New clutch questions

[white92frankn]

What's up guys?? I'm looking to get a new clutch and throw out bearing as the bearing is starting to chatter a bit. The trans is out of a 97 accord 5spd. Will a prelude stage 2/3 clutch fit in the accord bellhousing?

[Raf99]

What's up guys?? I'm looking to get a new clutch and throw out bearing as the bearing is starting to chatter a bit. The trans is out of a 97 accord 5spd. Will a prelude stage 2/3 clutch fit in the accord bellhousing?

I don't believe it is compatible.

[deevergote]

All FWD H and F series clutches are interchangeable.

How much power are you making? "Stage 2" or "Stage 3" is strictly proprietary, being very different between manufacturers... but if you're not making well over stock H22A power, you don't need anything more than stock replacement. A higher "stage" clutch won't offer any benefit whatsoever. All it'll do is transmit greater shock to the transmission, wear faster due to harsher friction materials, and potentially make your car annoying to drive (I made the mistake of getting a Stage 3 clutch for my near-stock H22A... it was dumb.) I would advise getting an OEM replacement Exedy/Daikin clutch. Stage 1 if you're making 175-185whp (which would be a very healthy H22A with decent bolt-ons... or a pretty heavily modified F22A). Get a lightened flywheel if you want to change the feel, though I'd stick to something around 11lbs. Too light can be annoying.

Also, get an OEM throwout bearing. Cheap aftermarket bearings can fail, and a failed throwout bearing will nuke your clutch, flywheel, and pressure plate (firsthand experience there! I wasn't smart enough to change it when I heard it making noise...)

[Cb7Legend2017]

Good stuff deev. I def second that... through an through. glad i read that cause im sure id make that same mistake lmao

[white92frankn]

So at max stage 2 for light mod engine? And will a 9-11lb flywheel be okay as far as drivability??

[deevergote]

Don't even bother with stage 2. If the engine has light mods, you don't need more than OEM. Look at the power specifications for the clutch. If you're not anywhere near the clutch's intended power rating, go lower. You have absolutely NOTHING to benefit from a higher "stage" clutch than you need.
Also, avoid cheap junk like XTD, F1, or anything similar found on ebay or amazon. A quality OEM Exedy clutch will do far more for you than a cheap XTD Stage 3 (again, personal experience... that's the crap I had!)

I had an 11lb flywheel. It was fun, though I never quite got used to rev matching as I did with the OEM wheel. I also stalled occasionally when I wasn't being careful. Any lighter, and I bet I'd have stalled more frequently. A light flywheel lowers the margin of error when it comes to stalling. No real power gains to be had from a light wheel either, though it makes the engine feel more... revvy.


How much power are you making? What are your mod plans for the near-ish future? (say, 1-2 years).

[F22Chris]

LUK is also a very good brand. I had one bad experience with their flywheel not coming with a bushing though.

[deevergote]

LUK is an OE manufacturer for a number of automakers, I believe. Good stuff, for sure.
I'm a fan of Exedy/Daikin, largely because they're Honda OEM, and largely because they're almost always reasonably priced.
Although I had 3 OEM clutches on my Fit that dropped hub springs, smashing up everything clutch-related. Regular sustained 4,000+ RPM highway driving may have contributed to that, though.

[thumping_accord]

I would definatly say go with Excedy. I had a Stage 2 Comp Clutch when I had a H23A1 in my car and while it was a good quality part, it was not needed what so ever. not to mention the fact that it wore out rather quickly. When I put my H22A in which made 20+ more horsepower than the H23A1 did I used an Excedy OEM replacement, and have not regretted it one bit. Easier for daily driving and it still has plenty of bite.

[sonikaccord]

I have a "Stage 2" Exedy clutch right now, 4 puck style. I haven't installed it yet, but the throwout bearing that comes with it is not as substantial as the OEM one. So even if you decide an Exedy replacement, still get an OEM throwout.

[white92frankn]

Don't even bother with stage 2. If the engine has light mods, you don't need more than OEM. Look at the power specifications for the clutch. If you're not anywhere near the clutch's intended power rating, go lower. You have absolutely NOTHING to benefit from a higher "stage" clutch than you need.
Also, avoid cheap junk like XTD, F1, or anything similar found on ebay or amazon. A quality OEM Exedy clutch will do far more for you than a cheap XTD Stage 3 (again, personal experience... that's the crap I had!)

I had an 11lb flywheel. It was fun, though I never quite got used to rev matching as I did with the OEM wheel. I also stalled occasionally when I wasn't being careful. Any lighter, and I bet I'd have stalled more frequently. A light flywheel lowers the margin of error when it comes to stalling. No real power gains to be had from a light wheel either, though it makes the engine feel more... revvy.


How much power are you making? What are your mod plans for the near-ish future? (say, 1-2 years).

Cams, head work, intake, pistons, header nothing crazy

[white92frankn]

I have a "Stage 2" Exedy clutch right now, 4 puck style. I haven't installed it yet, but the throwout bearing that comes with it is not as substantial as the OEM one. So even if you decide an Exedy replacement, still get an OEM throwout.

I will keep this in mind!!

[EastCoastLife]

Yeah I had an exedy stage 1 clutch and a exedy light weight flywheel and used the
Throw out bearing that came with it. That's in my gsr teg and it has 60 k miles on the setup. No problems. But with the cb7 I'm building I think I'm gonna run the same thing minus the flywheel and get a OEM throw out bearing. Cause of funds.

[deevergote]

Cams, head work, intake, pistons, header nothing crazy

That could mean anything... like... that could be describing a 250whp race engine, or a 160whp street build.

[deevergote]

Yeah I had an exedy stage 1 clutch and a exedy light weight flywheel and used the
Throw out bearing that came with it. That's in my gsr teg and it has 60 k miles on the setup. No problems. But with the cb7 I'm building I think I'm gonna run the same thing minus the flywheel and get a OEM throw out bearing. Cause of funds.

Since Exedy is an OEM manufacturer, their throwout bearings are close to OEM quality. I've heard that an OEM bearing from the Honda parts counter is still best, but I'd trust the Exedy bearing.

NEVER trust cheap junk bearings, though. The XTD crap I had in my car seized, and I had to drive 100 miles home without using the clutch (well, for anything but 1st... and I had to give it gas while pressing the clutch to use 1st gear.)