOHC VTEC” lettering, but Brandon took it to that next level by not only fixing my screw-ups but removing the cam gear cover (I do love watching mechanical things at work), shaving the ridge that runs along the back half, filling in the RHD throttle cable bracket holes, and laying down a proper satin black. I wanted the H left on the spark plug cover because I’m a big fan of Honda’s heritage. This valve cover probably won’t see much street use just so I can protect that timing belt, but you can be sure I’ll be swapping it on for special occasions and when I start taking the wagon to shows. Thanks again for the time and effort you put into this, Brandon! A little part of the CB7Tuner community is the centerpiece of my engine bay.



The piece I am most proud of is a design of my own imagination. It's something I thought up not long after getting rid of the sedan and only more recently, by chance, came across someone who could help make it happen. As heavily modified as the wagon will be, I wanted to give it my own one-off name. Inspired by the Accord Type R and Euro R, and the badging of the CB wagon as "Aero Deck" in other parts of the world, I came up with a new trim level I call the "Aero R,” using the design and font of the CL7 badge as a base. We went back and forth over e-mail, critiquing the concept in 2D, and then in 3D, before a pair of physical emblems was finally created through the brilliant innovation of 3D printing. I still need to get it chromed and painted to match the look of the Euro R badge, but with my eye for detail I’m glad to be overseeing that myself. Thanks and credit go to Cody Casale at ClubRSX and of Casale Design (his Instagram) for pulling this out of my head and making it real. As a cool sidebar, this guy made the fenders on Big Mike’s Prelude in its third, Martini-liveried iteration; as well as the body work for that wide-body RyWire/Mugen S2000 that was at SEMA 2017. Seriously talented guy. Maybe one day I’ll be able to have these remade in metal. Teamed up with the ’98-’02 Accord emblem and DC2R red H (thanks, tommi!):



I decided that the completion of the engine parts collection was the right time to go shopping for a wagon. At this point, I still have to get the block and head machined (hopefully this step doesn’t take too long), and then assemble & install the engine before putting the car on a dyno for a tune.



Apologies for the cheesiness, but as long as I’ve been on this forum a lot of you guys here have helped and inspired me in different ways as well. Too many to remember, let alone list - sadly, many have moved on - but know that I do appreciate you all. Seven years is a long time to stay interested in something you don’t own and so can’t personally enjoy, but there was honestly never a point where I wasn’t excited to see things through to my ultimate vision for this build.


Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-09-2020 at 05:26 AM.
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:19 PM   #3
CyborgGT
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Day One / “0 miles”


The Canvas…

- 1993 EX wagon, automatic
- Purchased on 1.18.20 in Florence, Colorado
- 286,808.8 miles as I was leaving the town of purchase
- YR-94M-3 Seattle Silver Metallic / Type D maroon interior


I don’t believe I “settled” for this car, as it’s still very much what I was looking for despite the obvious issues you'll see below, but I will admit to getting impatient waiting for a more exact ‘right car’ to pop up for sale. It met my three big requirements, though: it has a D-pillar, has no quarter panel rust, and the chassis is straight (the hood/lights/grille line up perfectly, etc). This is the ad I responded to, from a small town three hours south of where I live.



Character Flaws…

There are several small issues with the car, but nothing the junkyard or plans that were already made won’t fix.


Peep the power steering leak ^

Unfortunately, the seller had already warmed the car up before I got there, so I couldn’t see or hear the effects of a cold start before buying, but he was confident it would make the drive back north just fine, which it did. Although I will say that with as much as I’ve gotten used to my base auto RSX, I had a hard time believing a car could be even more gutless. Here’s a cold start, with some light revs, the next day. It just shat all over the brand new concrete. Of course, the engine it came with hardly matters, considering what's replacing it.



The obvious problems here being the missing window, the misalignment of the corner light & bumper, and the mismatched mirror. The window motor is still whirring away, but I’ll grab the glass and track from a junkyard - is everything related to the doors the same, sedan vs wagon? Peeking through the gaps around the corner light, it looks like every tab on it is broken and it was poorly glued in place, which explains the spacing. I’ve already got one-piece lights anyway. The bumper clips are a common wear item, and this corner wasn’t even sitting on the bolt head in there. The seller sounded unsure about the mirror; he’s flipped a lot of CBs, this one had been sitting for months, and he couldn’t remember whether this car came with a mirror delete plate on that side. Being a ’93 and an EX, I’m going to guess there was originally a mirror on this side. Either way, I’ve got power folding mirrors in storage.

