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Old 06-06-2009, 08:44 PM   #1
lilpat93accord
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H22 Turbo Build

Ok...so i've decided to build a H22 and boost it. I plan on having it fininshed by the end of the summer. I hope to make 400whp on low boost. Here is a list of all the parts that I plan on getting for the build or already have

Head
SuperTech Valve Springs
SuperTech Valves
SuperTech Retainers

Block
Laskey Built

Benson sleeved block
Benson balanced and micropolished crank
CP pistons and rings
Pauter rods
ACL bearings
Balance shafts removed
OEM oil pump

Misc Parts
H23 Manual Tensioner-Have
ARP Head Bolts-Have
New Timing Belt-Have
New Water Pump-Have
Hondata S300

How much power do you think this build can/will produce? The turbo that i plan on getting is a Garrett GT30R. If anyone can think of anything else that would benefit my build then please let me kno.










Last edited by lilpat93accord; 02-16-2010 at 02:02 PM. Reason: pics
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:32 PM   #2
Kurobei
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilpat93accord View Post
Ok...so i've decided to build a H22 and boost it. I plan on having it fininshed by the end of the summer. I hope to make 300whp which shouldn't be too hard as i've seen stock H22s make between 250-290whp depending on their setup. Here is a list of all the parts that I plan on getting for the build

Head
Brian Crower Stage 2 Turbo Cams
Brian Crower Dual Spring & Retainers
Brian Crower 35mm Intake Valves
Brian Crower 30mm Exhaust Valves

Block
Mahle H22 Turbo Forged Pistons 10:1 Compression
Eagle H-Beam H22 Rods

Misc Parts
H23 Manual Tensioner
ARP Head Bolts (if necessary)
ACL H22 Bearings
New Timing Belt
New Water Pump
Hondata S300

I was wondering what cam gears should i get...AEM, Skunk2, or Crower...and What compression pistons should i use...I know that with the 10:1 pistons I will make more power with less boost and with the 9:1 pistons i will be able to run more boost. How much power do you think this build can/will produce? The turbo that i am looking @ is a Precision GT3561S, which someone local has for sale. If anyone can think of anything else that would benefit my build then please let me kno.
I'm pretty much in the same game as you are right now. My old cars heart is fully built as far as the bottom end goes and i'm awaiting for my head to come back from the machine shop. I'm planning to be done sometime in September if all things go smoothly. With the setup you listed, you'll more than likely make more than 300 without a hassle.

My bottom end is using JE 9:0:1 pistons and I gave it some thought and was debating on going with a 10up compression as well. I talked to my engine builder and he said the benefits of having higher compression is yeah...u can make more power with less boost. The other benefit is being able to have some power when your car is not turboed. I thought about getting 2 different tunes. One n/a and one turbo... so in the future if I ever decided to take the turbo off for maintenance or just stay N/A, I won't have a 2.2liter h22a thats huffing civic like feeling 8:xx compression making less power.

I gave it a long thought and went ahead and did the 9:0:1 because essentially "lower is safer" and more forgiving to detonation in a engine not normally factory boost ready. Also I can't see myself spending $$$ on two seperate tunes at this time on a daily driver. I figured if I ever need to do maintenance on the turbo, It probably would be a better idea to buy or upgrade the snail which will be cheaper in the longrun.

The ARP headstuds I highly recommend as it's backup insurance for the block. Honestly there is no point in reusing or buying new OEM studs (i don't know why people risk doing so) I watched my buddies turboed D16 have a nice coolant leak after a fun week 1/2 of driving (he reused his). The ARP head studs are not that much expensive compared to OEMs and way better at keeping your engines "hat" on as far as forced induction reliability. I mean you are building your block so take your time and don't skimp on anything...you might as well go all out since building a block isn't really "cheap" anyways.

It's all up to you but those are my thoughts. Look me up in the FI forum later in the year when I get closer to finishing the whole transplant.
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:40 PM   #3
Kurobei
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Oh yeah...

I'm assuming you are going to be dropping in the Mahle Gold series pistons? I didn't see anything about sleeving the block.

This was another thing I was thinking about doing but what stopped me was I had slightly scored walls. Before you order the pistons, make sure your cylinder walls are perfect because if they aren't, you will have to get your block honed and use their oversized set. I basically said screw it and paid the extra to have it resleeved.

I know Honda-tech is everyones favorite forum to read BS on, but rumors I've heard is the Mahle Gold series coating which makes it possible to drop into the H22 without sleeving doesn't last forever. I never seen picture proof of this, but that's some food for thought. Thats just another thing that can fail and nothing is failure proof. I say just resleeve and throw in some slugs and don't worry about it.


[ARTICLE]
Everyone would love to build the Honda H22, the “Big Block” of Honda engines. The problem is, Honda uses a localized fibrous matrix (FRM) to line the H22 cylinder bore. Up until now, no lightweight forged piston was available for the H22 standard bore, and while sleeves are an option they are expensive and a hit or miss installation at best. MAHLE Motorsport, the world’s piston technology leader, has the answer with its H22 GoldSeries Pistons; the only forged aluminum pistons for the H22 that do not require cylinder sleeves.

MAHLE Motorsport works this magic by coating the piston skirts with an exclusive compound that effectively wears like cast iron, protecting the piston and the cylinder from wear. MAHLE’s race proven pistons are forged from low-expansion 4032 aluminum alloy and feature ultra flat 1.2, 1.2 and 2.8mm ring grooves. CNC machined to the tightest tolerances and de-burred at the factory, these pistons are ready to drop-in right out of the box. H22 GoldSeries Pistons come complete with high-grade German steel pins and F1 inspired round wire locks.

Available in flat top and high compression dome configurations. Inverted dome available for nitrous, supercharged and turbocharged applications.

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Last edited by Kurobei; 06-07-2009 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:02 PM   #4
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Why the Crower cams, I heard they didn't make good mid range and low range power. I saw it on another thread just thought I'd mention it.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:41 PM   #5
lilpat93accord
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93F22A6 View Post
Why the Crower cams, I heard they didn't make good mid range and low range power. I saw it on another thread just thought I'd mention it.
Im going with a stock head for now
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Old 06-30-2009, 07:15 AM   #6
Kurobei
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilpat93accord View Post
Im going with a stock head for now
Noooooooo don't do that!

If you are going to build the motor, you might as well go all out now. I thought about leaving the head alone, but I figured it would be pointless in the longrun for my power goals. I wanted my engine to be done with.

Whether I boost a conservative 8psi I want the engine to be bullet proof so when I get the "tick" to go far beyond that. My engine is rated to be able to handle boost pressures up to 45psi. I don't think I would max it to that, but it's nice to know that I can go that far if I wanted.
S

Sure I can boost at say 25psi and get 420whp, but why do that when I can get the head ported and breathing better and match it up with some turbo cams and get the same power but more reliable and less stressful at say 18psi? A port and polish job can do a whole lot for your head. You can see anywhere from 30-50+ HP when mated with good valvetrain components. If you don't feel like buying cams, springs, retainers etc. The stock camshafts are still good, just make sure at least to do a mild port if anything since you are going to be moving more air around.

If the motor is going to be apart anyways, it's not hard to take the head apart and drop it off or send it to a machine shop. I took my head apart in about hour. I took my time and really explored my engine. I got a couple of ziplock bags and labeled which screws,nuts,bolts etc. go where.

If this is a budget build then I understand, just making a suggestion since I was there like 2months ago. A port n' polish job is calling you man You'll be happy you did in the longrun.
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Old 07-03-2009, 03:04 PM   #7
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Im going with a stock head for now
just do valves,springs,retainers,CHEAP but will do the trick
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