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Building a Turbo F22; Questions

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    Building a Turbo F22; Questions

    Good afternoon Cb7tuner,

    Had just a few questions in regards to getting our engines ready for boost.
    Original plan was stock block ~8psi 150hp. Figured if i was 5spd swapping my current cb, as well as installing an Mfactory LSD on the F trans, that I might as well just do a full build and make it 100%.

    So far i'm looking at:
    Port/Polish on Head
    Bisimoto's Level 1.2 Turbo Re-grind,
    Pro Springs,
    Bisimoto's 86mm 9.1:1 Forged pistons / H beams (rings and all),
    Turbonetics T3/T4 T04E Turbo,

    I know Ill probably need injectors/pump but I couldn't decide on a decent set.
    Is 250hp/270tq an unreasonable number with these? Also. Fully commited on the SOHC Turbo.

    #2
    Originally posted by CbNewbie View Post
    Good afternoon Cb7tuner,

    Had just a few questions in regards to getting our engines ready for boost.
    Original plan was stock block ~8psi 150hp. Figured if i was 5spd swapping my current cb, as well as installing an Mfactory LSD on the F trans, that I might as well just do a full build and make it 100%.

    So far i'm looking at:
    Port/Polish on Head
    Bisimoto's Level 1.2 Turbo Re-grind,
    Pro Springs,
    Bisimoto's 86mm 9.1:1 Forged pistons / H beams (rings and all),
    Turbonetics T3/T4 T04E Turbo,

    I know Ill probably need injectors/pump but I couldn't decide on a decent set.
    Is 250hp/270tq an unreasonable number with these? Also. Fully commited on the SOHC Turbo.

    Well some of these items are not required and some are. But at the same time if you have the engine open, you may as well replace some parts. To my knowledge head work is not required for your HP goals, but the bottom end is. Have you seen other folks setup on here?

    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=190348

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
      Well some of these items are not required and some are. But at the same time if you have the engine open, you may as well replace some parts. To my knowledge head work is not required for your HP goals, but the bottom end is. Have you seen other folks setup on here?

      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=190348
      A List I wouldn't try to be on

      Looking at some of those/ most only did bottom end work. Is that because the f22's head flows good enough as it is? I'm seeing mid 300's on just bottom ends. Will likely stick to just the bottom end / fuel upgrades for the time being.

      Comment


        #4
        Yes the head with a mild port n polish will outflow an h22a head. Not needed though for your goals. If your looking for a regrind I would recommend either going with web or delta cam. Cost a fraction of the price and produces the same results and they are trustworthy.

        As for fuel you will need at least a set of blue top 450cc or just go ahead and get ID800cc injectors. Fuel pump would be a good idea as well. A walbro 255lph will suffice.

        Turbonetics is a good brand, however they can be expensive. You should look into Borg Warner, Holset, or Garrett.

        You will also need to upgrade your clutch. OEM clutch will not last long. While your building the bottom end I would highly recommend replacing all the gaskets and belts as well.
        ~Nick~
        FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
        MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

        Comment


          #5
          Ya, what he said. Bottom components as they will break and other components to make it work (fuel, air, good fire). Head work and port and polishes are not needed at this stage.

          Comment


            #6
            Like everyone else said you definitely do not need the top end parts for your power goals. A stock f22 head will easily get you into the 350-400whp range. However, unless you plan on staying at 250whp for a while, I would suggest getting at least 800cc injectors. By doing so, you’ll have some room for growth when you’re ready to turn up the boost. I would also apply the same line of thinking when choosing your clutch. Overdoing it a little can sometimes help you avoid spending money twice.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Grumpys93 View Post
              Yes the head with a mild port n polish will outflow an h22a head. Not needed though for your goals. If your looking for a regrind I would recommend either going with web or delta cam. Cost a fraction of the price and produces the same results and they are trustworthy.

              As for fuel you will need at least a set of blue top 450cc or just go ahead and get ID800cc injectors. Fuel pump would be a good idea as well. A walbro 255lph will suffice.

              Turbonetics is a good brand, however they can be expensive. You should look into Borg Warner, Holset, or Garrett.

              You will also need to upgrade your clutch. OEM clutch will not last long. While your building the bottom end I would highly recommend replacing all the gaskets and belts as well.

              I actually just purchased a set of 450cc bluetops. Will look into the Walbro pump you mentioned. Have continued reading around and picking up things as I go. Going to go with an exedy clutch, as the reviews I've seen for the cost, are pretty decent. Everyone seems mixed between ACT/Exedy.
              All gaskets that I can see, or even get at while I'm there, will be replaced, with fresh belts.

