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CB7DX420 : 1990 Accord EX

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    #46
    You'll just need runners from an F22A6 or H23A1 (or an entire H23A1 manifold). There's no sense in getting an F2H adapter.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #47
      Lucien - I get that, but Im okay with it. If it gets insane I'll dynamat the cabin and by the cruise thing I mean cut and modify the NRG wheel to hold the old cruise control settings, the buttons to set cruise off the oem wheel.

      Jarrett - on evolutions site they show gains from an h22 manifold and they looked great so I'd rather stick with the oem h22 manifold w/adapter for that reason and because I already have the OBD1 H22 manifold w/70mm TB
      If the cops weren't overbearing I'd have a skunk2 H22 IM, but they are so I wanted the best possible oem manifold.
      Last edited by CB7DX420; 11-13-2014, 07:10 PM.

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        #48
        Originally posted by CB7DX420 View Post
        Lucien - I get that, but Im okay with it. If it gets insane I'll dynamat the cabin and by the cruise thing I mean cut and modify the NRG wheel to hold the old cruise control settings, the buttons to set cruise off the oem wheel.

        Jarrett - on evolutions site they show gains from an h22 manifold and they looked great so I'd rather stick with the oem h22 manifold w/adapter for that reason and because I already have the OBD1 H22 manifold w/70mm TB
        If the cops weren't overbearing I'd have a skunk2 H22 IM, but they are so I wanted the best possible oem manifold.
        Your steering wheel has a cruise button on it? Huh.

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          #49
          You're misinformed. The upper plenum from the H22A is the exact same as the upper plenum from the H23A1. Same part number, even. The lower runners on an H22A and an F22A6 are only different in terms of the bolt pattern to attach it to the cylinder head and the way the thermostat housing mounts. The H23A1 runners are nearly identical to the F22A6 with the only exception being a slight 0.5" difference in runner length. What you want is either F22A6 or H23A1 runners, an IAB plate from an F22A6/H23A1/H22A and a plenum from an H23A1/H22A. For your throttle body I recommend sticking with a smaller OEM H23A1/H22A unit. Going bigger will only hurt performance on a mild F22A build until you get a camshaft and add compression. You'll also need a black box that bolts to the runners in order to control the IAB solenoid and the appropriate ECU to send the signal to the black box. The PT6 ECU from a '92'-93 Accord EX or '91 and '93 SE would be best given that you want to upgrade your camshaft later.

          Bottom line is that if there's a place telling you that there is an OEM H22A manifold that is a more powerful option that makes more sense than doing it the way I suggested, they're either full of crap or they're talking about the Accord Euro R/H22A7 intake manifold. That is usually around $350 for the manifold itself.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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            #50
            Jarrett - Okay, I was told a usdm h22 plenum outperformed the h23.
            I suppose I can just grab an A6 runner from a junkyard to put under the h22 plenum, but I'll probably gut the IAB tho since a P06 won't work it.
            Also as stated above, Ill be using an F23 block (higher CR) as well as a Bisi stage 2 cam. So I'm content with the 70mm TB since I already own it and didn't cost me anything, it was on the manifold I bought out of the wreck yard.
            Here's the site link, they don't disclose what h22 manifold they used..
            http://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/p5502.html


            Lucien - yeah, you know the set cruise and deceleration acceleration buttons? They're on a massive block attached to the oem wheel and I have to make that fit on the NRG woodgrain wheel, since I have to make it fit I called it a retrofit, might of used that word wrong? Idk I'm no human dictionary lol
            Last edited by CB7DX420; 11-13-2014, 09:35 PM.

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              #51
              Originally posted by CB7DX420 View Post

              Lucien - yeah, you know the set cruise and deceleration acceleration buttons? They're on a massive block attached to the oem wheel and I have to make that fit on the NRG woodgrain wheel, since I have to make it fit I called it a retrofit, might of used that word wrong? Idk I'm no human dictionary lol
              Ah, ok. My steering wheel didn't have those.

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                #52
                Originally posted by CB7DX420 View Post
                Jarrett - Okay, I was told a usdm h22 plenum outperformed the h23.
                I suppose I can just grab an A6 runner from a junkyard to put under the h22 plenum, but I'll probably gut the IAB tho since a P06 won't work it.
                Also as stated above, Ill be using an F23 block (higher CR) as well as a Bisi stage 2 cam. So I'm content with the 70mm TB since I already own it and didn't cost me anything, it was on the manifold I bought out of the wreck yard.
                Here's the site link, they don't disclose what h22 manifold they used..
                http://www.swapshopracing.com/contents/en-us/p5502.html
                Wow. That claim even beat Bisi's exaggerated 27 whp he claimed that his header gave. I'm impressed. Not with their fake gains but with the size of their balls to basically call their potential customers idiots and still expect them to spend money. Stay away from that if your purpose is anything other than a Skunk2 or Euro R manifold on the F22A/H23A1.
                My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                Comment


                  #53
                  Jarrett - thanks man, I appreciate the info I would've wasted an extra 200 on that adapter instead I can buy an A6 runner for 20 bucks lol, I guess I was enough of a sucker to think they were advertising accurate gains. Guess that's the name of the aftermarket game.

                  I wish I could do a skunk2 IM, but the local PD's hate Hondas, but that's because of the smartmouth kids that give em a bad wrap around here.

                  If I ever got a hold of a Euro r plenum could I use it with a6 runners or is that not doable? Or better yet, is that any better than a USDM H22 plenum on A6 runners?
                  I know the euro r is obd2, but that's easily fixable, and that's my extent of Euro r knowledge lol


                  Lucien - oh really? Do u have cruise?

