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Old 01-25-2008, 02:46 AM   #1
JaK FRoSTWhiTE
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Comparison: OEM Rear Sway Bars

I was just curious and wanted to find out the diameter of our factory Rear sway bar.
And i also wanted to compare other factory sway bars that fit our cars and see how thick they are.
Here's what i found...

1. 90-93 Accord EX/SE
14mm thickness.
Very wimpy looking...




2. 92-94 Acura Vigor LS/GS
16mm thickness.
Much more beefier than the factory one.



3. 91-93 Accord Wagon LX/EX
14mm thickness.
The cb9 did NOT get the Vigor rear sway like some people say.




4. 94-97 Accord EX/Wagon/v6
15mm thickness.
1mm thicker than cb7 factory.
Not worth the upgrade unless it was give to you or aquired really cheap!



.................................................. ...

Discuss...
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Old 01-25-2008, 02:54 AM   #2
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quality post that would finally end the rear sway bar comparison Qs..

what about the front sway bars, are they all 22mm on the OEMs?
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:00 AM   #3
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ex sway bar is that weak, i need to upgrade to a aftermarket sway bar soon.
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Old 01-25-2008, 07:07 AM   #4
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the ex is very weak, but if you are a dx/lx person and dont have it then its better than nothing. i started out with out a rear one then got the ex rear, then got the progress rear.

a 94-97 accord ex or a the first gen cl is 27mm (front)
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:12 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oneoffaccord
the ex is very weak, but if you are a dx/lx person and dont have it then its better than nothing. i started out with out a rear one then got the ex rear, then got the progress rear.

a 94-97 accord ex or a the first gen cl is 27mm (front)
Thats true, if you're car didnt come with one, then having atleast teh cb7 EX one is satisfying.
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casterX
what about the front sway bars, are they all 22mm on the OEMs?
Im going to put together another one for the fronts...
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Old 02-08-2008, 05:26 PM   #7
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i had the progress sway bar in storage for now...22mm of rear sway ftw....any one here install one yet?
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:25 PM   #8
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I guess I need an upgrade then!!
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Old 02-10-2008, 01:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MessyHonda
i had the progress sway bar in storage for now...22mm of rear sway ftw....any one here install one yet?
Lots of people, including me. Definitely worth it.
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:04 PM   #10
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I'm curious about something though.

When I had an OEM EX/SE sway bar and I was searching for bushings, they listed two sizes for the bushings.
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:51 PM   #11
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The Vigor is a definitely a noticeable upgrade. I had the EX 14mm previously and that 2mm diff. can be felt in my coupe, esp. when you have coilovers and lowered suspension w/ grippy 17 inch tires/wheels. I can if I wanted to, oversteer around a corner by quickly turning the wheel, and it's controlable suprisingly.
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Old 11-16-2008, 03:09 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AccordWarrior View Post
I'm curious about something though.

When I had an OEM EX/SE sway bar and I was searching for bushings, they listed two sizes for the bushings.
Nope they are the exactly the same.
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Old 11-16-2008, 04:08 PM   #13
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vigor on the project car feels like poop.

i should upgrade to the progress rear and 27mm oem front.
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Old 11-16-2008, 05:18 PM   #14
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hey Jak,

you should make a Sway bar FAQ with all the sway bar info.

FYI:

Suspension Technique Sway bars:

Front: 1 1/16" (27mm)
Rear: 13/16" (21mm)

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Old 11-16-2008, 05:44 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by The G-Man View Post
Lots of people, including me. Definitely worth it.
x2 def worth it. and install is easy.
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Old 11-16-2008, 11:05 PM   #16
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IMO leave the front alone.

just change the bushings.

i did the cheapy vigor sway and i was more than happy cuz it was a 10 dollar mod
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Old 11-17-2008, 12:09 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lokuputha View Post
hey Jak,

you should make a Sway bar FAQ with all the sway bar info.

