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Old 01-14-2018, 02:15 AM   #1
alex_eats_rice
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Engine Rotates but No Start 92 cb9

My girlfriend Ashlyn purchased a 92 LX CB9 on November 22, 2017. It was running great until it started acting up on her.

I first noticed a slight misfire or buck on the freeway once in awhile (in 4th or 5th gear while cruising). Then it started dying randomly on us while driving the car but usually when it is in neutral not in gear/ low speeds.

We sold my girlfriend's 93 EX coupe (Dec. 29, 2017). That same day after selling it, We were driving coming to a red light. As I came close to a stop (in neutral) I notice the RPM's drop, & the engine dies. luckily it started back up and we got home.

On the 30th, she went to start the car and it started but then died. She started it again, ran for 20 seconds, then it died. Wouldn't start up again after that.. Go to the Parts store and get new Main Relay for $60. installed it, still wont turn on. Returned that Main Relay and put original one in.

Did more research, checked for spark at the spark plugs, there was none. Original Ignition Coil tested good, but replaced it because no spark. After replacing it started up but died 45 seconds later. Installed New Spark Plugs, Plug wires, Cap n Rotor, and tried again. It started up and died after 30 seconds. I replaced her Fuel Filter, it ran and drove fine for 3 days. We thought we had solved the problem.. sanded the T stat Ground with 120 Grit sandpaper real good, still nothing. Previous Owner replaced the Distributor recently, has receipts.

Battery seems very strong, cranks good but wont turn over. no codes when I put paper clip to check codes pop up just a solid Check Engine Light. I read that may mean bad ECU but it reads a solid CEL with the P12 as well as the PT3...

checked the fuses with my lil fuse tester, none of them light up solid they just flash once real quick then nothing...

To be clear I DO hear the Fuel Pump prime under the vehicle when I'm by the hatch, DO hear the audible click from the Main Relay down by the feet. Oil level normal.

Still nothing. I just changed the P12 ECU that I installed back to the stock pt3 ECU I believe it was, still no start.

Does anyone have any ideas? Comments and suggestions much appreciated.

My Mechanic friend and I are stumped.

It's a 92 LX 5 Speed F22a1 193,xxx miles
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Old 01-14-2018, 02:28 AM   #2
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Old 01-14-2018, 06:38 AM   #3
sonikaccord
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I'm willing to bet fuel pump. Throw a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and make sure it is within spec. About 37 psi IIRC.
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Old 01-14-2018, 08:49 AM   #4
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Was the distributor new or used? The Ignition Control Module (ICM) in the distributor can cause issues like this. My 90 recently acted like this, turned out to be the ECM, but you say you changed that as well. Do you have a service manual with wiring diagrams? You need to do some troubleshooting instead of throwing parts at it.
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Old 01-15-2018, 05:22 AM   #5
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Nice wagon!
I've got a chiltons book of knowledge if you need any diagrams out of it. Let me know and I'll send ya pics of what ya need
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Old 01-15-2018, 01:39 PM   #6
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No Start Issue Resolved: ICM fixed it.

New Ignition Control Module in the Distributor Fixed the problem.
I installed it without taking the Distributor off as to not mess with the timing. Wasn't that bad of a squeeze with the stock air intake tube off. Shoutout to fleetw00d for the suggestion. Big Thanks to you and the Forum y'all the real Heroes

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonikaccord View Post
I'm willing to bet fuel pump. Throw a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and make sure it is within spec. About 37 psi IIRC.
I can clearly hear an audible hum from the fuel pump when turned to the ACC position. From what I hear the Fuel Pump is functional.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Was the distributor new or used? The Ignition Control Module (ICM) in the distributor can cause issues like this. My 90 recently acted like this, turned out to be the ECM, but you say you changed that as well. Do you have a service manual with wiring diagrams? You need to do some troubleshooting instead of throwing parts at it.
The Distributor is remanufactured, has a Remanufacture # inside it. I replaced the Ignition Control Module with a new one and now the car starts no problems at all. The old ICM had a little bit of oil on it, looked like it may have gotten hot at some point. I made sure to use the Thermal grease that came with the ICM.

Old ICM




New ICM


Quote:
Originally Posted by chi View Post
Nice wagon!
I've got a chiltons book of knowledge if you need any diagrams out of it. Let me know and I'll send ya pics of what ya need
Thank you!! I have the same book I believe. It's very useful. Much appreciated.
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Old 01-16-2018, 03:21 PM   #7
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Inner seal on your distributor is bad. Replace that and youíre good, donít & youíre going to have to replace an oil soaked, burnt out igniter again.
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:19 PM   #8
alex_eats_rice
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Well the Cb9 won't start again.. ugh. Same symptoms, won't start, no spark.

It's-7 degrees outside and sucks to have to be wrenching on a car in this.

I assume the oil leak in the Distributor has again caused the ICM to fail.

About to just go buy a new Distributor or return this Remanufactured for a different one if I can.

Why couldn't the car wait till summer to break down
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Old 02-05-2018, 01:56 PM   #9
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You should consider getting a factory replacement, it appears the first one that failed you was aftermarket, as well as the on you replaced it with. I usually donít recommend aftermarket ignition parts. Good luck
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Old 02-05-2018, 05:23 PM   #10
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how tf you all get so smart
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Old 02-05-2018, 09:52 PM   #11
alex_eats_rice
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My local Honda dealer wants $414 for a OEM Distributor.. Lol

Not gonna pay that. We don't have pick n pulls in Alaska. We have Knick Wrecking yard in Wasilla that has some parts, but no Distributors.

Parts store wants $180 for one but who knows how long that would last..
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Old 02-05-2018, 10:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alex_eats_rice View Post
My local Honda dealer wants $414 for a OEM Distributor.. Lol

Not gonna pay that. We don't have pick n pulls in Alaska. We have Knick Wrecking yard in Wasilla that has some parts, but no Distributors.

Parts store wants $180 for one but who knows how long that would last..
You can get the OEM distributor housing for $148 from Majestic, another $100 for a OEM ICM. Transfer all your other stuff over.
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Old 02-06-2018, 11:46 PM   #13
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Or you could just replace the distributor o-ring and pop another aftermarket ICU into it until you have the money to get a Honda one should you ever want to. Fifty bucks for an ICU, couple bucks for the o-ring. Probably $60 tops. Make sure to lube the o-ring with silicone paste before installing.
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Old 02-07-2018, 12:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F22Chris View Post
Inner seal on your distributor is bad. Replace that and youíre good, donít & youíre going to have to replace an oil soaked, burnt out igniter again.
:/
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:38 PM   #15
alex_eats_rice
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Update

Found a used OEM Distributor for $125 60 miles away in Wasilla, AK. It even came with some blue performance spark plug wires.

Got home and swapped over newish Cap n Rotor and it started right up.

The old distributor had a mildly bad leak. Oil soaked and fried the Replacement ICM within 3 weeks.


Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!
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