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Odd Slit/Dent @ Tranny/Mount intersect

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    #16
    I'd like to add that replacing a rear main seal is not an easy job, ESPECIALLY if you don't have the proper tools and have never done it before. To add, once you start opening things up you may find more things that need replacing (clutch fork bearing/release bearing, clutch, flywheel, etc.) and the car has to be high enough to get the trans out from the bottom. Also if you run into issues (lower ball joint won't release, stripped bolts, etc. you'll be praying as you then won't be able to move the car. 2-3 hours, maybe for someone who has done it before (no offense fleetw00d).

    - Got a good jack, and jack stands?
    - Got a torque wrench (short and long) and lock tight?
    - Got transmission fluid?
    - You'll have to remove axle nuts, are they seized? Have a 21mm? socket?

    etc....


    I'd leave that leak until it gets worse. Keep putting oil in it, save up some money. If this is an older car you'll be replacing more parts than the main seal.

    Comment


      #17
      The most intensive thing I have done is a headgasket on a D series motor. However I have done everything myself to my ride if you check the beginner images thread.

      I have all the tools.

      This will just be a long project because I know it needs the lower ball joints, oil pan, and I have an odd squeak when I push in my clutch from the motor compartment.


      Back to the manual part, which I dont have. Should I just grab an accord manual?

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        #18
        Originally posted by WagonMafia206 View Post
        The most intensive thing I have done is a headgasket on a D series motor. However I have done everything myself to my ride if you check the beginner images thread.

        I have all the tools.

        This will just be a long project because I know it needs the lower ball joints, oil pan, and I have an odd squeak when I push in my clutch from the motor compartment.


        Back to the manual part, which I dont have. Should I just grab an accord manual?
        Ok cool. Umm... I think any manual should do. Same bolts, same spots, same axles, etc.

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
          2-3 hours, maybe for someone who has done it before (no offense fleetw00d).
          None taken. I know I would take longer because I try to clean things up as I go (and I've done it before!). I figured if I put longer someone would say "I can do that job in X hours ...".
          90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
          08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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            #20
            When reinstalling the rear plate, which Hondabond do you use HT or 4 or would Ultra Grey work?

            YouTube Clicky!!

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              #21
              If it were me, I would remove the access plate, thoroughly clean/degrease the entire area and keep a keen eye on the leak. You never know, I've seen oil pan leaks look just like that. Start with the simplest thing first, you have nothing to lose by just simply cleaning and watching the leak closely as the weeks go on.

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
                When reinstalling the rear plate, which Hondabond do you use HT or 4 or would Ultra Grey work?
                The 93 OEM manual says 08718-0001 Hondabond HT, but Majestic indicates it has been superseded.
                90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Granite CB7 View Post
                  If it were me, I would remove the access plate, thoroughly clean/degrease the entire area and keep a keen eye on the leak. You never know, I've seen oil pan leaks look just like that. Start with the simplest thing first, you have nothing to lose by just simply cleaning and watching the leak closely as the weeks go on.
                  Ive been told its only a few bolts to get the plate off correct? I know my pan is leaking for sure because it has oil all around it on/below the gasket. I think this is the route I will go. But I did buy the car like this so who knows.

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                    #24
                    I just took one off, three 10 mm head bolts if I remember correctly. The pan is relatively easy. Make sure all the spacers into the pan gasket come off; before I started doing all my own work, I had a pan gasket replaced and one spacer stuck to the block. I was lucky I had any oil in it all when I got home.
                    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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