Estimate my time!

[af_1132]

Hey bud, haven't heard from you in a minute, so thanks for stopping by.

First, here is the dyno sheet:



First thing I need to do is a compression test, for sure.

I'll state that the intake and the exhaust are both not flowing properly for this cam. You can hear and feel the bottle necking at full throttle under 4k.

I have a plan to address this in the short term:

IM: 66mm Skunk2 Alpha TB matched to Rosko Racing's H22 plentum, 1 in Rosko spacer (no IAB plates), and have Rosko perform their runner work on my runers.

Exhaust: Keep DC header, but weld on the Vibrant 2" to 2.5" collector, Vibrant 2.5" flex pipe, Vibrant Ceramic Core CAT, Vibrant Resonator, K-Teller 2.5" piping kit, and Vibrant 2.5" inlet black dual tip muffler. I thought about Varex, but I just can't justify the price for not staying N/A long term.

As far as launching, because of the 12.6lbs ACT flywheel and Exedy Stage 2 6-puck, launches have been a challenge. This run sums up what I am trying to do these days, still without a traction bar.



Raise revs to 3k, and then push them up to near 4k and don't dump. This was the first time I really got this down. The second time, I pulled a 2.214 60', so it's making a difference.

[jdm92_accorn]

Those numbers seem so low. That setup should easily have made 150whp+. As far as the launches, have you tried to launch on street tires? On a side note, if you have hondata s300, why aren't you using launch control.

[af_1132]

It does seem low, and the only things that seem to be making it that low, despite the obvious bad air flow characteristics are one of two things:

1. Worn Rings or bad valve sealing characteristics. I am going to get a compression test kit and see what's going on there.

2. The cam is not dialed in right. Blacktrax got it running after redoing all timing components, since Timing and Balance Shafts were loose, tensioners were screwed up, and the Timing belt was off by a tooth. There was nothing on the invoice regarding dialing the cam, but they did do a valve adjustment. Sooo, that makes me wonder if they did not see the need to dial the cam in.

I could try a launch on street tires at the track, but I have not yet. I've tried launches on the street with the Kuhmo Ecsta Extreme Sports, and all I get is a subdued wheel hop.

Launch Control - I could easily add 2 step to the calibration, but I always didn't want to because I like the added challenge and freedom of finding that perfect launch RPM and testing different RPMs. I also read that it is quite hard on turbo setups to rapidly cut fuel at regular intervals, so I wanted to play it extra safe even with my N/A motor. If any of this is fooey, let me know.

[Chrisnick]

Took my CD to the track last night. Here are my results for comparison.



Not too shabby for what's done to the car. Still have lots of parts to put on. Did 6 runs, one right after another, this was the last and the best. 5K dump, a touch of hop, powershifting and right at about 6000rpm at the top of third through the traps. If it wasn't for the heatsoak of hot lapping it, I'm sure I could've gotten it down to a 15.5-6 around 87-88mph, just as I expected it to run. Tires were aired down to about 20lbs, and these BFG G-force sport comp-2's get STICKY after a few launches. Ended up getting rained out after only about an hour of run time, I parked my car to cool about 30 minutes into the rental and was letting it cool. Temps were just about perfect, low humidity too. We should get another rain date with 3 hours to run though. Very confident it will drop another couple tenths and gain some mph.

My car: F23A1, stock tune, 3" intake tube, H22 throttle body, port matched plenum opening, stock long block, balance shaft belt removed, JVT header(smashed/leaks slightly), factory cat/exhaust piping, 2.25" magnaflow muffler. No weight reduction. Wagon trans with 4.266FD. Half tank of gas. Bilstein shocks, Skunk2 sport springs, no front bar, progress rear bar, previously mentioned tires in a 205/50/16.

[jdm92_accorn]

For reference my first setup which was no name ebay bought i/h/e, stock h23 intake manifold and bisimoto lvl 2 regrind with the cam gear set at 0. It made 155 whp and the car ran consistent 15.3's on street tire and at 3000lbs. Wheel hop is probably due to engine mounts for the most part. The level 2 is a regrind so lobe centers should be same as stock. This means if the engine is timed correctly it should make its best power at zero. Since this is a race car you should lose the balance shafts belt, go to mcmaster.com and get some 80a urethane and fill your mounts, this will makes shifting easier aswell as almost eliminate wheel hop. As far as 2step, if you have hondata S300 and a laptop, launch control takes no time at all to find a good launch rpm, set it and be done. On most street tires, 3800rpms is a good starting point for a mild modded f22. Here is a 5k launch, wheel spin and no hop.this is with stock front mount with Energy Suspension inserts and ESP mounts at the other three points.