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by CB7DX420 View Post


                    Lucien - oh really? Do u have cruise?
                    I did, but i removed the system. I'll have to take a look at my old wheel. lol

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Oh ok I got ya.

                      I like having cruise control for space cruises and what not, so I wanted to keep it but I love wood grain wheels so I'm gonna try and make it work out to have both.

                      Same thing kinda goes with my choice to go N/A, I wanted to keep my AC & PS so boost was gonna be hard to achieve, so the easiest route was to stick N/A, and I didn't want VTEC so I decided to do the f23/f22a setup, so like the wheel I'm trying to achieve all of my wants, power,simplicity, & functionality.

                      I hope to keep this CB for years and years to come. Which is a foreign concept to me lol I've had 30something cars since 15yrs old (all under 1500 or traded for) trying to find the right car, my EF was close, but the CB7 IS the cigar

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                        #56
                        There is no difference between the plenums of the USDM H22A1/H23A1 or JDM F22B DOHC/H22A/H23A in terms of OBD1 applications. It's all the same thing. OBD2 plenums deleted the Air Boost Valve, but that's it.

                        The Euro R manifold is a one-piece manifold so it doesn't have runners and a plenum that separate.
                        My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Okay that's helpful. I've never seen a Euro r so I was in the dark with it.

                          Since its a one piece and costs roughly the same as the skunk2, which one would perform better with my theoretical setup?

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                            #58
                            Well its happened, it snowed.

                            So she's back on stock wheels with snow tires, still lowered though I wasn't gonna fight adjusting the coils since I had enough ground clearance where she's set.

                            Still collecting parts, I hope to score a wagon bumper w/fogs, one piece headlights, and a G.square rep. Grill, but that's all in good time since they're all sought after or rare bits.

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                              #59
                              So, it's a new year and I'm still in school for welding. That means I'm getting a sweet $3,889 on january 22nd.

                              After MUCH consideration, and criticism from my family, I've decided to snap and build a new motor!
                              The F22A4 has been giving me a lot of problems lately, especially in the cold, so i figured nows as good a time as ever to swap it out.

                              So what am I building? well, im going for the F23A/F22A hybrid.
                              As some might remember, I have an F23a1 USDM block sitting in my shed, but from sitting so damn long the rings stuck. My dad got em free, used oil or trans. fluid or something in the cylinders for a day, but now shes only reading 140psi across the board give or take a psi or two, not to mention the block has 186K on it. So i decided to save it for my brothers build and get a JDM F23A.
                              I also had an M2S4 laying around, i sold that. A guy at a raging party offered me $800 so I took it. I was using that for a T2W4 or M2B4, but as im sure many of you know, life happens. that money got spent fixing pipes and roofing with the snow we got.
                              So I guess you could say I'm starting from square one on this.

                              Here's a break down of what the build will consist of:

                              - JDM F23A block
                              - single row pulley, PS delete
                              - F22A6 head
                              - clean up In. & PnP Ex. & gasket match In./Ex.
                              - WEB 148E+3 camshaft
                              - hybrid OEM manifold
                              - A6 runners, polished
                              - OBD1 H22 plenum, polished
                              - 64mm TB, tapered to plenum
                              - Bosch 4-hole H22A4 injectors
                              - M2 H23 header
                              - Vibrant 2.5" collector
                              - 2.5" mandrel catless exhaust
                              -M2S4 transmission
                              - Exedy OEM clutch.

                              you'll notice, some of these aren't the best options, like the trans. & IM, but they're being bought now to help my brother with his build during the summer, at which time I will be sitting on another $3,889 that will be spent on a second stage build that will consist of:

                              - mill .045" on mild PnP'd A6 head
                              - fresh water pump, timing components, & KS oil pump w/bal. elim.
                              - fresh ACL bearings, Hastings rings, & MLS gaskets where applicable
                              - RoskoRacing runner mod on A6 runners & Rosko H22 custom plenum
                              - Skunk2 66mm TB, matched to plenum by RoskoRacing
                              - RDX injectors & all necessary clips,lines, & rail.
                              - custom fit Password:JDM PowerChamber Kevlar intake
                              - Bisi header w/custom V-band downpipe & 3" exhaust
                              - M2B4 or T2W4 transmission, Fidanza flywheel & Exedy/CC stage 1 clutch
                              - ShaySpec solid bushings everywhere i can put em'

                              At this point, I'm modestly expecting around 210whp 190wtq, but from watching Accorn's MRT I think I could see A LOT more.

                              After all that My finances are reduced to $2,450. So with that one, I'm either going to have it resprayed R-74P and get another set of wheels or pick up a clean coupe I can swap everything over to, and then fix the old F22A4's issues and drop it back in and sell the R-74P sedan for a mean profit.

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                                #60
                                hey all. I've been gone all term, and as everyone knows, life happens. So sadly I lost money to the state, and bought more toys, this time a 01 kx125 lol, and the f23/f22 never happened. I did drop her a lot more tho, fisting my wheel well wasn't very "stylin", I'm down to a 2 finger gap and gonna go lower, I'll get some pics up soon.

                                For the future.....
                                This fall I go back to the welding program, should be $3200, but I won't hold my breath lol if I do end up with what they quoted me I hope to;
                                slap together a basic f23/f22/web cam build with an m2b4
                                redo all my bushings and new balljoints and tie rods all around
                                And finish it all up with some home done re-paint work and fine details/bits

                                I intend on this steering/suspension clean up because I recently discovered there's A LOT of auto-x racing out here open to the public! so I plan to use the big ol girl for DD and auto-x



                                PS, anyone going to FormFest 15'?!?!?!

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