Less obvious is the front window. On both sides, it stops at that exact position, when I seem to remember my sedan’s windows going all the way down. Both make a metallic ‘clack’ when they bottom out. The trim piece in the middle of the door is also crushed in a bit, but the door panel itself feels straight. The paint is definitely faded on the hood and roof, and a few small dings are scattered around the car. The faded wheels will be dedicated to winter duty and probably powder coated white.



I think the rear bumper might have been hit, as there’s a slight upward bulge on the passenger side where that black spot is under the taillight, but it doesn’t seem to have affected anything else. The red and white mess on the back window was from the stickers I scraped off; the previous owner to the seller was a pastor.



The car does seem to have come with the original, OEM keyless entry fob, but the buttons are broken. Is that exact key fob replaceable and programmable? Anyone know the part number? Keyless entry for 1993 is cool to me, so I’d love to restore it. I suppose I could go aftermarket and do the rear door handle swap for the fronts, since I can still mechanically get in the car through the tailgate. Any ‘90s Honda needs the security of those lock cylinders being gone.



The interior is slightly disgusting - I really don’t get how people could put a car on the market without cleaning it first when the buyer is going to see you face-to-face - but it does look like a good cleaning is all it needs. Except for a few insignificant pieces, it’s all in great shape. The maroon is not as bad as I’d always thought it would be, even if it’s a bit monotonous. The long-term plan is full custom reupholstery anyway. I’m debating an SE dash, but since there’s no way of actually testing whether that airbag will deploy properly, maybe not. Rust under the spare tire was something I thought to check before buying; there is none, just some oil from the old distributor that was in a bag back there. Is the sunroof glass interchangeable with the sedan? Mine's cracked.






A very nice discovery on day two was a stack of maintenance records and a couple dealership items (the tag with the blue string is about cruise control operation) stashed in one of the side compartments. The car was originally bought at Honda World in Peoria, Illinois, and it’s still got the cool little dealer emblem from the period. The work reports are all ten-plus years old, but there was a lot done. The engine's probably on its way out, but the important part (to me), the chassis, feels great in town and on the freeway.


*Edit: I had a couple freezing, snowy days, and went through it all. It's boring stuff, but as long as I'm using this thread to document the car's history...

Quote:
8/11/1997 @ 83,925 miles
- new tires & alignment check [one wheel was slightly off on toe, but it doesn't say if alignment was corrected]

7/15/1998 @ 97,638 miles
"90,000 mile service checklist" was done at Honda dealership:
- oil & filter checked okay
- transmission fluid changed
- brake fluid changed
- fluid levels [randoms topped off? repair was checked as completed]
- tire pressure check & rotation
- exhaust system checked okay
- a couple light bulbs were replaced
- washers & wipers checked okay
- front pads & rotors declared to have 7-10k miles left on them
- rear brake caliper pins were lubed, pads & rotors were replaced
- parking brake checked okay
- brake lines & fittings checked okay
- valves adjusted
- suspension checked okay
- steering checked okay
- timing & accessory belts replaced
- coolant replaced
- air filter replaced
- fuel filter replaced
- fuel lines & connections checked okay
- PCV valve checked okay
- spark plugs
- distributor replaced
- timing set
- water pump replaced
- idle speed checked okay
- EGR valve checked okay


5/30/1999 @ 113,612 miles
- looks like the car was taken in for a flat tire but it was unrepairable and replaced.

