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Which motor mount would cause slight shaking when compressor clutch turns on?

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    #1

    Which motor mount would cause slight shaking when compressor clutch turns on?

    Which motor mount causes slight vibration for a second when ac clutch engages so it can compress your freon. Sometimes it seems not to shake. It is really a slight annoying vibration that can't even be heard or seen from outside of the car. It vibrates less or not at all when parked uphill. The dogbone mount cause shaking at low rpm's. So i don't think it is that and i just changed it with a german febest(chinese before).

    I changed the rear mount with a chinese a couple months ago. Not sure why i did that. The chinese was pretty stiff(i thought that was good).

    The drivers side i couldn't find one where the holes align right, and i tried 3 different brands. All chinese crap. That drivers side one i left on looked like it had a slight crack. I might have to go to junkyard to get one with less miles than mine. Been looking half the day for new one. All chinese crap. Febest doesn't make one.

    The tranny mount bolts were slightly crooked and had to use washers to have it fit into bracket. I tried a few stores and all same chinese crooked bolts crap. But i still put it on with more than a few washers. Just figured it was better than one with 255k on it. Just ordered a german febest and hope it is authentic german made.

    Or could it be something else causing this vibration. I thought it could be a pulley as it also does this when headlights are cut on. Or maybe alternator just sucks but. What you think?
    Tags: None
    #2
    Anyone anyone?. Could it also be my flywheel. It shutters alot coming out of first and am pretty sure the flywheel is warped to some degree. My car has a slight steering wheel shutter at idle that isn't felt throughout car.
    I realize now this happens anytime electrical load goes on at idle. Only for a second. With headlights it is much less of a shutter. Barely noticeable. I wish i could change title of topic to "Electrical Load = Quick shutter at idle". WTH could be causing this?
    Last edited by zedjr10; 04-04-2019, 06:23 PM.

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      #3
      Honestly, I think a little shudder is normal as the engine picks up and drops electrical load. How good are the plugs, rotor, cap, wires? If the plug firing is iffy, it would be more noticeable at idle. Run a fuel injector cleaner through lately? Uneven fuel injection would contribute as well.

      The balance shafts don't completely cancel out the vibration of the crankshaft and pistons.

      Were you supporting the engine when trying to replace the driver side mount? The engine is going to sag some if you don't and the hole isn't going to line up.

      Your flywheel wouldn't necessarily need to be warped to have a shudder when you first start; some rust on the surface (if you only drive it occasionally) or uneven wear could cause it. Mine is touchier when I first start driving in the morning, then smooths out the more I drive.
      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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        #4
        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
        Honestly, I think a little shudder is normal as the engine picks up and drops electrical load. How good are the plugs, rotor, cap, wires? If the plug firing is iffy, it would be more noticeable at idle. Run a fuel injector cleaner through lately? Uneven fuel injection would contribute as well.

        The balance shafts don't completely cancel out the vibration of the crankshaft and pistons.

        Were you supporting the engine when trying to replace the driver side mount? The engine is going to sag some if you don't and the hole isn't going to line up.

        Your flywheel wouldn't necessarily need to be warped to have a shudder when you first start; some rust on the surface (if you only drive it occasionally) or uneven wear could cause it. Mine is touchier when I first start driving in the morning, then smooths out the more I drive.
        This vibration might be normal but am getting to the point of just being picky as it drives so well now. Even though that shudder is a bit more than normal i think. We will see when i change driver mount. The flywheel am so wondering about cause still debating on whether to change clutch,flywheel and rear seal when i change tranny out soon. The shudder at starts is abit annoying and am definitely leaning towards just doing it all. I cleaned my injectors a few months ago. So that should be good.

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          #5
          Remind me, your clutch doesn't have a lot of mile on it correct? Was the flywheel changed or refinished when that clutch was installed?
          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
            Remind me, your clutch doesn't have a lot of mile on it correct? Was the flywheel changed or refinished when that clutch was installed?
            Actually i am not sure if the clutch has 10k or less but the flywheel is old and should be replaced probably. It definitely hasn't been changed or refinished in at least 7-8 years. Probably alot longer. I do remember the problem that led me to believe the clutch was possibly changed. The clutch wouldn't engage no matter how far i adjusted the clutch pedal. Had to get it towed to mechanics.So that would be throw out bearing right? Clutch would of went over some time with some slipping. RIght? I paid someone to fix it and i didn't keep a record of it. Rest of car is tuned up. Just recently changed the ignition coil for the hell of it.

            Comment

              #7
              I wouldn't think the throw out bearing would have prevented the clutch from working. It wouldn't engage, or disengage? If the friction disk were worn out, the car wouldn't move. If the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder were completely shot, then you'd have trouble disengaging the clutch and changing gears.
              90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
              08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                I wouldn't think the throw out bearing would have prevented the clutch from working. It wouldn't engage, or disengage? If the friction disk were worn out, the car wouldn't move. If the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder were completely shot, then you'd have trouble disengaging the clutch and changing gears.
                He took tranny out and fixed something. That is really all i am sure of. And at the time i had little interest in car so i told him the cheapest way possible so it would run. I thought he replaced the clutch and now am assuming more that he did. The flywheel was never changed. AM pretty sure of that. I am leaning towards doing it all(tranny,clutch,pressure plate and seal). Since i will be the one doing this most likely. am a little hesitant of changing out the rear seal. I have read this takes a few tries sometimes to get right.

                Comment

                  #9
                  There are a few seal plates available on ebay (plate with seal is no longer available from Honda); you could get one and carefully change the seal in that. Down side is that replacing the plate requires the oil pan to be removed.
                  90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                  08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                    There are a few seal plates available on ebay (plate with seal is no longer available from Honda); you could get one and carefully change the seal in that. Down side is that replacing the plate requires the oil pan to be removed.
                    Is it really that tricky to change that seal from tranny side? I really need to check and make sure it is leaking first i guess by removing that plate and looking.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      I've only replaced one rear main; at the time, I bought the seal already installed in the plate. It's just that the OEM service manual is very specific about how deep in the plate it is supposed to be installed. I don't know how sensitive it really is to position - just going on your and other's comments about having to install multiple seals. I believe there is a specific tool called out in the manual, but I haven't checked to see if that is available.
                      90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                      08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
                        I've only replaced one rear main; at the time, I bought the seal already installed in the plate. It's just that the OEM service manual is very specific about how deep in the plate it is supposed to be installed. I don't know how sensitive it really is to position - just going on your and other's comments about having to install multiple seals. I believe there is a specific tool called out in the manual, but I haven't checked to see if that is available.
                        I guess i will have to find that tool if i need it. I don't want to replace it from the oil pan side if i am going to have the tranny off. I paid someone almost 3 years ago to replace oil pan gasket. I doubt he even cared to look if seal was ok even though i asked him if there is anything else to look at and change. I was thinking of paying someone to do this tranny change but he seems to think seal is easy to replace and you just pop it in there. He isn't an ex honda mechanic so he probably don't know. So that probably means i will be doing this myself somehow.
                        So back to my original topic as driving with ac on last few days it definitely shudders more than it is suppose to with electrical load cutting on. I think it might be that chinese rear mount i put in a few months ago causing this. Would a stiffer rear mount cause this? As i have no shudder when car is above 830 or so rpms. At 800 rpm idle or below it shudders. Are there any other rubber bushings besides those 4 that i am not aware of. I can not find a driver side mount at junkyard that is acceptable so i might have to bite bullet and spend 100 dollars on a oem driver side mount. As those chinese mounts from local auto stores don't even fit. The bolt holes are not right.

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