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want to put an A6* IM on my A1...

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    #16
    Do you have an F22a6, H23, or H22 plenum to mate to those runners? Your a1 plenum will not work. If you can find an h22 or h23 plenum+TB it has a larger TB already...plenty for the F22 stock block.
    My Member's Ride Thread

    Bisimoto header before & after dyno

    1993 10th Anniversary: F22a6, H23IM, Bisimoto header, Custom mandrel exhaust, 5spd swap.

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      #17
      Originally posted by cloudasc View Post
      Read this: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...=iab+black+box

      As for your pt6 issue, you should really look at my signature, especially if you know someone who can solder.

      As for porting the intake, there's not much if any gain to be had by doing so, unless you plan on having the intake side of the head ported to match. Honestly you would be better off getting your throttlebody maxbore'd.

      And remember more air = more fuel.
      read the thread and now i understand how the box works, like i little vacuum reserve. guess ill be forcing the iabs closed till i get the ecu.

      I did see your signature and im pretty good with electronics. I might do that if i cant find a pt6 next time, but i have future plans of vtec.

      Each part of the manifold is ported just to take out casting flaws. Mostly for a smooth transition from plenum to runners.


      The manifold is together and its a6 runners, spacer, iabs on top, h22 plenum, and h22 auto tb.
      Last edited by ali954; 06-27-2012, 10:09 AM.

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        #18

        so the IM went on pretty easy with some work and swapping. runs and drives good for down the block and back but it has idle problems .
        feel like its definitely pulling more vacuum and/or making more torque.

        my old manifold idled normally high when cold then idle came down once warmed up. only idled erratically once in a blue like if it was cold and i got in to move it then back to park it might get erratic idn.

        i used my old IACV which was cleaned before. i didnt clean the FITV on the TB because it didn't look dirty. first swapped over the boost valve, then put the block-off back on and that didn't effect idle. tried setting base idle and even with idle screw all the way in, idle hovers around 1150 rpm with IACV unplugged. after ecu reset and car still warm, idle starts up to over 2000 rpm
        then comes down and is erratic between 1100-1600rpm.

        noticed a vibration through my finger when i touch spark plug wire 2. doing a valve adjustment tomorrow to quiet things down. could this be related? btw vacuum at idle and surging goes between ~19-21 in.Hg.
        Last edited by ali954; 07-02-2012, 08:53 PM.

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          #19
          It sounds like you just have a vacuum leak.
          My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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            #20
            forgot to add that i sprayed brake cleaner all around everywhere and the idle didnt really move around with IACV unplugged. im also going to try to adjust the throttle plate stop screw.

            edit:
            just drove it around town some and i think i need to clean and adjust the FITV. when i got home idle is at 900rpm and 21in.Hg., and with ac on 900 rpm and 19in.Hg. FITV is compensating too much when cold.

            feels like when im off the throttle like it wants to pull like it is getting too much air. TB adjustments later today when she cools.
            Last edited by ali954; 07-03-2012, 10:54 AM.

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              #21
              took the tb off and the screws holding the tps were loose. so i calibrated the tps to .45v at closed throttle and ~4.6v at WOT. also took off the FITV and broke a screw trying to take the little cap off to adjust it. grabbed a spare one, cleaned it, boiled it in water, and tightened the plunger. put the tb back on and turned the idle screw out alot. started it up and went up to 1500rpm, then warmed up and went down to about 900rpm. turned the idle screw all the way in and she sits at about 700-800rpm. no erraticness and i am pleased.

              considering putting air boost valve back it...

              last thing is valve lash adjustment and then my mpg's should be on point.

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                #22
                Car has been running smooth. I ran seafoam through it, and I cleaned my air filter. Car feels alot faster and opens up/sounds louder when I want it to. So far I got 25 mpg being conservative. I feel like I'm still trying to accelerate ~10 in.Hg., but it has a little more torque. Driving in neighborhoods and doing like 25 mph requires just a tiny amount of throttle, ~17 in.Hg. Still need to get a pt6 for now iabs are zip-tied closed and wired in.

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