needs more power!

[hauler_asser]

Then why does the voltage drop when the car is off?

the voltage drops because the alternator is not charging it.

[hauler_asser]

plus im not tring to talk trash about this mans system but pyle and visonik are not name brand products. when they say 4000 watts there only like 500 -600 rms. so a alternator is not necesary. belive me bro i got cars at the shop running 10,000 watts plus rms and yes i do use alternators on those cars. but on something this small its really not necesary. but if you feel you need it by all means install it. im just tring to save you some cash.

[hauler_asser]

I was running 3 Fosgate old school cheater amps. 2 RF 125.2s(500watts each RMS, not bullshit overrated watts), and 1 RF 225.2(900watts RMS). They were sucking power like crazy. They were using about 170amps worth of fuses.

Big 3 + alternator + optima battery = no problems.

Yea I only used 8 gauge, it was a 2-3foot run, 8 gauge will handle that fine. I left in the stock alternator to battery wire, I ADDED the 8 gauge in addition to it.

Been running this setup for 8 years, no problems at all. Same originial optima battery also.

if the alternator runns everything why you running a optima battery? if the battery is only to back up the alternator wouldnt a autozone battery be fine?

[jcoleman_11]

an optima battery is ideal simply because it can handle being drained and recharged constantly way better than most batteries.

and 10,000 watts RMS, come on! i dont want to call you a liar, but im honestly doubting those kinds of numbers. That is just extreme and will only fall into the category of spl comps. And, DB drag racers usually do their own work and wouldnt need to bring it into a shop, so are you being serious?

[jcoleman_11]

the voltage drops because the alternator is not charging it.

wow.... i just re-read this. you might need to do some research. a battery isnt going to somehow miraculously produce more juice because its being charged. 12.5 volts is what a battery gives, it doesnt give more cause its being charged, its because the alt is providing more. turn your car on and it jumps to approx. 14 volts (14.3 on mine but wtv)

[sonikaccord]

wow.... i just re-read this. you might need to do some research. a battery isnt going to somehow miraculously produce more juice because its being charged. 12.5 volts is what a battery gives, it doesnt give more cause its being charged, its because the alt is providing more. turn your car on and it jumps to approx. 14 volts (14.3 on mine but wtv)

x2

plus im not tring to talk trash about this mans system but pyle and visonik are not name brand products. when they say 4000 watts there only like 500 -600 rms. so a alternator is not necesary. belive me bro i got cars at the shop running 10,000 watts plus rms and yes i do use alternators on those cars. but on something this small its really not necesary. but if you feel you need it by all means install it. im just tring to save you some cash.

10kw? Using what brands/products? What kind of install..spl?...daily driver? Sorry about all the question, just curious.

[hauler_asser]

digital design amps and subs. look them up. there comp products. im not tring to proove myself im just like i said tring to save this man money and time. izent that what were supposed to be doing here?

[hauler_asser]

an optima battery is ideal simply because it can handle being drained and recharged constantly way better than most batteries.

and 10,000 watts RMS, come on! i dont want to call you a liar, but im honestly doubting those kinds of numbers. That is just extreme and will only fall into the category of spl comps. And, DB drag racers usually do their own work and wouldnt need to bring it into a shop, so are you being serious?

SPECIFICATIONS


Series
Z

Input Sensitivity
0.2V - 8V

Variable High Pass Filter
---

Subsonic Filter
10 Hz - 50 Hz at 24 dB/Oct

Variable Low Pass Filter
35 Hz - 250 Hz at 24dB/Oct

Clipping Display
LED

Tested Voltage
14.4V

Tested THD
1%

Model
Z1a
Z2-HV
Z2-LV

Cont Power at 4 ohm
1250W x 1ch
2200W x 1 ch
2500W x 1 ch

Cont Power at 2 ohm

4400W x 1ch
4600W x 1ch

Damping Factor
>450 @ 1 ohm
TBA
TBA

Cont Power at 1 ohm
5000W x 1ch
7700W x 1ch @ 14.4v
8350W x 1ch @ 14.4v

Cont Power at 4 ohm Mono
1250W x 1ch
2200W x 1ch
2500W x 1ch

Cont Power at 3 ohm Mono
---
3300W x 1ch
3550W x 1ch

Dynamic Power
7072W x 1ch
12000W x 1ch
10000W x 1ch

Efficiency thru Output
>86%
>79% @ 12v
>81.2% @ 10v

Dimensions - mm
685.8 L x 304 W x 70 H
812.8 L x 304.8 W x 70.1
812.8 L x 304.8 W x 70.1

Dimensions - inches
27 L x 12 W x 2.76 H
32 L x 12 W x 2.76 H
32 L x 12 W x 2.76 H

Signal to Noise
85 dB
TBA
TBA

Shipping Weight
43 lbs
55 lbs
55 lbs




AND THIS IS JUST ONE OF THE AMPS IN THIS CAR. TRUST WERE THE BEST IIN CAR AUDIO.

[jcoleman_11]

OMG!! 8350W x 1ch @ 1ohm!! thats insane!!

[sonikaccord]

DD is a beast when it comes to competition. I want to try one of their subs one day, when I get some money.

[90Haccord]

if the alternator runns everything why you running a optima battery? if the battery is only to back up the alternator wouldnt a autozone battery be fine?

What in the fuck are you talkin about?

Didn't you just prove you are an idiot above by claiming the alternator doesn't run electronics hahahha

I used an optima battery b/c I wanted the best, just like I upgraded my ALTERNATOR in order to supply enough juice.

If you work in a car audio store, please give me the number and name. I'd like to warn them of your ignorance so they can save some cash on potential future insurance claims against you. CHRIST

[jcoleman_11]

What in the fuck are you talkin about?

Didn't you just prove you are an idiot above by claiming the alternator doesn't run electronics hahahha

I used an optima battery b/c I wanted the best, just like I upgraded my ALTERNATOR in order to supply enough juice.

If you work in a car audio store, please give me the number and name. I'd like to warn them of your ignorance so they can save some cash on potential future insurance claims against you. CHRIST

X2, i know there is no flaming in the beginner section, but you claim you work in a car audio shop yet you dont seem to know much. Trust me, im wrong sometimes and we are corrected, this is what this forum is all about, learning, but dont go giving advice on something you clearly know nothing about.

[90Haccord]

X2, i know there is no flaming in the beginner section, but you claim you work in a car audio shop yet you dont seem to know much. Trust me, im wrong sometimes and we are corrected, this is what this forum is all about, learning, but dont go giving advice on something you clearly know nothing about.

I'm not flaming anyone, I'm being dead serious. IF HE WORKS IN THE CAR AUDIO INDUSTRY, I'd really like to save him setting someone's car on fire b/c its obvious he doesn't know shit about electronics.


Not to mention he was jumping my shit and I wasn't even involved in his little pissing contest with other members.

Everybody is wrong sometimes, but that kid is giving out advice like he KNOWS something about electronics, which it is OBVIOUS he has no clue. Thats dangerous, plain and simple.

[hauler_asser]

look this is the point ive been tring to make to you guys. he is not running anything huge. so no need to waist money and time on a alternator that is going to go bad more than usual. i dont kare who makes it it wil go out alot. a good battery in the front and a small one in the back with a battery isolator will do fine for his set up. BUT THATS JUST MY PROFETIONAL OPINION

[hauler_asser]

I Havent Seen The Guy That Posted This Tread Post Anymore So Im Guessing He Took Care Of His Problem.