Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Where do you go for parts for your swap

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Where do you go for parts for your swap

    I have my swap just ready but I'm looking for parts in between to throw things in their proper place. For instance I'm on ebay looking for some stock injectors but there's really not a huge selection to choose from for some oem 345 cc stock h22 vtec injectors.any options or sellers who are reliable?

    #2
    Anyone got any reliable sources for d.i.y swaps

    I myself am looking for h2b swap d.i.y information with pictures. I see alot of spoken about it on the internet but not enough information on it is given or perhaps I'm searching in the wrong places.

    Comment


      #3
      I belive reason why you can't find those injectors is because factory injectors were 290cc. When it comes to looking online you have to know what you are looking for as well as the various ways you might find it as. Let me give you an example, there are alot of putz out there who spell Camaro as Camero or Accord as Acord; so you pretty much have to search under all possible combinations used for the part you need you then have to watch out for people giving wrong description of parts as i once was being sold some Roadmaster sway bar as a F body sway bar.

      Not exactly your type of car but similar enough
      http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=14774
      Last edited by Crankshaft; 06-04-2017, 11:11 PM.
      [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

      Comment


        #4
        Seems as 97 and up injectors were 290cc and under 97 they were 345cc.
        [url=https://flic.kr/p/2hFNC7Z]

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Crankshaft View Post
          Seems as 97 and up injectors were 290cc and under 97 they were 345cc.
          Yup. I believe it had to do with the 4th Gen H22s having Peak and Hold injectors, while the 5th Gen (97+) switched to saturated.


          A good option for an upgraded OEM injector is to switch to RDX (410cc) injectors. There are a few pieces you need to make it work, but its definitely cheaper than going with an aftermarket brand.

          Comment


            #6
            as far as H2B, its primarily for Civics/Integras. Its so they can utilize the H22 motor, but keep their stock "hydro" transmission (most of the good B series transmissions are not cable operated, like the Accord).

            Doing an H2B is kinda double the work in an Accord, and not worth it at all in my opinion. You have to not only run the adapter to mate the B transmission to the motor, you need custom axles ($$$$), and also figure out how to mount the Hydro shifter mechanism and route everything through the firewall. So that's why you don't see it in Accord applications.

            And frankly, the gearing on an H22 transmission is PLENTY short as is.

            Comment


              #7
              I'm pretty sure he's putting it into a Civic this time around.

              If this is all going to be OBD1, stick to the peak and hold 345cc injectors. No need to modify any more wiring than necessary. If it's OBD2, then go with the 290cc injectors, because they'll plug right up. Just remember, the peak and hold variety require a resistor box, and the saturated variety do not.
              Another option is the injectors from the Mustang GT500. Jarrett recently made a post about them being a good upgrade. Granted, you don't really need a fuel upgrade if you're not doing something that requires more fuel. Stock engines are fine with stock injectors, as more fuel does not mean more power.






              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                I'm pretty sure he's putting it into a Civic this time around.

                If this is all going to be OBD1, stick to the peak and hold 345cc injectors. No need to modify any more wiring than necessary. If it's OBD2, then go with the 290cc injectors, because they'll plug right up. Just remember, the peak and hold variety require a resistor box, and the saturated variety do not.
                Another option is the injectors from the Mustang GT500. Jarrett recently made a post about them being a good upgrade. Granted, you don't really need a fuel upgrade if you're not doing something that requires more fuel. Stock engines are fine with stock injectors, as more fuel does not mean more power.
                Most definitely this swap is going into the hatch. I have the stock h23 290cc injectors which is really not what im looking for. Its not really double the work on the hatch just time consuming having to scout for parts. I dont really want to use an ebay knock off brand that will cost me a motor which is why I'm looking for stock ones for their reliability. And you do not need custom axles for the hatch just b-series axles which I already have. I'm sorry for the confusion but this swap is not going into the cb7 it is for the eg6.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Why not just bypass the resistor box and wire up the 290cc?






                  Comment


                    #10
                    because of the placement location on the fuel line return its on the opposite side

                    Comment


                      #11
                      what about the p13 ecu which i plan on using wont that work with that?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by deevergote View Post
                        Why not just bypass the resistor box and wire up the 290cc?
                        I plan on bypassing the resistor box if I have one I'm not sure but I heard a friend of mine saying overtime it'll fry the ecu is this true

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Doesn't matter what side the fuel line is on. You either need a custom line or a new fuel rail. Makes no difference to the injectors what rail they're in.

                          Use an OBD1 P13 and bypass the resistor box. It won't fry the ECU, and it will operate the injectors properly. From what I've read, the whole thing about bypassing the box frying the ECU is a myth. It's likely that what was frying ECUs was just improper wiring.






                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X