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Eff’ed up tranny again!

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    Eff’ed up tranny again!

    So since busting the fork pivot ball off of my trans then fixing it and putting everything back together it was driving fine for about a week. Then gradually the shifts started getting harder. Tougher and tougher to get into gear. My clutch pedal was also soft like it wasn’t putting enough pressure to push the slave rod against the shifter fork. I parked it after barely making it home Friday. It was horrible as it was grinding each gear every time I had to shift on the way home.
    There are no leaks anywhere in the clutch master or slave. The master and slave are exedy and less than 6 months old with a nice braided line linking them. I tried to start the car in gear just now and it froze up and wouldn’t start. It’s stuck in first right now. The shifter fork is really loose and rattles around but is still attached to the pivot. It looks like it is stuck in a position it shouldn’t be. Like in the middle of its movement.

    Anybody got an idea of what went wrong?
    I’m just disgusted knowing most likely this trans is coming out again by myself this time.
    5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

    ~Mark~

    #2
    Before you rip out the transmission, Get somebody to push the clutch pedal for you as you watch to see if the slave cylinder is actually pushing the fork. Maybe something simple like a collapse in the line. If it’s not moving, see if fluid comes out of the slave easily. If it doesn’t check everything before the transmission. Check your master cylinder from the inside of the car as well. Sometimes they leak from inside.. since it’s stuck in the middle of its travel, it sounds like a collapse in the line.

    If that all works as it should, then take it apart again. Make sure the throw out isn’t seized onto the input shaft, or if the clutch disk seized onto it. I’m sorry this happened, dude. Hopefully it’s something before the transmission.

    Edit: Try letting the pressure out of the system, and see if the slave extended so far that the rod popped out as well.
    Last edited by F22Chris; 04-28-2018, 10:38 PM.

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      #3
      I’ll hook everything back up tomorrow and see if the slave rod will move the fork. Right now I can’t even get it out of first even with the car turned off it’s stuck solid. Something is jammed right now. It’s all bad.
      5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

      ~Mark~

      Comment


        #4
        Oh and I got no leaks anywhere inside or out.
        5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

        ~Mark~

        Comment


          #5
          Ok I got everything back together. It doesn’t look like there is enough pressure to push the slave rod out to move the fork back to far enough to get it in gear. The slave rod pushes the fork like an inch back. That’s it.
          5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

          ~Mark~

          Comment


            #6
            So there’s NO fluid loss from the reservoir? Bad master or slave if so. Nothing rubbing on the line?

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              #7
              The line is good with fluids flowing through. I just replaced the slave and same exact situation. Half pedal basically. No matter how much I bleed it. Going for a master cylinder now lol
              5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

              ~Mark~

              Comment


                #8
                New master cylinder doesn’t fix it. I go no air in the lines and the peddle is mush. Idk wtf. I’m done for the night.
                5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

                ~Mark~

                Comment


                  #9
                  Oh, is the master cylinder adjusted properly? You will get mush and no pressure when pushing the pedal if it's adjusted all the way the wrong way.

                  Stupid question, shouldn't one be able to force the car out of gear (with engine off). I know it will be tough but it should do it right? No different than me moving through the gears with a tranny outside of the car. Rocking the car maybe required.

                  Point being if you can't get it out of gear isn't something wrong there? Bent shift fork?

                  Also does the car try to move when you try to move it out of (or in to) gear?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I got it unstuck. The trans is fine. My master cylinder rod is adjusted so the clutch pedal is at the same height as the brake. Which the clutch pedal is now a little lower than it was before. I need to bleed this clutch really good. I think that’s my problem.
                    5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

                    ~Mark~

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by NH-503P-3 View Post
                      I got it unstuck. The trans is fine. My master cylinder rod is adjusted so the clutch pedal is at the same height as the brake. Which the clutch pedal is now a little lower than it was before. I need to bleed this clutch really good. I think that’s my problem.
                      Ya, adjusting the MC is more for clutch engagement but obviously having it turned all the way out will not allow the plunger to build pressure. The manual states the spec on how far from the floor, etc, etc. but it assumes you have new parts.

                      Anyways, did ya get it fixed?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        No I don’t have a second person to help me bleed it good right now. I might just purchase one of those vacuum self bleeder units to do it myself. Any recommendations on a good bleeder kit let me know. It’s cold out and windy today so I’m going to wait till it warms up later this week. Im going to clean out any dirty fluid in the reservoir also.
                        5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

                        ~Mark~

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Mark, I usually do this by myself. Just find a decent 2x4 that will hold the pedal down after you pump it up. Then go bleed the slave and squeeze it all the way closed with your hand. Do that a few times and I guarantee that all the air will be out. This is how I always bleed my clutch anymore. I don't think the vacuum's work on the clutch line as they will suck the diaphragm closed if I remember correctly.
                          MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Sounds good to me. It seems like it will take me a bunch of times doing that to get it bled but I gotta do what I gotta do lol. I need my car lol. My Tacoma is like $25 more a week to drive. But at least she’s damn reliable.
                            5 studded & leather clad - Praise The Lowered

                            ~Mark~

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I’m glad you found the culprit! No tranny removal is a win no matter how you look at it.

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