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Old 06-06-2018, 07:49 PM   #1
zedjr10
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AC low and high pressure gauge readings still low after 3 cans

After redoing this whole ac system almost and evacuating the system. I can put 3 12 oz cans in system and still pressures read like my system is low. It reads 40 on low side and 230 on high side with 94 degrees temp. Each can i add i probably am losing 2 oz but if that is true i got already 30 oz. It should be overcharged. WHen i did evacuate it only reached -24 in hg. I am told it must reach at least -29. I thought it was just a gauge malfunction. My pump is only 1.8 cfm. Would this have anything to do with it? I live in Denver so i wonder if this has anything to do with it.

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Old 06-07-2018, 03:50 AM   #2
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Pretty soon you'll have the whole first page the Tech sub-forum. Is it really necessary to create a new thread for every single issue instead of having an AC thread or just doing a build thread?

Had to ask.
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Old 06-07-2018, 11:02 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Ghostwhite View Post
Pretty soon you'll have the whole first page the Tech sub-forum. Is it really necessary to create a new thread for every single issue instead of having an AC thread or just doing a build thread?

Had to ask.
I have been wondering the same thing.


It may be that your pump is not strong enough, is it cold? If not it is because you have to much refrigerant, too little or too much and it will not work right. If you didn't vacuum it well enough then it won't be as cold as it should be. 24 should be enough of a pull as long as you held that vacuum for at least 30 mins. If you have a way, then pull a couple ounces of refrigerant out at a time and see if it gets cold.
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Old 06-07-2018, 12:32 PM   #4
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When you raise the rpm does the gauge read around 250? Does it blow cold at idle?
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Old 06-07-2018, 01:25 PM   #5
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When you raise the rpm does the gauge read around 250? Does it blow cold at idle?
I already evacuated it and then recharged and had frozen line issue. I think frozen freon was in my system while pump was running. I am so depressed.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:00 PM   #6
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Your system is dead? Not working?

What is frozen line issue?
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:08 PM   #7
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Your system is dead? Not working?

What is frozen line issue?
I think while charging the low side the pressure got too high. It was over 130 psi and turned to frozen liquid. I think my bowl of water to put my can in shouldn't of been so hot possibly. I am trying to evacuate again to see if system will hold pressure.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:15 PM   #8
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After you get the pressure down, just close the system off and let it sit for a minimum of 30 mins. I've let them sit overnight even just to be sure there are no leaks. Don't disconnect the manifold hoses, just leave it all hooked up so you can keep an eye on the readings.
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:18 PM   #9
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After you get the pressure down, just close the system off and let it sit for a minimum of 30 mins. I've let them sit overnight even just to be sure there are no leaks. Don't disconnect the manifold hoses, just leave it all hooked up so you can keep an eye on the readings.
Got another manifold gauge. No leaks it seems, woohoo. Am now evacuating system. WIll let that run for an hour or more and then i'll charge. I just hope my compressor is ok. When does high pressure sensor tell compressor to shut off. At 250 psi depending on the temps right?
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:23 PM   #10
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Pretty soon you'll have the whole first page the Tech sub-forum. Is it really necessary to create a new thread for every single issue instead of having an AC thread or just doing a build thread?

Had to ask.
The reason is because i look things up by specific questions as i know nobody is going to come out here and tell me step for step what to do. All my questions i try to be specific cause i need to understand all this myself. TUtorials and DIY are great but no way can u follow an exact tutorial step for step. Unless it was like changing your oil and even that varies car to car and circumstances. Things are always different and sometimes just wrong in tutorial. SO i watch many tutorials and ask things i think i need to know. And as with ac systems. I have never done this type of thing before. So i start out not having a clue about nothing. Just a bunch of assumptions.
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:43 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by zedjr10 View Post
The reason is because i look things up by specific questions as i know nobody is going to come out here and tell me step for step what to do. All my questions i try to be specific cause i need to understand all this myself. TUtorials and DIY are great but no way can u follow an exact tutorial step for step. Unless it was like changing your oil and even that varies car to car and circumstances. Things are always different and sometimes just wrong in tutorial. SO i watch many tutorials and ask things i think i need to know. And as with ac systems. I have never done this type of thing before. So i start out not having a clue about nothing. Just a bunch of assumptions.
If you read back thru the other threads you made others and I told you pretty much step by step how to do this.

Step 1) Evacuate system.

Step 2) Disassemble whole system.

Step 3) Flush all the lines while it is all apart.

Step 4) Replace all components (compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valve.) ALL NEW GREEN O RINGS. PAG oil specs for components are as follows.

Condenser 10cc
Evaporator 25cc
Lines 10cc for each line
Dryer 10cc
Compressor 100cc minus volume of oil drained from old compressor=volume of oil to drain from new compressor

Step 5) Pull a vacuum on the system to -30inHg for at LEAST 30 mins.

Step 6) Charge to 28-30 oz of R-134a Vehicle off, not running.

