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Old 07-15-2012, 06:28 PM   #1
Skulptr
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SUSP: Front caliper rebuild

I apologize ahead of time for any typos or errors, I'm doing this on my phone, and it has not been easy to do.

I have searched and didn't find any direct threads for a write up on rebuilding the front calipers. I did mine for 4 bucks a side I have searched and didn't find any direct threads for a write up on rebuilding the front calipers. I did mine for 4 bucks a side, have a friend discount at Napa.

I'm skipping straight to the caliper, as removal should be pretty ovbious for anyone that has worked on their brakes before, and if not its covered extensively under searching. The only thing I recommend is leaving the pad bracket attached to the car and just remove the caliper itself.

Here's the basic caliper.





First step is to get the piston out of the bore. Easiest way is with an air compressor. You can do it using the cars brake system, but its gonna make a mess, fair warning. Use a rag on the other side of the caliper, as when they come out, they fly. I got my finger between the piston and the caliper on my first caliper.



Piston out.



Then remove this seal. Just grab and pull.



And remove the inner seal, using a small flat head gently so you don't score the metal



On the new seal, this is the lip that seats on the piston, worry about that last



Next clean out the bore and clean off the piston. Use a small wire brush to remove any rust from around the seal lip on both the bore and piston. Once clean, using brake fluid as lubricant, put the square seal in the bore, and lubricate the piston.

Once that's done, push the piston through the seal, and have the bore end hanging off the back end of the piston.



Time to seat the seal in the bore. I did most of it by finger, but you can use a small flat head BETWEEN the bore and seal to help push it in places its not fully seated. Don't push on the seal itself cause you can puncture it.







Now you may get lucky when pushing the piston back in. On the drivers caliper I had to use a c clamp and small flat bar to push it in, and the other side went in by hand. Either way you do it, make sure it goes in square, or it will bind up and you'll have to blow it back out.



As it goes in, the piston seal will seat itself.



And the finished product. The seal should not stick out past the flat lip of the caliper. If it does, blow it out, and try again. If any side is sticking out, even a little, the seal didn't seat and it will either leak or fail under braking. That's why I recommend using the small screwdriver to go around the lip.







When putting things back together, make sure you have the washer between the brake line fitting and caliper. Also, clean the slide pins and give them a really good coating of high temp grease.





If someone can shed some light on which slide pin belongs where, I would greatly appreciate it. Both sides were in different locations, but considering the way they look, they must be location specific.

When its all put back together, bleed the front brakes. Before you bleed them, slide the calipers back and forth to make sure your slide pins move freely and aren't bent. I had a dragging issue, coating my wheels in dust in just a few days, this took about 25 minutes a side from start to finish, and fixed my issue completely.


got an update for everyone on the 2 slide pins. one is marked "G" on both sides, then the others are "L" and "R" respectively for each side. just match the "G" stamped bolt with the "G" stamped hole on the calipers. and remember, grease them up every time you take them out.

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Old 07-25-2012, 09:15 PM   #2
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Nice write up, but the pictures are huge. I wonder if this method works for the Corolla?
As for which pin goes where, match the pin G with the caliper that has G and the other side has L with L.
Here's a video that might help.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:27 PM   #3
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OP: Holy massive pics, you have a badass phone lol
Good write up to take the time doing that with messey hands Your calipers look to be in great condition too. mine were pitted on the piston a little and in the back of the bore, I cleaned the bore up good with brake cleaner and got all the sludge and crap out, took out the bleeder screw and cleaned/reamed out the passage thru it and the hole with little drill bits and greased the threads, and polished the piston with mothers polish, which broke up the varnish crap and brought it back to a mirror finish then cleaned it and the caliper with denatured alcohol to get rid of any petroleum residues, and flushed the system with D.A.. all the boots and o-rings were slathered in synthetic brake grease;wire wheeled the notch where the boot seats etc etc. Feels good knowing you did that shit yourself and your car stops eh

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Nice write up, but the pictures are huge. I wonder if this method works for the Corolla?
As for which pin goes where, match the pin G with the caliper that has G and the other side has L with L.
Here's a video that might help.
Yote..most likely very similar in design..i think both calipers have a G & L on the the G is for the bottom ear and L for the top or vice versa lol, it is stamped on the bolt head and caliper/bracket though
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:04 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by illinois_erik View Post


