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Old 03-08-2020, 09:15 PM   #1
blazercrx
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Transmission won't shift

I have a 92 EX coupe auto w 103K miles and I bought it with this issue. I have searched and read thru 5 pages so far and haven't found any other threads that match my issue, a couple are similar though.

The transmission will move the car in Rev and D4 thru 1 on the selector. The transmission will NOT shift out of 1st gear in any of the forward gear selections. I have hard accelerated, crept, normal accelerated with a hold at the RPM that is should shift, ran it to redline and bounced it off the governor... nothing would get it to shift out of 1st. Sometimes it will act like the transmission is slipping and barely move forward. Otherwise it acted like it was normal except it wouldn't shift up.

I have cleaned the solenoid's, swapped the TCU for one that I have rebuilt with new resistors and is running my sedan 10th Anniversary CB. The PO said he flushed the transmission using the 3/3 method everyone has suggested to those with shifting issues and the fluid is bright red and full so I believe he was honest.

Is the transmission shot? Is there anything else that I can do to try to get this fixed?
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Old 03-22-2020, 06:50 PM   #2
fleetw00d
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Are you getting any transmission codes? Just off the top of my head, make sure the shifter cable is actually moving the selector lever at the transmission.
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Old 03-23-2020, 05:23 PM   #3
blazercrx
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No transmission codes, PO said he had a VSS code and changed it before he sold it to me to try and correct the shifting issue.

The shifting issue I believe is internal or electrical. I've back the car out and driven the car down the road, it just won't shift to the next gear. I will have my wife shift while I watch for the cables to move to confirm transmission lever movement.

Thank you for responding.
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Old 03-26-2020, 12:44 PM   #4
Ghostwhite
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Just a shot in the dark but what about the kickdown cable? Is it set properly and functioning with throttle application?
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Old 03-27-2020, 06:48 AM   #5
blazercrx
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checked last night, kickdown cable attached to throttle body and adjusted to immediately start moving lever on trans. Should there be resistance from the lever, as a manual clutch cable feels, or is actuating an electrical switch? It felt like there was no resistance from the lever.
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:16 AM   #6
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Someone else may chime in with a better answer but from what I remember the lever does not have much resistance and moves fairly freely.
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:18 PM   #7
fleetw00d
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Yes, the lever moves very easily, it is just moving a valve within the transmission. Nominally, the lever should begin to move from its lowest position as soon as the throttle pulley begins to move. It can be adjusted some from that position to affect how the upshift/downshift behavior of the transmission; but I don't think it can cause the transmission not to shift at all.
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Old 03-29-2020, 02:30 PM   #8
fleetw00d
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Check the shift solenoids. They are the lower pair on the front of the transmission. The resistance from each pin of the connector to engine ground should be 12-24 ohms. If you apply 12 volts to each pin (separately) with the ground on the engine, you should be able to hear each solenoid click. If the both work, check the continuity of the wiring from the TCU to the solenoid connector pins.
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Old 04-01-2020, 02:46 PM   #9
blazercrx
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Thank you for confirming which solenoids were the shifting ones. I had both sets off to clean and confirm the 12 volts would actuate them, when I first got the car, forgot to mention that, sorry. I didn't check resistance or continuity back to TCU though. I don't know which pin location they go to, but I'll ring them all out and if I don't get two then I know somethings up.

I just rebuilt the TCU that came with it, to eliminate that as an option but it still acts up.
There's two things that bother me about this problem:
1. immediately after shifting to D4 it acts as if it has a severely worn clutch from a manual, then there's a quick gear grinding sound and proper acceleration follows, with no shifting out of 1st.
2. while on jack stands and in D4 gear, I would rev the engine, keep it at 4k, pop it up to 6k and let if fall to idle. Battery light turns on after that until I rev it a little. Also, once its to operating temp the fan doesn't kick on unless I rev the engine. It shuts off once I let it idle, open throttle blade and it turns back on again.
I want to believe it's an electrical issue with they way #2 makes the car act, but #1 makes it sound like the trans is shot, even though it only has 103k miles... I'll get back to you about the electrical values for the solenoids.
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