Step 7) Double check for leaks in the system by watching the manifold gauges. Low side should fall around 30-35 PSI at around 75-80 degrees and high side should be around 225 to 230. THIS IS A BASE LINE FOR PRESSURES! You should be pretty close to that. The ambient temperature and humidity where you are will play a factor in these numbers fluctuating.

Step 8) Enjoy your cold air!
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:14 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Size9zombie View Post
If you read back thru the other threads you made others and I told you pretty much step by step how to do this.

Step 1) Evacuate system.

Step 2) Disassemble whole system.

Step 3) Flush all the lines while it is all apart.

Step 4) Replace all components (compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valve.) ALL NEW GREEN O RINGS. PAG oil specs for components are as follows.

Condenser 10cc
Evaporator 25cc
Lines 10cc for each line
Dryer 10cc
Compressor 100cc minus volume of oil drained from old compressor=volume of oil to drain from new compressor

Step 5) Pull a vacuum on the system to -30inHg for at LEAST 30 mins.

Step 6) Charge to 28-30 oz of R-134a Vehicle off, not running.

Step 7) Double check for leaks in the system by watching the manifold gauges. Low side should fall around 30-35 PSI at around 75-80 degrees and high side should be around 225 to 230. THIS IS A BASE LINE FOR PRESSURES! You should be pretty close to that. The ambient temperature and humidity where you are will play a factor in these numbers fluctuating.

Step 8) Enjoy your cold air!
That isn't even correct and so basic. Car would never hold 30 oz without compressor run. No need to respond if u don't want to help. Other people actually may read this on occasion to help them.
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:47 PM   #13
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Just so you know, that came straight from the repair manual from our cars. The paper manual, that Honda issued. Some vehicles hold 3 pounds of refrigerant.

Last edited by Size9zombie; 06-07-2018 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:54 PM   #14
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You mean your repair manual.The 30 in/hg vacuum you would never get at 5k feet altitude. More like 24. That is so so basic. I don't see how that would help anyone except a professional who hasn't done it in years and just got to remember. Also the 225 to 230 greatly depends on the ambient temp also. Even cheap crappy tutorials are better than that crap you have.
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Old 06-07-2018, 07:02 PM   #15
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You JUST quoted me saying that temp and humidity play a factor. NOT MY REPAIR MANUAL. I work for Honda and I grabbed the repair manual off the shelf at the dealer where I work. 5,000 feet may be hard to get 30. I also said in 1 of your other threads that 25 would be fine.

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Old 06-07-2018, 07:04 PM   #16
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BTW before you say anything about it I work at an Acura dealer, but we have Honda manuals here also, since we work on them as well. You pretty obviously aren't going to take advise, read carefully enough to what we are telling you, and haven't got a clue. You might just wanna let someone that knows what they are doing handle it. Time is money, and accuracy counts. First time fix and a code of ethics is how I conduct my life. There are a lot of total SHIT "mechanics" out there that you should NEVER take your car to. Find 1 you can trust, Iv'e said all I can to try to help.

Last edited by Size9zombie; 06-07-2018 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:02 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Size9zombie View Post
BTW before you say anything about it I work at an Acura dealer, but we have Honda manuals here also, since we work on them as well. You pretty obviously aren't going to take advise, read carefully enough to what we are telling you, and haven't got a clue. You might just wanna let someone that knows what they are doing handle it. Time is money, and accuracy counts. First time fix and a code of ethics is how I conduct my life. There are a lot of total SHIT "mechanics" out there that you should NEVER take your car to. Find 1 you can trust, Iv'e said all I can to try to help.
You've criticized a lot. That is for sure. You give me directions for r12 system i think. As i don't care.
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:03 PM   #18
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You JUST quoted me saying that temp and humidity play a factor. NOT MY REPAIR MANUAL. I work for Honda and I grabbed the repair manual off the shelf at the dealer where I work. 5,000 feet may be hard to get 30. I also said in 1 of your other threads that 25 would be fine.
It is not hard, it is effn impossible. 30 won't happen. If you don't know how to answer in a helpful way, then why do you even answer.
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:19 PM   #19
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You've criticized a lot. That is for sure. You give me directions for r12 system i think. As i don't care.
Youv'e asked the same questions a lot. That is for sure. R-134a or R-12 the removal and replacement are going to be the same, evac, vacuum, oil, charge, and pressure specs are going to be the same. Being at 5,000 feet is something you left out so vacuum may not reach -30inHg. Pressures may also be much lower. You don't charge a system with it running. Charge it while it is off, so you can see static pressure as you charge, that way you can watch low and high rise together at the same time, if there is a blockage, you will see it before it blows up in your face. Also you will hear if there is a leak as the low side will be at a much higher pressure that may not leak while it's running but will when you park it. (System off)
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Old 06-07-2018, 08:19 PM   #20
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It is not hard, it is effn impossible. 30 won't happen. If you don't know how to answer in a helpful way, then why do you even answer.
If you are 5,000 feet........

Sorry if the other 15 or so responses on your other several threads about this same thing didn't seem helpful.

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