              Comment


                #8
                Personally I think with a built bottom end you could just grab a dsm setup with a 16g and be able to make your goals. It has been a few years but there was a dyno sheet on here that had that exact setup. As for the cam I would do as grumpy said and go delta or web. My delta cams in my ecotec have proved to be good.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Update- I have delved deep into the research world and come back with many new things. Helped out in the long run. So Im back with an update on what I've gotten/done
                  Purchased Arias 9.1:1 86mm pistons. Got the block cleaned (wow a difference )bored to 86mm with the pistons + rings gapped. Crank was polished and balanced. Went ahead and installed the 450cc injectors that I had. I have EVERY gasket I'll need, as well as a plethora of assorted seals.
                  Right now, pistons are installed just waiting on putting the crank back in this week. Still sticking with a stock F head as I feel that my goals shouldn't be more then that's capable of. As for engine management, I have chosen Crome on a p28 - Hondata's features are cool, but most of them I don't even really need.
                  Still need a clutch, flywheel, shifter cables, a chipped p28, oil and a filter.
                  With everything I've got above, do you guys still think the goal of 250hp is attainable? Power isn't everything to me, but I know the F has potential. Excited to see mine run.
                  Last edited by CbNewbie; 02-12-2020, 04:32 PM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Sounds great. 250HP with no turbo on the car, naa. 250HP with a turbo... oh ya & then some. But know your goal, drive another turbo 90's car. It will make a difference when you start putting $ in to parts. In some cases wanting more HP after you reached 250 means different fuel pump, injectors, or WG sizing and exhaust , clutch, etc.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Raf, speaks the truth. It may be worth buying slightly superior parts now, to give you the opportunity later to increase the power without having to buy a new product to allow you to reach those new goals. Chrome is a good software, especially since it’s free. However chrome does have its limitations and finding a tuner now a days who messes with chrome could be hard to find.

                      As for oil I recommend Joe Gibbs “Driven” break in oil. You can get it at summit and it’s not too badly priced. Then for a filter, use a cheap filter for initial warm up along with conventional oil. Then once you have the engine warmed up, drain the oil, install a s2000 oil filter and the break in oil.
                      ~Nick~
                      FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                      MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Might have to look into the break in oil, I was thinking about that because its a fresh rebuild. As for prepping, I was planning on going a little over what i was looking for. Learned the hard way do it right the first time. Will be going boost so raf count on seeing some numbers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Oh man its been awhile

                          As of 5/5/20 the accord finally ran again.
                          She sounded great! no leaks, rattles, unusual spikes!

                          I will post photos once shes ready to hit the streets again.
                          but heres what i ended up going with on my setup. (Goal is 275 now )

                          +1mm bore f22a (86mm)
                          Arias 9.1:1 86mm Forged Pistons
                          Eagle H Beam Rods
                          450cc Black tops
                          Phearable's Chipped ECU
                          ACT Stage 3 MS 6 Puck Clutch kit
                          cxracing .50ar .63turbine
                          Refreshed head
                          All new gaskets and seals

                          I'm excited to drive her but still need to button her up.
                          Break in process soon!
                          Last edited by CbNewbie; 05-05-2020, 01:11 PM. Reason: clutch

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by CbNewbie View Post
                            Oh man its been awhile

                            As of 5/5/20 the accord finally ran again.
                            She sounded great! no leaks, rattles, unusual spikes!

                            I will post photos once shes ready to hit the streets again.
                            but heres what i ended up going with on my setup. (Goal is 275 now )

                            +1mm bore f22a (86mm)
                            Arias 9.1:1 86mm Forged Pistons
                            Eagle H Beam Rods
                            450cc Black tops
                            Phearable's Chipped ECU
                            ACT Stage 3 MS 6 Puck Clutch kit
                            cxracing .50ar .63turbine
                            Refreshed head
                            All new gaskets and seals

                            I'm excited to drive her but still need to button her up.
                            Break in process soon!
                            Nice to see someone return with good news and a turbo setup! Sweet setup. So you know you'll always want more now This is a manual I'm assuming?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yes. Car was just swapped to auto during this. Actually used a guide one off the DIY forums. First motor build / trans work ive ever done. And hearing it run made me feel even better. The nausea before the first crank . Using ACT's Stage 3 MS 6puck Clutch kit. It feels great and Im glad i know the clutch will hold much more then id ever need it to.
                              Thanks again to everyone who contributed!

                              Comment

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