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Old 06-01-2018, 10:47 AM   #41
dhill_cb7
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: D-Hill
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Very nice CB thusfar. I presume the guy broke the cotter pin and decided to use a piece of stray wire to fill the void.

Probably not the best idea but I'm honestly not surprised.
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Old 08-15-2018, 10:42 PM   #42
wtfisafleek
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Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Mesquite, TX
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Just a little update: I went the easy route and bought a couple of quickstruts for the front end as the old struts were a bit worn out. These cars are a bit bouncy on the front end and the old ones were just a bit moreso, not to mention very squeaky. If anything I can rule out any of those components contributing to my current camber problem on the front passenger wheel.

On that note, I ordered a set of radius rod bushings to top off all the suspension work I've done. Every moving component in the front suspension has been replaced except for those. I realize these will probably only correct my caster, but I can't address everything at once. My caster is about 1.5 degrees out on both front wheels for those of you taking score at home.

Moog part K9733 is the kit for the bushings. Curiously they're very hard, and manufactured in 2017 so they're fresh. They weren't advertised as a stiffer part but they are here and I'm installing them. For the women out there following along, you'll need a different part number:

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My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=209871
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Old 08-16-2018, 12:34 PM   #43
Grumpys93
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Lmao! With the Men’s title.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:55 PM   #44
wtfisafleek
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RADIUS ROD BUSHINGS: OMG I don't know if those were totally the wrong bushings that were installed on my car or they were just too soft, but these blue Moogs (and possibly one other thing) have almost 100% stabilized this car.

Now given, there's a lot of suspension bits to remove before you can get the rod out and maybe I corrected a misinstallation somehow. The only thing I found wrong IMO was there was a washer at the base of one, just one, of the rods. It was 3.3mm thick, 28mm diameter.

The design of the Moog bushing was totally different than the black ones on the car, as well some of the key measurements. The Moog bushings were stiffer for sure. They were also taller and more conical. They did have the same inner/outer diameters. The bushings I took our were in very good shape - no rips or tears, not cracked or rubbed away. Fasteners were tight. Here's the ones I took out, and the offending washer.



I'm not necessarily interested in any handling theory, but mechanically what is the effect of adding that one washer? I'm thinking it creates less caster.

The combo of the bushings and removing that washer has restored my confidence in the front end. I can go 70mph without excess vibration or the car wandering into the next lane within 2 seconds if I let go. The self-centering has also improved, like when exiting a turn and you just let the wheel slide through your hands to center up.

I find it hard to believe just any caster adjustment these parts made had much affect on the camber. However it may have been so out of whack that it multiplied my problem with the camber. I think the problem with the bushings may have been twofold.
1. Possibly wrong bushings, or installed incorrectly
2. The washer was throwing off the right side even more than the right. I'm not sure why they would've put that washer in w/o a matching one on the driver's side. My only guess is the car possibly had very bad ball joints on the passenger side at one point and someone installed the washer thinking that would improve it.

Now I just need to get the camber corrected somehow on that right side and I think she'll track straight.
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My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=209871

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 08-17-2018 at 05:42 PM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 12:07 PM   #45
wtfisafleek
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Just a little update on my alignment: I ended up taking the car to another shop for the alignment. From the get go my confidence level with these guys was good, as the lead guy I spoke to at the front desk told me he used to work at the Honda dealership when these were new, so I think he knows his stuff.

I explained the situation with the car, what I'd done, what I wanted done, etc. and they said they'd get it done, with the usual caveats that camber isn't designed to be adjustable. I told them I understood that for now that wasn't as much of a priority since the car won't track straight at all.

The printout they gave me showed these values:


Everything is much better, and the car tracks dead straight. Note that this is my second attempt at alignment, and I have no explanation as to why the toe in the rear is so far off after being at -.16 on the right after my last alignment. I've made no adjustments or worked on the rear at all since my last trip to the shop. I'm also perplexed as to how the front right toe's initial value before adjustment was -.32 when the sheet they showed me at the first shop showed it was within spec. Along with the way I was spoken to by their manager at the desk, this result tells me not to go back to that shop.

As for the front, I did change the radius rod bushings and removed the washer from the right hand side, ignorant that there should be one in there from the factory. What I should have done was add a washer to the left side, and caster would most likely be just within range at 2.1 degrees positive caster if the washers do in fact add about .4 degrees positive.

I do plan to do that, but I need to address some bad bushings in the rear first. Actually I'm just replacing all the components back there like I did the front.

After experiencing the improvement in how the front end felt just with the poly RR bushings, I'm wondering what the rear would feel like with poly bushings? I may go this route. My neighbor has a press that would make switching them out easy.
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My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=209871

Last edited by wtfisafleek; 09-05-2018 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 09-05-2018, 05:17 PM   #46
fleetw00d
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The washers are for adjusting caster. It is entirely possible that one wasn't needed on one side. Removing washers increases caster - installing washers decreases caster so I don't think you want to install one on the left side. If you don't have a washer on the right side, the only way to increase caster is to cut back the shoulder on the rod to allow it to be pulled further forward relative to the bushings. You could try loosening the entire front cross member and pulling it forward (undo the radius rod nuts first).
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