ok so i want DRLs really bad ive been tryin to figure out how to make my high beams runs at half the intesity but i came up with nothing. I know it has to do with voltage, so does anyone know how to turn regular high beams into DRLs?
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1992 Honda Accord Lx
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You can't run regular highs with low voltage, you need to get the DRL's of the Canadian CB's...or you can get it from any other honda, but you might require some modding tho. (its like a little voltage box).
Or you can just disconnect the low beams and keep turn you high beems on.
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"I ran open header once, it was sooooo loud little kids were running for cover as I was cruising at 2000rpms. That was enough to know I shouldn't floor it." -
ok but where am i supposed to get those from, i checked ebay i couldnt find anything. is there a diy? i want them because i want to b able to drive with my HIDs and yellow highs on, but without the yellows outshining the HIDs1992 Honda Accord Lx
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from what Ive heard, you cant just get the DRL relay from a Canadian cb, you would need the entire Canadian interior harness and run the wire from the fuse box in addition to the relay...
Originally posted by slammed4thgenComment
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that would really sucks assOriginally posted by busak87 View Post1992 Honda Accord Lx
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DRLs
I have a 93 CB7 from Canada. the DRL light is on so the lights will only come on when i manually turn them on. i want to do the same thing with my HIDs once i get them installed. anybody know how to fix the DRL light problem?? i know the reg cb7s dont have the drl relayComment
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DRL Fun
You can either find a Honda/Acura DRL Unit on eBay/Craigslist/Classified/etc. or use two Honda 6-pin Relays. Each relay (one for each headlight) will provide 12v at 10A to its respective headlight while the Combination Light Switch is off. The voltage will have to be regulated, so I would suggest repinning the Interior Fuse/Relay Box to accomidate the new circuit rather than running a wire from the battery which is a bad idea for this application. The relays will have to tie into the Combination Light Switch so that voltage to the headlights is interupted: power from your new fused link for DRL, power from the Headlight circuit for Headlights on. Having the DRL Unit has only two advantages: DRLs off with the Parking Brake applied, and if the DRLs fail to operate correctly the unit will turn on the DRL indicator light on your dash. Downside to the unit: there are 30+ components that all can fail at some point in time, but only the two Fujitsu relays switch voltage sources on the headlights, the rest are to do the two things I listed above. Of course, repair is easy since the components are cheap and plentiful, see your local Radio Shack or online retailer.Originally posted by P3dr0 View Post
You can run "regular" highs with low voltage. You are right, there is some wiring to run and re-route to make the DRL unit work. Keeping the high beams on constantly at full power is a bad idea, if that's what you suggested.Originally posted by pedroalcala View Post
You do not need the entire harness, you only need the unit and the connector that goes into the unit. Infact, and don't quote me on this 'cause I have not verified it, the connector may actually be the same connector used on the 1994-97 Honda Accord Power Door Lock Control Unit. So the connector may be sourced from any 5th gen Accord and the unit will have to come from a DRL Unit equipped Honda/Acura. I think, again this is unconfirmed info, newer Honda/Acuras use a low-voltage (3-5 volts at ?? amperes) multiplexer unit to control the DRL functions and therefore their units would fail in our higher voltage circuits: 12 volts at 7.5 amperes for DRL control.Originally posted by busak87 View Post
You need to pull the unit and inspect it for dry solder or damaged components. If you find a damaged component, list its position on the board in this thread and IM me*. I will come back and list its specs here.Originally posted by mastajay723 View Post
* for some reason, I loose threads on this site easily. You guys stay busy.Last edited by James Matteu; 04-19-2010, 11:22 AM.1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuComment
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KeepinItClean | EnviousFilms | NoBigDeal | YET2BSCENE | .· ` ' / ·. | click here.
Originally posted by JarrettComment
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^^^^^^Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms. ^^^^^^^
Links to my rides :
1992 Accord EX*
1990 Accord EX
1991 Accord SE (4th)
1991 Accord SE (3rd)
1991 Accord SE (2ND)
1991 Accord SEComment
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no update?1997 Honda Accord EX-V6:
C27A4 - 2.7-liter 90º-V6 with SOHC, 24-valves, PGM-Fi
MPZA - Electronically controlled 4-speed automatic, 1 reverse
~170 cu. in. / ~170 ft. lbs. / ~170 whp
Originally posted by James MatteuComment
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Dammit. I searched Thread titles; "DRL" and got a bunch. timmy0tool even did a write-up using Insight modules.
KeepinItClean | EnviousFilms | NoBigDeal | YET2BSCENE | .· ` ' / ·. | click here.
Originally posted by JarrettComment
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just a note.. my '90 EX has full-intensity lows as DRLs. the light switch literally does nothing. the lows are always on regardless of switch position unless the engine is started with the parking brake up.
My Cars: 2006 Ford Freestyle - 1990 Accord EX - 2001 Accord EXV6 Coupe - 1967 Impala "Metallicar" (for the wife)
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just an idea
you could always drill a small hole in the housing of your highs, then insert a wutever color u want led(s) in and a seperate switch to run them.. light should come out reflecting just the same.. idk that for a fact, but hypothetically?
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yea ive seen it done before actually. i might try that1992 Honda Accord Lx
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