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    manual transmission stops pulling

    My 91 ex has started acting up, i can be driving along and suddenly the car stops pulling and the rpms shoot up. When this happens, doesn't matter what gear i put it in, the car won't pull. I found that if I pumped the clutch the tranny will catch and car continues on normal for a bit then it will happen again. I replaced the master cylinder, drove the car a couple miles and it happened again. It is not slipping out of gear. Pumped clutch a bunch and it drove on to my current location. Any ideas as to why it quits pulling and why pumping clutch a lot gets it going again for a little while before it happens again? Bleeding system only produces fluid, no air coming out. My mechanic who handles things i can't is stumped as well. Slave cylinder is not leaking. Oh and yesi know, transaxle not transmission. Anyone experienced anything like this or have any suggestions as to what could cause this? Also, this issue doesn't cause any codes to be thrown.
    Last edited by aRaKNiD; 06-23-2015, 07:30 PM.
    Originally posted by deevergote
    Speaking of sigs... aRaKNiD, yours takes up more than my entire screen. Shrink it, or I will.

    #2
    If your pedal pressure is constant, I'd say your clutch disc is done.

    YouTube Clicky!!

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      #3
      The master cylinder, slave cylinder, lines, and clutch have nothing to do with what happens when the clutch is out. All they allow you to do is to disengage the pressure plate when you want to disconnect the transmission from the engine. So, for example, changing your master cylinder will have no impact on what is going on.

      It sounds like your pressure plate is kaput or the clutch disk is so worn that the clutch isn't generating enough pressure to hold. Pumping the clutch will disengage and re-engage the pressure plate, which might cause it to hold for a short time after it has been re-engaged.

      And any decent mechanic should know this is the likely explanation for your problem.

      Comment


        #4
        I once had a rear main seal leak that would wet the disk and it would slip in 4th and 5th. Check for heavy leakage between the motor and trans. I take it that it slips worse in the higher gears? Regardless what's been stated is spot on, def clutch related and nothing to do with hydraulics.

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          #5
          Well, master cylinder did in fact need replaced which was why that was my first hope. So despite that not even being really related to the issue, it did still need to be done. Secondly, I did have a new clutch installed shortly after buying the car a year ago, however for the life of me, I can't remember if it was only the clutch, or if I got a new pressure plate and throwout bearing or not. Trying to locate my paperwork on that to see. 3rd, about the fluid, I did notice for the first time since having the car, the day that this first happened, there is fluid (not a lot though) coming from where transmission mounts to the motor. I do appreciate the input from everyone, gives me other places to look. *edit* I did find my paperwork and I did indeed get a pressure plate and the throwout bearing installed with the new clutch when I bought the car a year ago. I have not smelled the clutch burning any since replacing, can it go bad any other way than just burning it up?? After talking again with mechanic he said reasoning behind not considering the clutch or pressure plate was because of the "recent" install. To Granite CB7: Yes this is in the higher gears, now that I really think about that aspect, I'm fairly certain it's always been in 5th, possibly 4th but I can say with 100% certainty it's never happened in 3rd or lower, I'm guessing maybe because I'm never in those gears very long.
          Last edited by aRaKNiD; 06-23-2015, 08:43 PM.
          Originally posted by deevergote
          Speaking of sigs... aRaKNiD, yours takes up more than my entire screen. Shrink it, or I will.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by aRaKNiD View Post
            Well, master cylinder did in fact need replaced which was why that was my first hope. So despite that not even being really related to the issue, it did still need to be done. Secondly, I did have a new clutch installed shortly after buying the car a year ago, however for the life of me, I can't remember if it was only the clutch, or if I got a new pressure plate and throwout bearing or not. Trying to locate my paperwork on that to see. 3rd, about the fluid, I did notice for the first time since having the car, the day that this first happened, there is fluid (not a lot though) coming from where transmission mounts to the motor. I do appreciate the input from everyone, gives me other places to look. *edit* I did find my paperwork and I did indeed get a pressure plate and the throwout bearing installed with the new clutch when I bought the car a year ago. I have not smelled the clutch burning any since replacing, can it go bad any other way than just burning it up?? After talking again with mechanic he said reasoning behind not considering the clutch or pressure plate was because of the "recent" install. To Granite CB7: Yes this is in the higher gears, now that I really think about that aspect, I'm fairly certain it's always been in 5th, possibly 4th but I can say with 100% certainty it's never happened in 3rd or lower, I'm guessing maybe because I'm never in those gears very long.
            Your clutch is on its way out. Just because you recently had it replaced does not mean anything. If the clutch had a poor break in period, it will go fairly quickly; within months on most occasions. Otherwise, it is just a POS clutch. Be careful, some service shops use what is known as the "money maker clutch". It is cheap and keeps you coming back.