I'll see if I can get down to the track after I swap back to the f22 and video the launch from both the inside and the out.

Link for mcmasters.com
http://www.mcmaster.com/#casting-compounds/=xveavj

[af_1132]

I just finished filling my last mount with 80A Urethane from Energy Suspension Parts. I also have this for a front mount, and it helps:



Now, if you really think 2-step will not put more strain on my old pistons and rings (308k miles), then you're right. It's easy to set up, and I can do it quick.

Now, regarding the Bisi Lvl 2, If BLacktrax knew this, which I assume they did, then that is why they did not bother with the dialing in, and just moved it a tooth to be at 0.

Losing balance shaft belts is coming soon in the build, when the engine is pulled for block work.

Chrisnick, not bad at all with full curb weight. That's where I was (15.71) with i/h/e with the F22A1 manifold and lots of weight reduction, but stock suspension.

[sonikaccord]

308k? Wow...and it's still ticking, racing in fact. That's impressive in itself.

I love your front torque mount. You should write up a DIY.

[Chrisnick]

You should definitely be faster. I don't know about your elevation, but I'm at about sea level in Ohio. Since you have slicks, I'd launch as high as possible, probably 5K or more. I couldn't get under a 2.3 60' until I dropped down to about 20lbs in the tires and upwards of a 4K clutch drop. On the street, I know it'd either just spin or wheelhop like crazy, but at the track it's a whole different story; it did about 3-4 hops while it spun, I heard the tires gripping, landed around 4K and just pulled great. Better mounts should go a long way. I forgot how much fun the drag strip is, our rain date is looking like it's set to 8/20 so I should have some more stuff done and be able to dial it in better. I'm really sure I can get the 60ft down in the 2.1 on these tires, if not better, and down to probably a 15.5-6. MPH may not get any higher since I won't be adding much power, if any at all, by that date, but I'm certain with dialing in the launch the times will drop. I powershift so I'm not losing time anywhere but at the launch. I may throw in the rear coilover springs I have since they're about 150lbs(about a rate of 10k/530lbs) stiffer than what's currently in there(291lbs). Preloading with the handbrake should help a bit, too.

[af_1132]

I could definitely preload with the handbrake. I haven't tried that yet. The tires I have aren't true slicks, btw, they are M.T. E.T. street radial IIs.



Now, I thought of one more thing that could be hurting power, and that is the friction between the followers and the lobes caused by the Bisi springs. Bisi says they are 78lbs seat, Wes measured near 100lbs seat years ago. What I really wanted was new A6 Springs from Honda, but Majestic says they are discontinuned. I shift at around 6750k, so, good grief, I don't think valve float is a concern of mine.

[Chrisnick]

I wouldn't even bother going that high with your current power curve. 6200/stock would be plenty high. Shifting that high is probably hurting more than helping at this point with that curve. Preload, launch higher, WOT shift, and try shifting at a lower RPM, probably just after 6000 RPM. Map out your ratios with various shift points against your power curve and see where you will have the greatest average power. Even with your current power level, you should be running faster times that what you are with that setup. I'd even suggest swapping the front and rear springs on your coilovers to resist weight transfer at the launch.

[jdm92_accorn]

Slight wheel spin in first may help if you're bogging the engine. Chrisnick is right about the different shift point. I usually shift at 7400 in first but 6800in every gear after. With your setup I'd probably shift 6400 in first the 6000 every gear after. You need to focus on keeping intake velocities high. When you rev too high for the cam and supporting mods you are slowing intake momentum and damaging your engine.

[af_1132]

Thanks, guys, for your continued support.

I will try the lower shift points, right at 6k was where I shifted before the cam, so I will try pre-loading with the handbrake, launch control set at somewhere under 4k rpm, street tires, and shift points around 6400 rpm for first and 6k for the rest.

August 5th is my next chance to go, and by then I will have a traction bar, at the very least.