The STILL don't know what I'm doing 5spd/jdm swap build thread!

[moore]

its a usdm h22a4, bought it from someone off craigslist for 500.

Now I need to figure everything needed for the obd2 swap. From what I understand I can use that engine harness? I'll need obd1 h22a injectors, the rywire jumper harness, and the whole distributor situation confuses the hell out of me

[wagon-r]

$500? First thing I would do is a leakdown test, to see if the engine is already worn out.

[Mishakol129]

Yeah definitely, leak down test. There's a lot more prep that has to go into these engines than ppl might think. The auto tension for instance, if its not low mileage I'd definitely think of changing to a manual version or a KS tuned version, or you could fabricate your own if you want to save the 125 dollars KS tuned is asking for it.

A rebuild with new oversize pistons would be a good idea too depending on the leak down test. If you don't want to do that I'd suggest you part out the engine piece by piece on ebay, you will make more than 500 from all those parts if you do it right.

[moore]

Woah woah woah slow down guys, we went from 0-100 real quick. From me just getting the motor to parting it out/dropping dumb money on a rebuild lmao. This motor was out of a 98 prelude that was a rear hit which was perfect. I was able to see/hear the motor running in the car which as you all know isn't a perfect indication of condition of an engine but certainly much more of a satisfying guarantee than some website that buys motors from several thousand miles away and throws them in a shed gives.

I'm definately gonna go through and replace seals/wear items and probably will end up ordering the auto tensioner just because.

I'll get a better look at everything in the next few weeks as far as condition of the motor, I'm having a friend whose more familiar with that type of deal help me out with that

[Mishakol129]

Haha, sorry. I was just saying. How many miles on the car? That's usually a good indication and if it leaks oil... i really wouldn't use the auto tensioner based on what I've heard people say about them. Honestly I would do that hack with the current tensioner because hey at 4 bucks how can you beat it. KS tuned wants 125 for the tiny "billet aluminum" piece and Honda wants 80 for their "fail prone" auto tensioner. But do what you want I'm just giving advice.

[moore]

No don't get me wrong I appreciate it, just starting off with a complete rebuild is a bit hardcore lol. To be honest I haven't looked much into the ks tensioner, it is really expensive and I don't have much in to this motor to be that worried about protecting it. And on the other hand I do work for honda so I can get the factory auto tensioner pretty cheap. I like cheap...the whole idea behind me getting this car is to drive it instead of my other more expensive cars lol

[moore]

Soooooooooooo got rid of that junk looking motor, pulled the vc and did not like what I saw. Bought a lower mile jdm h22a instead




Rust on flywheel because i drove it home in the bed of my truck in a pretty bad storm. Was covered by a tarp but didnt really help it...oh well I have 2 more flywheels lol

Also it came with a aem fuel rail and unknown injectors...he said they were h23 injectors but they require a resistor so ???? no sure how to make this work...was really hoping to go with stock rails/injectors



and came with the distributor I think I need also

[preludeNinja]

The Vette is peeking into that photo real nice haha but good luck with the build man!

[wagon-r]

H23 injectors are the same as F22a injectors. They won't work on an H22.

Different years and models used resistors. Either can work, just need to wire them up properly.

[moore]

Aww drats! Looks like 450 dsm injectors will have to do.

Clutch line and jumper harness came in


Last thing I need is an ecu, waited last to get this because I kept changing my mind on the setup but I have everything else now so I'm gonna order that in the next couple days. Probably gonna go with phearable unless someone else has any other reccomendations? I'm open to any options...everyone seems to cost the same

[moore]

Got a little bit done today..

[moore]

Nothing much new just dragging ass and waiting on parts. Won't be the cleanest swap but I'm taking my time to make it reliable as possible because I'm gonna daily this and sell my truck when it's done.

Here's a pic of the newer motor on a stand


Gonna re-seal, do timing belt and water pump while it's out. Ordered the ks tuned tensioner so that should be in monday, I guess I'll start tearing it down. Also have a shitload of oem honda seals laying around waiting to go on to...


Here's me using my useless lowered truck lol
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/447/1...7ec71073_b.jpg

theres a trans, a jack and some stands in there too...was also time tires and other shit in there before we dropped things off at storage

[moore]

She's ready to go in. Well...the motor is sitting in the car...just not bolting in. Spent most of the day out in the hot ass son trying to wrestle it in there and well, I lost that fight. Oh well back at it next weekend. Still gotta do the wiring and find the h22 prelude power steering parts so I can keep that. Also have to source spindles for the roh conversion up front and a bunch of other little shit. So maybe I'll have an update for you guys next weekend??? Pisses me off that the motor is literally sitting in the car but I couldn't get it bolted in. I just want to drive this thing so bad!!

[cb9love]

Looks like your making good progress with your swap. you should be a happy man when its all bolted up and railing corners.
Power steering really is only needed when in a parking lot or parallel parking.
When we(me and my bro) did my first swap it was a bit of a bitch to get everyrthing to line up and bolt in.
When we (me and my other bros) did the second swap i made sure i angled the trans side in first so it was in its mount bracket on the car then slowly lowered it on to the rear bracket then finally setting it down on the drivers side bracket.angler like this /

[moore]

The motors in...well the rear motor mount is like a few cm off so the bolt won't go in...everything needs to be hooked up. Almost there but I have zero motivation...like if someone were to slap a few hundred bucks in front of my face for this thing I'd probably take it lol. Last update for a while, I'm over it