90' EX Sedan Transmission Problems

[mitsubishiv5]

make sure the vss is faulty before doing more maintainance on the car. also try doing an automatic transmission flush. usually costs 15.00 for 3 quarts of transmission fluid from honda

[DiscoDinosaur]

Just installed the VSS and the master cylinder, and I can say the brakes work 200% better. The VSS worked for a few minutes around the block, and quit again. We got it home and I checked the codes again and got another code 4 and a code 15.

We didn't pull the negative cable off and reset the codes after we installed the VSS, but the code 15 means "kick down switch circuit shorted."

I'm not entirely sure what that means at this time but I'll research it when I get on my own computer.

Any ideas, folks?

[DiscoDinosaur]

Nobody seems to know what a kickdown switch is or where it's located on any year Accord, but after researching on a few different websites, I may have found some possible solutions.

Some people said to pull off the solenoids and give them a thorough cleaning, and to test their ohms. Others say to "clean the copper parts in the console" by the S3/S4 switch. I'm honestly not sure what that means, but it sounds logical. I'm hoping it's not the solenoid because even with my dad's discounted price, they're still gonna cost me around $160 each. (not sure if there's one or two)

I'm at the point where I'm about to just say "Screw it" and pull a transmission from the u-pull-it and see if that changes anything. Chances are, whatever part is bad on my current transmission will be attached to the newer transmission. (sort of like the way the VSS is attached)

Looking forward to some input, guys. Don't let my CB7 die on me.

[google123]

1990 Accord EX Sedan 256K miles....

My VSS just started giving me problems on my way to work earlier today. Transmission jerks, S light blinking, speedometer not working or showing random speeds. Checked the codes while at work and got a code 4 from the S light and a code 17 from the CEL. I replaced the VSS with an ebay unit almost 2 years ago and appears to have failed. I will probably go the eBay route again though.

Disco, are you sure your code 15 is from the S light and not from the CEL? Reason I ask is because I was reading this thread over at Honda-Tech where someone posted about the kickdown switch and it turns out his code was a code 15 from the CEL not a code 15 from the S light.

http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1802192

[Losiracer2]

I had this happen to me, maybe it could be your problem w/ the VSS, so here goes.

Try checking the connector for the VSS itself. Make sure the white piece is still inside separating the wires and that you have the rubber gasket. The white piece in mine was missing and probably causing the wires to short out or ground out causing my Code 17 for VSS. I went through 3 VSS' before I figured out the connector was probably at fault and sure enough I got another from the JY and compared them and swapped the white insert and I don't have any problems anymore, speedo works.

[google123]

I had this happen to me, maybe it could be your problem w/ the VSS, so here goes.

Try checking the connector for the VSS itself. Make sure the white piece is still inside separating the wires and that you have the rubber gasket. The white piece in mine was missing and probably causing the wires to short out or ground out causing my Code 17 for VSS. I went through 3 VSS' before I figured out the connector was probably at fault and sure enough I got another from the JY and compared them and swapped the white insert and I don't have any problems anymore, speedo works.

Thanks for the info. Also, is there a fuse that I can check for this circuit? Will definitely give the sensor a real good look-over once I get home from work in the AM.

[F22BPR]

Disco, That happens to me.

First, it was slipping when shifts 2nd to 3rd. Then, when was running, it didn't shift and stays on neutral, but I restart the engine and It applied the gears. Cleaned the solenoids, nothing. One day It didn't grab the gears no more. Changed the solenoids, nothing. I had to repair the tranny, changing the Kit (The mechanic reccommends me the Borg warner one), the filter and the converter. I had to change the starter also. It was a nightmare.

Now, 1yr later, it's throwing the codes 7 and 10. It shifts from 1 to 3rd at d3 or d4. Brand new solenoids cost an eye of my face.
And TODAY, after fixing some electric details at the doors, and correct the idling speed like the DIY, the speed gauge gone crazy, I don't know why.

My friend, I sincerely recommend you, make the swap to manual.

[DiscoDinosaur]

Disco, are you sure your code 15 is from the S light and not from the CEL?

I'm pretty sure it's the TCU, unless the check engine light is under my carpet on the passenger side. My TCU has a little red LED on the top right ( or left, I can't remember) corner, so that's where I've been reading the codes from. I haven't even thought to check the CEL codes yet, so I'll actually go do that next time I step out for a cigarette.

First, it was slipping when shifts 2nd to 3rd. Then, when was running, it didn't shift and stays on neutral, but I restart the engine and It applied the gears.

My friend, I sincerely recommend you, make the swap to manual.

That's actually exactly what's happening to me. I'm really curious as to what the problem might be, because quite a few people seem to have varying shifting problems. It HAS to be an electrical problem, so I'm thinking I should check all my connections. The problem with that is, I have no idea where to start looking. I suppose I could start with the solenoids, but where would I go from there?

It seems like this car turned out to be more trouble than it's worth, but I'm still gonna give it my best shot. I'm taking the car to my dad's shop this weekend (finally) and we're gonna pull the transmission out and check it for unusual wear and things like that, and while I'm at it, I'll check all the connectors on the harness to see if they might be faulty.

Try checking the connector for the VSS itself. Make sure the white piece is still inside separating the wires and that you have the rubber gasket.

My new VSS came with the white plastic piece inside, although I'm not sure I saw a rubber gasket. I put some dielectric grease inside the connector to ensure a proper connection, but I don't think that would be a problem. Then again, I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to just about everything automotive related.


*EDIT* I checked the CEL, and no codes flashed. It could be because I haven't driven it since I cleared the codes, or maybe I jumped the connector pins wrong. I noticed that when I jumped the pins, the CEL and other cluster lights would stay on, but when I pull my screwdriver out, it shuts off. At first I thought it was throwing a code, but then I realized I just wasn't keeping the screwdriver on the pins tightly enough.