Yote..most likely very similar in design..i think both calipers have a G & L on the the G is for the bottom ear and L for the top or vice versa lol, it is stamped on the bolt head and caliper/bracket though

didnt know they were stamped on the brackets, im going to be pulling my calipers again this weekend to paint them, if i find the stamp and visibly enough, i'll post another pic.


and sorry about the huge pics, i just got centurylink out to fix my damn internet today, so i can size them down finally.
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Old 07-26-2012, 01:13 AM   #5
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well the resize is done, so you should be able to just refresh the page and see them change. in theory
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Old 09-05-2012, 05:46 PM   #6
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Hey,
From the pic of the slider pins, you have Akebono calipers right?
Thanks.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:25 PM   #7
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Hey,
From the pic of the slider pins, you have Akebono calipers right?
Thanks.
Akebono =
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Old 10-11-2012, 02:09 PM   #8
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If the dust boot is torn, must you rebuild the whole caliper, or could you just replace the boot alone without disconnecting the caliper? From the procedure it looks like you have to remove the piston in order to mount the boot on right?
Thanks.
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Old 10-12-2012, 03:44 AM   #9
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Good work.

I know many people that do not know how to rebuild a caliper even though it is extremely easy.

Hopefully this will help some people.
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Old 10-12-2012, 11:59 AM   #10
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I may do this to my calipers, now that I see how easy it is. I just installed rear discs, so my entire system needs to be bled anyway. Might as well do this while the system has no pressure, so I only have to bleed once!

Great writeup. Your descriptions and pictures are very clear. Thank you for such a great contribution to this community!
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Old 10-12-2012, 12:21 PM   #11
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May I also recommend that the use of silicone brake lubricant (synthetic lubricant) instead of high temperature grease for the slider pins as it will last longer and will not dry out as fast. Nice write up.
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Old 10-12-2012, 05:11 PM   #12
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May I also recommend that the use of silicone brake lubricant (synthetic lubricant) instead of high temperature grease for the slider pins as it will last longer and will not dry out as fast. Nice write up.
You mean like the 3M stuff? Those are good stuff, I got a jar I just bought.
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Old 10-13-2012, 08:31 AM   #13
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I think it was Ericthecarguy that said the pin with the rubber bushing on the end goes in the bottom position and the plain sliding pin goes in the top.
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Old 10-26-2012, 02:54 PM   #14
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Just to clarify and add some info to help others. I lube up my slide pins the other day and found the following information:
1) My calipers were Akebono with single long pin sliders. Torque specs is 54 ft/lb.
2) The pin marked G on both pins and calipers are for the top pins.
3) The bottom pins marked L for the bottom passenger's pin, and T for the bottom driver's side pin. Both of the bottom pins have the rubber ring at the end of them.

For some reason, after lubing the pins, my rhythmic front noise from the driver's side seems to reduce considerably. I suspected the noise to be bearing but the wheel spin smoothly, zero play. All ball joints are tight and boots in tact. Wheels have been balanced and rotated multiple times. So the only remaining thing left were the brakes. My pads wore evenly on both sides. After 60K miles, I still have more than 65% left. When I pulled the pins, the lube was thin to almost none left and it was black. I used the 3M silicon lube which was expensive but worth it on my car. I am not so sure about the black CRC stuff.
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Old 12-07-2012, 08:39 PM   #15
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Here's a video that some dude did on another car that you could use as reference.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:57 PM   #16
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Not sure if dumb question or not but this should work the same with the rear calibers as well right? I have a sieved rear pass caliber and need to replace it or rebuild it.. Thanks
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Old 01-08-2013, 12:21 PM   #17
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Not sure if dumb question or not but this should work the same with the rear calibers as well right? I have a sieved rear pass caliber and need to replace it or rebuild it.. Thanks
The rear ones are screw on pistons as oppose to these just push in.
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Old 01-08-2013, 06:54 PM   #18
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Not sure if dumb question or not but this should work the same with the rear calibers as well right? I have a sieved rear pass caliber and need to replace it or rebuild it.. Thanks
same principle except like others have mentioned the piston screws back in DO NOT try to screw it out the rest of the way, and have fun screwing it back in while not trying to fuck up the dust boot, lots of brake caliper grease all over the boot, piston and in the lip of the caliper where the boot finally seats, will be your com padre
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