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Old 10-11-2018, 02:25 PM   #1
G. Wiffington
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Wideband dims sometimes

I thought I had this issue figured out, I guess not.

I have noticed that sometimes my AEM wideband will start to dim as if it is not
getting good voltage or maybe a bad ground.

That is probably the issue either a bad ground or voltage/wiring issue.

I have the wideband grounded at that thermostat housing (ECU ground).
& the power is going running off a quick splice connector at pin : A25
(per Xenocron DIY)

I do not think it is within the wiring of the power because I noticed the same
dimming of the wideband when I had it powered through the fusebox in the
kick panel on the driver's side. I just recently moved my power wire to
pin A25 this weekend along with installing a new alternator because I
noticed in SManager my battery voltage was only in the 11's.

But, the grounding wire I used to run to the thermostat housing is a thinner
wire (higher gauge) than what comes from the wideband. Could that be
an issue for the grounding aspect due to a thinner wire?

I did not go over all my main grounds yet but, I was just wondering if you
guys had any ideas or input?
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Old 10-20-2018, 10:44 AM   #2
G. Wiffington
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So I went ahead & redid the ground for my wideband.
I removed the extended wire that was connected to the ground wire & just
ran that wire straight to the main ground (thermostat ground).

I have not been able to drive the car to see if this has solved my issue but,
hopefully it does.
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Old 10-31-2018, 03:39 PM   #3
G. Wiffington
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Well I still had a weird dimming issue on the Wideband. I think I have finally
resolved my issue. I went back & cleaned up all of my grounding locations.
I think I should probably do a larger gauge wiring on the ground points for
the valve cover, power steering bracket, & the driver's side mounting point.

I wanted to redo those grounds but I wasn't sure how to properly do it
since it seems like two wires meet at a single ring terminal.

Would it be okay to have two separate grounds overlapping each other at the
point they would meet when bolted to the chassis?
For example, two separate wires..one bolts to the P.S. Bracket, the other to the valve cover
& they both meet together at a terminal ring bolted to the chassis with the
same bolt? Is that alright to do? I am trying to learn more about electrical.

I had some 4 gauge wiring in my garage so I added a ground from the
trans to the chassis & also a ground from the Intake Manifold to the chassis.

My car actually seems to idle a lot better now. Before this I was having
an issue where I would have to keep adjusting my fuel map for my idle
because it would change sometimes.

I hope this fixes my wideband dimming!
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Old 10-31-2018, 06:03 PM   #4
Raf99
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Hey. I have the same setup as you.

1. You were correct, don't short out on the grounds (ie - use wrong gauge)
2. Overlapping ground connectors is fine

Have a volt meter in the cabin? Get a cheap one on ebay that plugs in to the cig. lighter. Or if you know your voltage is good then it sounds like a fried logic board on the gauge itself. Only other thing I can think of is sometimes people use a ring/crimp end on the wire/thermostat end. The metal is thin and from bending begins to crack. Un-noticable to the eye but causes issues.
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Old 11-02-2018, 04:59 PM   #5
G. Wiffington
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Sweet!

Okay cool, I think I should use a larger gauge for those driver side grounds.
Okay thank you for confirming that, I originally put it together overlapping but,
I thought it looked very strange & did not want to take the chance & run
the car with grounds overlapping.

I do not have actual volt meter in my car but, I usually have my laptop
connected so I can see all my readings on that.
voltage always stays constant even when I see my wideband dimming.

I was also thinking that I might have somehow messed up the wiring for the
actual wideband itself.

So, you know how you obviously have to screw the wideband into the bung
you are using? well a while ago I was VERY dumb & was reinstalling my
sensor, screwing it in, & I was twisting up the wires not realizing it.
I kinda have a feeling I may have messed up the wiring right before the
wideband sensor.

even after going over my grounds a few times, changing the grounding
for the wideband itself I still got the same results.

BUT, I did clean up some of the grounds a few days ago but have not driven
it yet to confirm.
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Old 11-03-2018, 01:57 PM   #6
Raf99
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Sounds like a bad gauge. I'd take it out, inspect the logic board, etc. Try applying 12V to the positive wire on a bench, see if you can make it dim.
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Old 11-16-2018, 03:44 PM   #7
G. Wiffington
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Sorry I missed that last post.

So I went ahead & swapped in another sensor & it seems that my problem
has disappeared. I guess that it was something in the wiring of the sensor.
I feel like I caused the problem when I twisted up the wires too much screwing
the sensor into the bung.

Problem has been resolved : bad wideband sensor &/or sensor wiring.
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Old 11-16-2018, 04:17 PM   #8
Raf99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G. Wiffington View Post
Sorry I missed that last post.

So I went ahead & swapped in another sensor & it seems that my problem
has disappeared. I guess that it was something in the wiring of the sensor.
I feel like I caused the problem when I twisted up the wires too much screwing
the sensor into the bung.

Problem has been resolved : bad wideband sensor &/or sensor wiring.
Good choice too. You never know if it could / may have affected your A/F readings...
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Old 11-20-2018, 02:10 PM   #9
G. Wiffington
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I know, that is exactly what I worried about. I am glad I figured
it out. I kinda had a feeling that was the issue because when I
first noticed to dimming a few months ago it was after I reinstalled
the sensor back into the bung.
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