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Old 10-01-2008, 09:50 AM   #41
JDM_Certified
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how will a camber kit work on a 4" drop?
the negative and the positive...
...
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Old 10-01-2008, 01:03 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by JDM_Certified View Post
how will a camber kit work on a 4" drop?
the negative and the positive...
if you drop 4", you're gonna have negative camber. i dropped about 2", and i have about 2 degrees of negative camber in the fronts.
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Old 10-01-2008, 08:24 PM   #43
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thanks man. is the negative camber bad on a 4" drop? or is good?
am i able to fix the butterfly tire with the aftermarket camber kit without any problems? im really thinking about getting one soon thats why
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Old 10-02-2008, 12:57 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by JDM_Certified View Post
thanks man. is the negative camber bad on a 4" drop? or is good?
am i able to fix the butterfly tire with the aftermarket camber kit without any problems? im really thinking about getting one soon thats why
I think it would be good only if your car was a formula one race car, that you only run on a track.

I have no idea what a butterfly tire is.
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Old 10-02-2008, 08:37 AM   #45
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I think it would be good only if your car was a formula one race car, that you only run on a track.

I have no idea what a butterfly tire is.
will it be good for a daily driver too or just a track car?

butterfly tire = tire with bad camber.. (sorry about that)

so am i able to fix a tire with bad camber with an after market kit on a 4" drop without any problems? thanks to all in advance for the help
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Old 10-06-2008, 08:30 AM   #46
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Back from the dead.

It appears that my ingalls balljoint camber kit hits the inner fender well. Weird. My anchor type didnt do that.

I am honestly thinking of hammering the inner fender well up a tad, but in all honesty, it may hammer itself out with more exsessive dips.

As far as the upper control arms, do I have to tighten it at a certain position? Looks like it has a rubber piece on each end that flexes when the body raises and dips.

Any feedback would be appreciated.
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Old 07-22-2014, 03:03 AM   #47
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Originally Posted by 4CYLPOWER92 View Post
I
Here is the finished result.

I know it's a geriatric thread, but it's also been forever since I've visited CB7tuner.com.

Stumbled over this photo when researching front upper ball joint replacement. Has anyone given thought to what this adjustable upper joint does to the caster angle? As fitted in the photo it looks to me that it will reduce caster angle.

A change in lateral upper ball joint location (i.e. moved in or out) will affect camber by approximately (but very close to) 1° per 1cm of movement. This also holds true for moving the ball joint longitudinally, i.e. 1cm = 1° (near enough) change in caster angle.

It looks like the centre of the ball (which is what determines the joint geometry with respect to defining the steering axis, i.e. KPI in the lateral axis and caster in the longitudinal axis) has been moved forward by (very approximately as best as I can tell from the photo) 1cm to 2cm compared to the OE ball joint.

This will equate to a reduction in caster angle of 1° to 2° (or so-ish). If the joint were fitted the other way around so that the centre of the ball were to the rear of the original location (of the centre of the OE ball) rather than to the front of it, then caster angle would be increased (rather than decreased). The stock caster angle is (from possibly unreliable memory) around 2°, which isn't much to start with, and certainly not enough if reduced by the adjustable ball joint.

Orienting the ball joint to the rear (rather than toward the front) has the potential to increase caster angle to near double the stock angle (though just how much is highly dependant on what the caster angle happens to be at the desired camber angle, due to the eccentric nature of the adjustment, i.e. changes in camber will also create change in caster).

To put this in some perspective, one of the more worthwhile changes I've made to my CB7 was to substantially increase the caster angle, to about 6°. This increases the 'trail' which improves 'on-centre' steering feel, as well as generating steered negative camber gain at the outside front wheel, which is quite beneficial in tighter corners (anytime significant steering angle is applied, so less so in faster bends, but still a 'Good Thing'). It also generates steered positive camber gain at the inside wheel, which is also 'Good', but less significant that at the (more heavily loaded) outside wheel.

One thing to keep in mind though is that any substantial change in caster angle also changes the height of the outer end of the tie-rod, which can cause bump steer and roll steer. After I increased my caster angle I had a degree of roll oversteer (turn-in, car initially turns predictably but then increasingly steers too much, so steering has to be backed off as the car approaches mid-corner). This is despite the chassis roll being minimal with this car. Increasing caster lowers the tie-rod end, so to address this problem I needed to also lower the steering rack.

Some food for thought...
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:18 AM   #48
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