            How did i come to this conclusion? Your clutch only slips in higher gears like 4th and 5th. That is how it starts. Eventually, you will lose 3rd. What Granite CB7 said seems plausible, but rare. BTW you will not smell the clutch burning smell until you lose 3rd, because those gears spin faster; hence more heat.

            Get that clutch replaced (hate to see CB7s broken down), and remember baby it within the first 500 miles. As always, Good Luck
            F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

            91' Accord Project

            Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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              #7
              Again, i appreciate any and all input. I got a chance to put the car on ramps and i examined further into the fluid that's leaking. This is indeed brake fluid and not oil which i think would confirm not rear main, however when we tear back into this thing, I'll probably replace this time around anyway. I would post a pic as to approximate leak site or atleast where its running down to, but on my phone im not finding how to upload it. So i know the master cylinder isn't leaking nor the slave, what else can leak brake fluid in the clutch system, close to where engine meets Transaxle? I'm accepting to the fact that either clutch disc or pressure plate or both are on the way out, but what about this fluid? I didn't have a leak when i bought the car and i knew beyond a shadow of a doubt the clutch was gone then. Another thing I've failed to mention, once it stops pulling and i stop the car, i have zero gears including reverse until pumping the clutch, a couple times it has grabbed after 20 or less pumps, and a few times I've had to sit and pump for ten minutes. I have not been using the car to get around, only drove home when problem first occurred and drove once after master cylinder replacement (maybe 10 miles). All in all, this slippage has happened 6 times in approximately 15 to 20 miles of travel.
              Last edited by aRaKNiD; 06-25-2015, 10:24 PM.
              Originally posted by deevergote
              Speaking of sigs... aRaKNiD, yours takes up more than my entire screen. Shrink it, or I will.

              Comment


                #8
                go with an Exedy OE replacement clutch. I did mine back in January and it handles the power of the H22 fine. I believe mine is the KHC03 prelude model number though. F22 and H22 are interchangeable, but they do make specific F22 and H22 clutches.

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                Comment


                  #9
                  Update: Clutch and pressure plate are fine. Internals of transmission are shot. I figure it was the original transmission although I can not confirm. It had a good run. 298,XXX miles.
                  Originally posted by deevergote
                  Speaking of sigs... aRaKNiD, yours takes up more than my entire screen. Shrink it, or I will.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    How do you know that? What gave you the clue that it was internal to the transmission?

                    The only thing I could think of would be the differential unloading and spinning the unloaded side.

                    YouTube Clicky!!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by aRaKNiD View Post
                      Update: Clutch and pressure plate are fine. Internals of transmission are shot. I figure it was the original transmission although I can not confirm. It had a good run. 298,XXX miles.
                      yeesh...i never would of thought...Honda transmissions have always been good to me, but then again i have never had the same transmission for more than 200,000 miles lol. Make sure you get a second or even a third opinion before you change out the tranny. Some mechanics will tell you the whole nine yards just for a clutch replacement.

                      BTW you should still change out the clutch and flywheel, most of the time those pieces are responsible for the transmission carnage.GL

                      p.s your brake components are no where near the clutch, so that is just a brake fluid leak and should be fixed asap, because our cars are sensitive to air in the system; quick sponge pedal.
                      Last edited by DGOfTheCentury; 06-28-2015, 01:56 PM.
                      F22B1 Swap. #StanceNation

                      91' Accord Project

                      Paint is custom faded. (Love the Frankenstein look!)

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by DGOfTheCentury View Post
                        quick sponge pedal.
                        Or slow sponge pedal. You'll be at a red light holding the brakes, start to feel it lose pressue and have to use the e-brake to keep from hitting the car behind you. Ask me how I know

                        YouTube Clicky!!

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                          #13
                          Brake fluid goes into the reservoir that feeds the master cylinder, but that's not where it was coming from. Not sure exactly where its coming from or even sure that it's brake fluid anymore, kinda gave up, just gonna get a transmission later. It no longer happens only in 4th and 5th, happens in all gears and really loud chatter coming from Trans when it's slipped. Not even tried to get it to grab since last time, done messing with it. Can't drive 2 blocks without slipping now anyway
                          Originally posted by deevergote
                          Speaking of sigs... aRaKNiD, yours takes up more than my entire screen. Shrink it, or I will.

                          Comment

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