9/11/1999 @ 118,000 miles
- new tires & alignment check

7/6/2006
- new timing belt
- new cam & crank seal
- spark plugs
- axles
- water pump
- fuel pump
- change trans fluid
- change oil


10/5/2006
- "new rear brakes & rotors turned"

1/23/2007
- oil pan gasket
- valve cover gasket
- oil filter o-ring
- front struts
- front springs
- oil filter
- alignment check


4/9/2007
- "R&R bushings"

10/29/2008 @ 201,227 miles
- two oxygen sensors
- brake pads
- motor mount


8/1/2009
Checker Auto Parts receipt
- water pump


8/25/2009
- radiator cap

11/6/2009
- MRB 86-2148D boot kit

11/6/2009
- New front strut assemblies, 171875ST Quick-Strut

11/7/2009
- GSP front passenger CV axle, NCV36502

12/20/2009
Checker Auto Parts receipt
- distributor cap
- distributor rotor
- spark plugs
- spark plug wires
- air filter
- fuel filter


12/27/2009
Advance Auto Parts receipt
- pair of light bulbs


12/30/2009
- starter

1/25/10
- Fel-Pro water outlet gasket, 35062
- Gates timing belt, T186


4/2/2010 @ 212,653 miles
- "Customer comment: 1) Get vehicle running. Someone else has been working on vehicle, not sure what is wrong. 2) Check cruise control.
- "Checked vehicle, found front crankshaft pulley falling off. Had to clean up keyway for crank pulley. Also had burrs on crankshaft, filed down. Re-installed crank pulley and installed bolt wth Locktite. Re-installed front engine belts. Charged battery and got vehicle running. Engine does have internal noises or external acc. bearing noises.
- "Perform functional tests on cruise control. Checked powers and grounds, okay.
- "Test drove vehicle and cruise is working fine."


4/23/2010 @ 212,851 miles
- "Remove and replaced valve cover gasket and plug tube seals."
- "Removed and replaced spark plugs, wires, ignition cap, and rotor."
- "Checked vehicle for vibration. Re-center engine mounts. Checked mechanical rear mount, it is working but loose. Seems like most of the vibration is from the balance shaft belt."


10/7/2010 @ 216,741 miles
- [winter tires were swapped onto rims?]

10/12/2010
Not sure what this one is:
- APS 6609
- APSCO PUMP/RACK


10/14/2010 @ 216,997 miles
- "multi point inspection," looks like an oil & filter change was done. There's a full inspection checklist - it's signed but isn't filled out.



A LOT is going to change between now and the start of Summer… and you can let that eyebrow sag back down because this is not going to drag on for eons like my engine build thread. This is happening now. My credit report hasn’t seen action in years, aside from not missing any normal bill payments to keep it respectable, and I’m working on getting that score as high as possible for that house purchase one day, so I decided that being able to enjoy this project now rather than later was worth paying the interest, and took out a decent loan that I know I can pay off in two years as long as I’ve got that pressure to make payments (and not rack up too much interest!). So depending on backup at the machine shops, since the head and block are both getting work done, very soon this car will be receiving an all-motor H22 that should be pushing about 240 whp, a manual transmission swap, upgraded suspension, wheels, and several parts I kept from my old sedan & have collected since. All of this to put the wagon at a ‘solid resting point’ as soon as possible so I can take my time improving it in little ways while saving up to go back to school. A bunch of parts are already on order…

Last edited by CyborgGT; 02-09-2020 at 05:27 AM.
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Old 01-20-2020, 01:36 PM   #4
djcaz_aom
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Very nice.
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Old 01-20-2020, 08:20 PM   #5
Grumpys93
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Looking forward to the progress. Congrats on getting back in the game!
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Old 01-20-2020, 08:41 PM   #6
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This is the content we deserve. I look forward to seeing this take shape.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:01 PM   #7
CyborgGT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Congrats on getting back in the game!
I was smiling literally all day that day. I'm probably more excited about this than should be normal. Too bad my work schedule sucks; I won't be able to take my head and block in for machine work until hopefully next Monday.

Also, Honda has discontinued the half shaft inner seal (pt# 1262-SH3-000). I ordered all those pieces associated with that bearing for the manual conversion so it's all fresh, and now I don't know what I'm going to do there. Maybe the old one can be reused...
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:13 PM   #8
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There we go! You have your chassis now! I am glad you were able to make it happen so relatively soon! You are back in the game, not that you ever left IMO.
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Old 02-02-2020, 03:03 AM   #9
CyborgGT
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"It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas..."



