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Overheating driving me insane!!!

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    #16
    A/C system has dual pressure switch to prevent from compressor blowing up.

    Radiator fan has two temp switches. One for normal operation (key on engine on), the other for after shut-down (key off engine off).

    Now, it sounds like to me that your temp switch for normal operation is not working.
    A&P-IA

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      #17
      Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
      A/C system has dual pressure switch to prevent from compressor blowing up.

      Radiator fan has two temp switches. One for normal operation (key on engine on), the other for after shut-down (key off engine off).

      Now, it sounds like to me that your temp switch for normal operation is not working.
      Where are the 2 switches located because i have done 3 sensors around the distributor/thermostat area

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        #18
        Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
        A/C system has dual pressure switch to prevent from compressor blowing up.

        Radiator fan has two temp switches. One for normal operation (key on engine on), the other for after shut-down (key off engine off).

        Now, it sounds like to me that your temp switch for normal operation is not working.
        This.


        I was also going to suggest busting out a multi meter and double checking the things you already replaced. Basically, sometimes new parts are faulty but you convince yourself that there is NO WAY it could be whatever you have already replaced. I have done this myself, so anytime I replace a bunch of shit and have problems later I double check my work.


        It is an easy mistake to make, and I have personally had this issue a couple times with coolant temp sensors.
        Originally posted by wed3k
        im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

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          #19
          I don't know the answer...but I do know NOT to floor it on an open road to cool it down. If you must keep moving and you have no way to pull over, open the windows and turn the heater on. The temp should go down to a safe enough driving temp. I went from LA to Vegas in the summer 110 heat that way and saved the engine from damage till I got it fixed. I had a bad radiator. You need to check again the water pump, thermostat, and the head gasket signs like the bubbles or steam in tail. I don't recall if fans turned on AS I drove. One came on after I parked.

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            #20
            Originally posted by SilverShadow View Post
            I don't know the answer...but I do know NOT to floor it on an open road to cool it down. If you must keep moving and you have no way to pull over, open the windows and turn the heater on. The temp should go down to a safe enough driving temp. I went from LA to Vegas in the summer 110 heat that way and saved the engine from damage till I got it fixed. I had a bad radiator. You need to check again the water pump, thermostat, and the head gasket signs like the bubbles or steam in tail. I don't recall if fans turned on AS I drove. One came on after I parked.
            Im not flooring it in park -.-, i mean if i get to a open road and airs flowing it drops straight down. Turning on the heater does nothing for bringing down the temp...

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              #21
              Originally posted by oyajicool View Post
              Another thing to think about is the sufficient flow of cooling air. There's a condenser sitting in front of the radiator. If for some reason this condenser's not allowing air to flow through due to bent fins or debris, the radiator is not getting needed cooling air. Thus it needs you to floor it for more vehicle speed = more air speed= more airflow.
              Have you checked into this?
              A&P-IA

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