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    ENG: Recharge A/C

    1990-93 A/C RETROFIT AND RECHARGING

    Tools and Materials needed:

    R-12 - R134a retrofit kit (available at most auto parts stores)
    A/C gauge (comes in kit)
    R134a refrigant (comes in kit)
    Ester Oil (comes in kit)
    R134a fill fittings (come in kit)
    Misc. Wrenches (depending on your situation)
    Misc. Hand tools

    This is the retrofit kit I used



    Step One:

    Figure out WHY your A/C is not working. is it blowing hot, is it blowing warm? If it is blowing warm (kinda cold) your system needs to be toped off. If you still have the r12 system, it isn't worth it to drain out all that r12. the simple fact is that r134 just doesn't cool as well.

    you are gonna have to go to a shop and have it topped off, unless you are connected in the black market, and can get a hold of some r12 LOL. the shop I got my 12 fill up quote at said it is 70 bucks a pound, and the system hold about 2 pounds. so you have to buy at least 1 pound of r12 so you are looking at at least 70 to refill with r12.

    You could have your system evacuated, and then follow the diy, or get it filled. truth is it will prolly cost the same either way. the only thing is next time it would be cheaper to be able to fill it up yourself.

    it is up to you what path you choose. colder air for now, or cheaper fix next time... they will cost about the same.

    whatever you do, do not just top off your r12 system with r134. I should have said that in the diy, but i forgot to mention it. you will foam up your entire a/c system, and it will have to be flushed.

    However there is a refrigerant on the market called like super12 or something like that, that is legal for you to use, however I have heard mixed reviews on this product, and most members consider it either a temporary fix, or a horrific thing they would never do to there car.

    If it is blowing hot, you need to figure out if your compressor is even turning when your a/c on the dash is on. start the car, turn on the a/c, and pop the hood look under the alternator, you will see your a/c compressor. It looks alot like the alternator. is the front of the pulley turning?

    If not then there is 3 things (as far as what I am going to cover) that could be wrong.

    1. your a/c clutch needs to be replaced
    2. you have no freon in your system, and the high pressure switch (pictured below) is not allowing your compressor clutch relay to fire.
    3. your a/c clutch relay fuse in your kick panel fuse block is blown, or malfunctioning.



    to solve number one, is going to cost quite a bit of money ( 80 bucks at autozone for a new clutch) not to mention you have to get a special tool to remove the clutch. you can replace the whole compressor, but there again lies the rub, because the compressor alone is 250-350 bucks at a parts store.

    Number two can be figured out quickly. cut a piece of wire about 3 inches long and strip both ends of its insulation. twist the ends to make then easy to insert into a plug. now bend it into a U shape. you have just made a jumper!

    now remove the high pressure sensor plug (pictured below) and insert the jumper one end into one hole and the other into the opposite hole. does the compressor turn on? does the drivers side radiator fan turn on?



    if your compressor kicks on you have figured out that either your high pressure switch is bad, or you have no coolant in you system.

    if your compressor does not kick on, but the fan does, you have figured out that the fuse might be bad in the kick panel fuse box. check the fuse, and replace it whether it looks burnt or not (picture below)





    if the compressor still does not kick on after the fuse replacement (when you jump it) your problem lies beyond my knowledge of a/c repair, and obviously yours as well, and I would advise taking it to an a/c repair shop.

    if your compressor, and fans kick on at this point, you are golden, and it is time to convert your r12 system to r134a!
    Last edited by dean_harryman; 07-16-2007, 06:09 PM.

    #2
    Step 2

    Retrofitting your system:

    You need to evacuate ALL the r12 refrigerant from your system, this should be done my a shop with a special vacuum machine. you can rent this tool, but just spend a little money and do this part right. I had a leak in my low side pipe, so I knew that the r12 was gone.

    After the r12 is out of the system, all you have to fo is bolt the new fittings over the old ones (Picture Below) to do this, you need to clean the old fitting threads with a wire brush. then screw the fittings onto the low and high side. They need to be tight, but not extremely tight!





    Now that your fittings are snug, let them cure for a few hors. they have a thread sealer already on the fittings. after they cure, DO NOT try and remove them, they are permanent, and you will break off the old fitting.

    this is the a/c gauge, it is a gauge with a fitting for attaching a canister, and a fitting for attaching the line to the low pressure fitting.



    Attach a canister of the provided r134a (the kit comes with r134 and oil premixed) if you did not get a kit, like me, then you first will be using ester oil. so attach the canister of your choice to the gauge, ensuring the canister piercer is in the upper position. now start your car and turn the ac on with the fan to max, and the recirculate button on.





    With the canister attacked turn the gauge clockwise until it wont turn anymore. now attach the end of the hose opposite of the gauge to the LOW pressure fitting ( NEVER attach this gauge to the high side, the pressure on this side of the line is EXTREME )



    now with the engine running, and the compressor turning, and with the a/c to the on position, turn the gauge face counter clockwise until you hear the gas escaping from the can. it should begin to get cold.

    with an eye on the gauge, agitate the can from 12'oclock to 3 or 9'oclock (the pressure on the gauge will spike for a minute, don't worry) you should see the level of pressure starting to level off, and the can will get extremely cold. when the can feels empty turn it upside down to ensure all the oil has gone into the line.



    Comment


      #3
      CONT.