A ton of stuff came in this week, tools and parts for the engine and trans swap, as well as some small cosmetic pieces. Notables:

- Exedy Stage 1 clutch
- Competition 11.56 lb flywheel
- MTEC shift springs
- block heater, so I can not worry about starting this thing up in winter
- '05-'10 Ody rear wiper arm (thanks, excalibur02, for the idea!)
- Valex clutch line
- newer spring-style lost motion assemblies
- balance shaft seal retainer, since my H22 didn't come with one
- S2000 oil filters
- EM1 VTEC-yo qp decals... I had to, haha

I didn't end up taking my head in to the machine shop last Monday because I started a full brake job on the RSX Sunday and of course that didn't go as smoothly as planned. Tomorrow, though (*edit - failed attempt #2, due to weather and the shop being an hour away; not worth the accident risk). I still need to find someone local to re-sleeve the block and make sure the crank is still straight; hopefully I can find a local business to support rather than shipping it out. One nice surprise is that at the junkyard I found the "Type R style" black mesh grille I'd been planning on ordering, for just $5. Not even so much as a crack in it, either. The grille in the shots of my old sedan was a DIY using the stock grille; I'll probably do that again to retain the H, but later. Otherwise I've just been working on fixing the little cosmetic issues with the car, installing the parts from/since my sedan so they're not taking up space in my storage unit, and in the morning I'll be headed back to the junkyard for that missing window. Hopefully I can score some other OEM 'upgrades' there as well. I'll get photos once it's all done. The manual transmission itself might be awhile. I'm trying to hold out for at least a Prelude H23 trans, since those and the H22 models do appear every once in a long while. Interestingly, I did spot a fifth-gen Prelude at the 'yard with an F23 block and P13 head... unfortunately it had an Accord transmission in it.

I think my plan with this is to do the trans swap on the F22 first, make sure that's running smoothly, and then swap in the H. That way if I hit an electrical problem or something it'll be easier to narrow down.
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Old 02-08-2020, 05:00 PM   #10
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Working on refinishing the turn signals today. The bottom one was only attacked with a headlight restoration kit, with 1500/3200/4000 grit sanding discs and polish. For the one on top I went even rougher, starting with 600 grit and stepping it up toward 4000 and polish. There's still some pitting, but it's looking pretty damn good if I do say so myself. Now that that's boosted my confidence in this kind of job, the headlights will be refinished as well. I've got some 3M clear protective film on the way to prevent future damage from rock chips and other dulling.

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Old 02-09-2020, 04:56 AM   #11
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Here's something annoying. I've kept a running list, with dates and prices, of pretty much everything I've bought for the CB since I had the sedan, everything I bought for the H22 when I originally swapped it, and up until now. I figured that since my belts have been sitting for seven years, even though they only got a year and a half of use from new when I still had that car, it's probably a good idea to replace them...

OEM H22 timing belt, part number 14400-P13-014: $50.53 in October of 2010, $67.98 today.
OEM H/F balancer belt, part number 13405-PT0004: $32.57 in October of 2010, $55.31 today.

Granted, these are Majestic prices, not Honda's list prices (which probably increased, too), but they're still coming in well under list. Purely adjusting for inflation, the difference should only be $9 and $6, respectively. Geez, if you haven't already, start investing in what OEM wear items you can still get before they're gone, be they mechanical wear or things in the car you touch frequently. The biggest reason it's a shame that these aren't popular enthusiast cars is the fact that we'll never see something like Nissan's heritage program where they started making old GT-R parts again.
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Old 02-09-2020, 07:54 AM   #12
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Yep I have noticed this as well. That is why with rockauto, anything I feel comfortable not using oem, I am stocking up on general maintenance items. But will for sure get more OEM parts that don't dry out.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:47 AM   #13
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Yeah, I've just been hooked on OEM parts thanks to my RSX. I've really tried to avoid aftermarket parts with that car unless it's been an "upgrade," and that's already started to carry over to the wagon. For the cost of that headlight repair kit, for example, I could have just about paid for new aftermarket turn signals off eBay (I'm still considering clears with a light smoke tint)... but they wouldn't have been Stanley originals. I see true classics at shows and it's cool when they have original parts on them. One day this car will be old, so I'll preserve what I can.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:52 AM   #14
Grumpys93
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Which kit did you go with? For restoration?
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Old 02-09-2020, 09:15 AM   #15
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reading through that maintenance records you found all I could think was the break downs the previous owner had on those days....
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:17 AM   #16
CyborgGT
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Yeah, there were some big orders in there!


