difference between injectors F22 & H22 ???

[deevergote]

You really don't need to dig up a 3 year old thread to ask that question... it's better to post a new thread. It also helps a LOT to use punctuation, because I can barely understand what you're asking!

Anyway, you're using F22A injectors... WAY too small for the H22. Losing low end power is your only concern? Do you know what happens when an engine is underfueled? BOOM! The fact that you've been revving it until it cuts out means you may very well have done serious damage already!

Is your CEL on?

[GhostAccord]

Depending on your ECU the 5K rpm limit would be the neutral rev cut.

Running 240cc injectors will not effect low power it will effect and definitely lean out @ wide open throttle, high RPM and when VTEC is engaged. I suggest you get some 345cc low impedance injectors before you melt the tops of your pistons.

[AnonymousCB7]

You really don't need to dig up a 3 year old thread to ask that question... it's better to post a new thread. It also helps a LOT to use punctuation, because I can barely understand what you're asking!

Anyway, you're using F22A injectors... WAY too small for the H22. Losing low end power is your only concern? Do you know what happens when an engine is underfueled? BOOM! The fact that you've been revving it until it cuts out means you may very well have done serious damage already!

Is your CEL on?

Oh goodness your scaring me deev I need injectors asap than. And no it isn't on which is the weird thing my oxygen sensor isn't even hooked up and that should cause it to come on it's never on actually. And sorry for the punctuation I'm typing on an iPhone so yeah XD would h23 injectors work or is the 345cc for vtech only? And could I use 97-01 prelude injectors?

[GhostAccord]

H23 are only 240cc same as the F22. The 97-01 H22 VTEC injectors are 290cc and saturated (high impedance). They will work however, In order to use them you will have to remove the stock resistor box (used with low impedance injectors).

[deevergote]

Just use obd1 h22 injectors to avoid potential issues associated with installation error. If you don't HAVE to do something custom, don't. Your o2 sensor should be hooked up and functional. What ecu are you running? With any stock ecu, the CEL would be on. Either the ECU is faulty, or your CEL bulb has burned out. My guess is that the bulb is out, your ecu is throwing error codes, and running the engine in "limp mode"... Which is why you cut out at 5k, and stay out of vtec range. Either way, you could be doing even more damage with no o2 sensor! With small injectors and no o2 sensor, your ecu doesn't even know that you're running dangerously lean!



By the way, I'm posting from my iPhone as well. Sitting in a supermarket parking lot. I'm just not too lazy to add a little punctuation so you can understand what I'm saying. I would appreciate the same respect in return.

You might want to start setting aside money for a new engine...

[AnonymousCB7]

Just use obd1 h22 injectors to avoid potential issues associated with installation error. If you don't HAVE to do something custom, don't. Your o2 sensor should be hooked up and functional. What ecu are you running? With any stock ecu, the CEL would be on. Either the ECU is faulty, or your CEL bulb has burned out. My guess is that the bulb is out, your ecu is throwing error codes, and running the engine in "limp mode"... Which is why you cut out at 5k, and stay out of vtec range. Either way, you could be doing even more damage with no o2 sensor! With small injectors and no o2 sensor, your ecu doesn't even know that you're running dangerously lean!



By the way, I'm posting from my iPhone as well. Sitting in a supermarket parking lot. I'm just not too lazy to add a little punctuation so you can understand what I'm saying. I would appreciate the same respect in return.

You might want to start setting aside money for a new engine...

Ok so I got injectors now and bottom end power is restored but when vtech engages it kinda makes a quiet backfire noise and stumbles but then clears and then I shift. So my guess is I have a vacuum leak somewhere but all hoses are connected.. and my ecu bulb isn't burnt out it was working just before the new ecu was put in.. And I really don't know what ecu it is got it from fluid motor sports they just put a base h22 map on it and have it too me for 100$ but I'll hook the u2 sensor up and let you guys know..

[GhostAccord]

You should have your car tuned properly if you are running a chipped ECU. It's not good to be running your engine on an unknown ECU and basemap. As for your CEL not coming on, the basemap on the ECU probably has all of the available CEL codes disabled.

[deevergote]

Hook up your o2 sensor (NTK or Denso only. No Bosch)
Throw a P13 in there, or if you don't have a P13, use an Accord's PT3 or PT6 (and don't rev it higher than you need... try to keep it under 4000...)

Even if you're running the Accord ECU, you'll still get the error codes for many things (obviously not knock sensor or anything VTEC related...)


Until you figure out what's going wrong, STOP TRYING TO REV TO VTEC!


If you're getting a backfire, that means that one or more of these things are possible: 1) too much fuel is being sent, and what isn't burned before the exhaust valve opens is being ignited in the exhaust, 2) the spark is weak, 3) the ignition timing is way off, 4) the valve timing is off, 5) there's something REALLY screwy with that custom map of yours, 6) your engine has already been damaged by running too-small injectors, and isn't working properly.


Either way, what you are experiencing is very bad. Be very careful with things if you want this engine to survive. First thing first, chuck that "custom" map! Get that ECU properly tuned for YOUR engine, or don't use it at all!