      After one can check the pressure on the line by closing the gauge valve, and attaching the gauge to the low side only.



      if your pressure is somewhere around 30-35 psi, check you ac in the car, its blowing cold isn't it? if it is not blowing at least cool, turn off the engine, and listen for any kind of hissing, you may have a fast leak in the system like I did.

      if you have a leak get it fixed, and learn from my mistakes, JB weld WILL NOT hold against even the smallest hole in your a/c lines. either take it to a pro and get it welded shut, or cheap out like I did, and get the section of line from a junk yard.

      after your pressure is corresponding to the ambient temperature, you are set!

      Congratulations, you ave converted your Honda from an oven to a fridge!

      here are some random pictures to orient you to the a/c system.

      this is my first DIY, so I probably left some things out. just let me know any questions you have, and I will answer to the best of my abilities.





      low line should be cold when a/c is on, and return line should be hot.



      I hope this DIY has been helpful for you guys. let me know you success stories! and like I said before, I will answer any questions you guys have (if I know the answers)


      NOTE:DO NOT TOP OFF YOUR R12 SYSTEM WITH R134A. YOU WILL RUIN YOUR A/C SYSTEM. ALL R12 REFRIGERANT MUST BE REMOVED PRIOR TO FILLING WITH R134A

      NOTE:IF YOUR A/C LIGHT IS NOT COMING ON, TOUR FUSE IS MOST LIKELY BURNT OUT. IF YOU DO NOT KNOW WHERE THE FUSE FOR THE A/C SYSTEM IS, LOOK HIGHER IN THE DIY FOR PICS.
      Last edited by dean_harryman; 08-20-2007, 07:46 PM.

      Comment


        #4
        and how much was the retro kit?
        Last edited by ExplodingCake; 07-16-2007, 04:16 PM.

        1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
        1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
        2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
        2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
        2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
        2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by f22cb7lx
          and how much was the retro kit?
          I think if you mix some type of contamination happens
          1993 Accord LX - Sold
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          Comment


            #6
            The retro kit was 45 bucks. but I didnt realize that I had a hole in my line, so I had to buy 3 more cans of r134, then i tried to fix the tiny, and I mean tiny, it was the size of a needle prick, hole with jb weld, it blew straight through it when i recharged the system. so I just picked up a new line from the junk yard voilla, cold air.

            and about the contamination, if you follow what i said in my DIY i said to have all the r12 removed, but even if you evacuated it yourself and didn't get all of it, the ester oil allows the r134 and r12 to be somewhat compatible. and from my research the is no proof that you can hurt your system if you have a small amount of r12 remaining.

            Comment


              #7
              so how would i "top it off" if my AC is blowing slightly cold.

              Comment


                #8
                DIY has been edited to remind people that you cant top off r12 with r134, and there is a section about topping off your r12 in the first post now as well.
                Last edited by dean_harryman; 07-16-2007, 06:11 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by dean_harryman
                  The retro kit was 45 bucks.....
                  where exactly did you buy it at a local shop or online

                  Comment


                    #10
                    autozone or most auto parts sell the retrofit kits

                    nice diy
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                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by blackcb7
                      autozone or most auto parts sell the retrofit kits

                      nice diy

                      huh! I have look somewhere else cause I just went o autozone this past saturday and didn't see anything... I also looked in the internet and they go for $140 to almost $300

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Gemini
                        I think if you mix some type of contamination happens
                        This is true. They have devices out there that can tell you how much percent you got r12/134a. The allowable limit is like really little. Look at my system 51% r12 49% 134A IM BALLIN!!!! hahaha damn previous owners...oh well it was a girl drivin (no offense) Anyway I gotta change out AC/drier and the expansion valve thats gonna be fun. When we charged my car with r12 the compressor wouldnt kick on =O high side was low. OH well I just need to find a vac pump and let it run =D. Nice DIY btw.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by socal_cb7
                          huh! I have look somewhere else cause I just went o autozone this past saturday and didn't see anything... I also looked in the internet and they go for $140 to almost $300
                          That probably includes the refrigerant and crap also.

                          The New-ish Ride
                          My old Ride
                          Hear my Vtak!!!
                          MK3 Member #3
                          I piss off people for fun.
                          IA 08 Sunburn Victim #1

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Autozone sells the retrofit kit I bought, I know this because I bought it there.

                            it costs 45 here, but maybe more in other places.

                            it comes with a reusable gauge. which is actually really nice. and with new fittings. it comes with 4 fitting but you only need 2. 2 of them have one thread pattern, and 2 have a diff one...

                            it also comes with 2 LARGE cans or r134a with oil in it, and stopleak for high mile cars!

                            it is a good deal! they sell all the parts there at autozone, and the gauge is 20 bucks, the fittings are 17, and the large cans of 134 are nearly 20 bucks. So you save nearly 40 bucks by buying the kit!

                            CLICK HERE TO SEE A KIT THAT IS SIMILAR TO THE ONE I USED

                            Note that on the page on JC Whitney, it clearly says that it has a chemical in the gas that allows the MINERAL OIL to stay in the system. the mineral oil is what the "contamination" comes from....

                            the mineral oil doesn't mix with the oil in 134 and it causes problems... however, that is what the chemical (I think it is either pag oil or ester oil) is for. it causes the mineral oil to settle into areas of the ac system that dont get disturbed (low spots)
                            Last edited by dean_harryman; 07-17-2007, 09:50 AM.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Great DIY Dean!!

                              i just got my self a used A/C compressor last month,

                              Filled it up with R134a and cost me 80usd, including compressor, gas and labour

                              woot


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