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Which kit did you go with? For restoration?
For the lights? Rain-X, because it came with sanding discs for a drill (1500g, 3200g, & 4000g) and I'm lazy, haha. It was $20 or something like that. I had my own set of discs from another project that allowed me to get down to 600, though; got a couple multi-packs off eBay that had 600/800/1000/1200/1500.


And of course it's snowing again, delaying my going to Denver for the head work further. I checked the weather just last night and it said we were supposed to be clear, but now it's snowing and the forecasts are suddenly all saying snow today and tomorrow. I smacked a curb the other night going to work because of the ice pack, so I'm not risking something worse that far away from home. I should move to AZ, and be done with this weather.
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Old 02-09-2020, 04:23 PM   #17
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Here's something annoying. I've kept a running list, with dates and prices, of pretty much everything I've bought for the CB since I had the sedan, everything I bought for the H22 when I originally swapped it, and up until now. I figured that since my belts have been sitting for seven years, even though they only got a year and a half of use from new when I still had that car, it's probably a good idea to replace them...

OEM H22 timing belt, part number 14400-P13-014: $50.53 in October of 2010, $67.98 today.
OEM H/F balancer belt, part number 13405-PT0004: $32.57 in October of 2010, $55.31 today.

Granted, these are Majestic prices, not Honda's list prices (which probably increased, too), but they're still coming in well under list. Purely adjusting for inflation, the difference should only be $9 and $6, respectively. Geez, if you haven't already, start investing in what OEM wear items you can still get before they're gone, be they mechanical wear or things in the car you touch frequently. The biggest reason it's a shame that these aren't popular enthusiast cars is the fact that we'll never see something like Nissan's heritage program where they started making old GT-R parts again.
My brother-in-law has a 2007 Accord 4-cylinder. He's getting the dreaded P0420 code on his car and basically needs a new cat. The aftermarket cats he's tried (at large expense via a mechanic) wouldn't clear the code, so the only option is for him to go OEM. Two summers ago it was a $900 part from Honda. It's now a $1,900 part.

The bizarro thing, a 2006 Accord part is still just under $1,000. The 2007 specific cat is different :facepalm:
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:14 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by AccordWarrior View Post
My brother-in-law has a 2007 Accord 4-cylinder. He's getting the dreaded P0420 code on his car and basically needs a new cat. The aftermarket cats he's tried (at large expense via a mechanic) wouldn't clear the code, so the only option is for him to go OEM. Two summers ago it was a $900 part from Honda. It's now a $1,900 part.

The bizarro thing, a 2006 Accord part is still just under $1,000. The 2007 specific cat is different :facepalm:
Damn. I actually went aftermarket when I replaced the cat on the RSX this past October, with a Walker direct-fit. OEM wasn't worth it in that case, but the Walker cleared that same code for me. I did replace both oxygen sensors with OEM Densos at the same time just to be safe, though. Walker's donut gasket squeaks like hell, too (or could re-used spring bolts squeak?); I need to get back under there with an OEM to see if that helps. But my only real worry is that I hear aftermarket cats of any brand tend not to last more than a couple years.
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Old 02-10-2020, 11:12 AM   #19
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Can't wait to see what you do with this one man. Unfortunately you it's a pain to replace the batteries in the keys.

The parts car I picked up had all the original keys with it but to mate it with my car I would have had to switch the locks, including the ignition and the computer that controls it (it's that black box underneath the driver seat).

Hindsight...I should have done it since I only have one transmitter key left for mine but I didn't want to go through the hassle at the time.
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Old 02-10-2020, 10:52 PM   #20
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The buttons themselves are broken, that's my issue. I'm sure the batteries are dead, too, but I wouldn't even be able to find out. I was hoping it would be as simple as finding a good fob and programming it like you would with any modern car that has a fob separate from the key, since the key itself isn't coded to the ignition. As it is, I just picked up a couple standard Honda blanks that I need to get cut.

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