FYI:

Suspension Technique Sway bars:

Front: 1 1/16" (27mm)
Rear: 13/16" (21mm)

yeah i found my ST rear sway locally for 40 bucks BRAND NEW too!
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Old 08-26-2014, 04:59 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f22-dohc View Post
IMO leave the front alone.
I know this is an archeologically ancient thread, but thought I might have something of interest to add.

I tend to agree about the front ARB. Front heavy FWD cars are inherent understeerers, increasing front roll stiffness may only make this worse.

There are exceptions, namely cars with Mac strut front ends when body roll causes excessive road relative camber change, i.e. lessening negative camber / increasing positive camber of the outside front wheel (the most important front wheel due to weight transfer). With Mac struts anything that lessens body roll, including increasing front roll stiffness, can improve understeer. It's a matter of 'adding' one thing that has an inherent deleterious effect (increasing front roll stiffness) for the sake of an associated larger secondary benefit (keeping the treads more 'squarely' presented to the road surface).

CB7s and close relatives are different. They have a well designed double wishbone front end, which has a much better 'camber curve' with body roll (than Mac struts inherently can). So, keeping the tyres 'flat' to the road isn't such a big deal, they will tend to remain that way anyway due to the superior suspension geometry. The inherent chassis relative camber change with roll keeps the tyre treads 'flatter' on the road than with a Mac strut, so increasing front roll stiffness may have more adverse affects on understeer than beneficial affects.

The adverse affect of increasing front roll stiffness is that it changes the front / rear distribution of lateral weight transfer, more weight will transfer laterally at the front and less at the rear (a similar effect occurs if the rear roll stiffness were to be reduced). Grip will tend to be lost (at an axle line) whenever lateral weight transfer across that axle line is increased (e.g. transfer from the inside front to the outside front), and the opposite affect if the roll stiffness is decreased (i.e. grip will tend to be gained at the end of the car where the roll stiffness was lessened, with simultaneous increase in grip at the other end).

Note that weight transfer in total is only dictated by the track width, by the CG height, and by the strength of lateral acceleration. With these things as givens, all we can do with changes in ARB and spring stiffness is to change the lateral distribution of the weight transfer at the front end vs the rear end.

We still tend to want less roll to occur, which is why the rear ARB is the best ARB to stiffen up. From the perspective of reducing roll motion, it doesn't matter at which end the roll stiffness is increased, it will control roll motion front and rear (but it still has a direct affect on the distribution of weight transfer).

My car has Koni Sports and uprated front and rear springs. I can't recall which springs I bought, but they are substantially stiffer than stock without being hugely stiff. The % spring stiffness increase is greater at the rear than the front springs, which is largely why I chose the set I chose. This increases rear roll stiffness more than front roll stiffness (roll stiffness being a function of both spring and ARB stiffness). I have a rear ARB just a bit less than 20mm diameter, so not hugely stiff but much stiffer than the rear spaghetti that Honda fitted.

Now, what I' have found with these springs and the stiffer rear ARB is that the car handled significantly better when I disconnected the front ARB. Yes really. The front ARB is now completely removed. Removing the front ARB reduces the front roll stiffness substantially, with a resulting decrease in lateral weight transfer at the front, while simultaneously increasing weight transfer at the rear (even when nothing has been done to the rear end). This results in more front grip and less rear grip, moving the handling balance away from understeer and toward oversteer. It would be possible to go too far with this, but my car handles just fine...

Mileage may vary depending on the detail of the set up (and mine has other mods to the chassis, suspension, and steering geometry), but IMO it's well worth seeing if a particular car may handle better without the front ARB altogether...

PS, my rear ARB started life in the front end of a TR Magna. It's been bent and unbent to suit it's new life in the rear of a CB7. This involved the use of oxy-acetylene and force. The metal hasn't been re-heat treated, but this hasn't been an issue (the ARB has been in there for at least 4 years with no problem). Many factory ARBs aren't heat treated because they don't twist enough to exceed the elastic limits of the un heat treated steel, they get away with this because a good grade of steel is used (you wouldn't get away with this with coil springs though).
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