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Lovely alignment issues (caster specific)

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    Lovely alignment issues (caster specific)

    I’ve got some things to do to my car and plan on getting an alignment again but my caster is out of spec currently
    Front left
    Camber: -0.9
    CASTER: 3.5
    Toe: 0.03

    Front right
    Camber: -0.2
    CASTER: 1.8
    Toe: 0.01

    I’ve installed
    -Upper adjustable spc ball joints
    -brand new upper control arm and bushings
    -Lower ball joints
    -Tie rod inner and outer kits

    Plan to install
    -Lower control arm shock poly bushings
    Because the right side is lower than the other
    -Poly strut rod bushing


    I’m attempting to try to fix the caster because I think that’s the reason why my car pulls to the right which makes sense

    I was wondering if anyone would explain and tell me exactly how many shims I can put in between the strut rod to get it back into alignment

    I plan to install poly bushing when I instal the shims should I wait and instal new bushing and check the alignment for caster and then add shins if necessary?

    My car has been in an accident in the front passenger side and the lower control arm was replace but I can’t remember if I replaced the strut rod could it be bent and is there any way I can measure the frame to make sure nothing is bent?

    is if it’s possible to measure caster alignment at home for our cb7s?

    #2
    I'd install the bushing and shims at the same time, since that's ultimately how it'll be.
    We don't discuss caster much on here, since the only time it ever becomes an issue is when the car has been damaged. I've never measured myself (and the only time my car took a hit in the front, it was totaled... so no need!)
    The process seems fairly simple, though, if you have the tools.

    https://itstillruns.com/calculate-ca...e-7551573.html






    Comment


      #3
      I would think this would be a radius rod adjustment. Assuming you have taken up all the thread already on the passenger side?

      Comment


        #4
        As Raf mentions caster is mainly a radius rod adjustment. Shortening the distance between the lower arm and front rod mount will pull the bottom of the spindle forward and give you more caster. The front beam that your radius rod mounts to may have been tweaked back and thus pushed the bottom of the spindle back.

        The goal would be to start with no shims on the rearward side of the radius rod bushing, you want that radius rod as short as possible.

        You should also be able to use the adjustable upper balljoint to lean the top of the spindle towards the rear of the car to get some more caster.
        Last edited by Ghostwhite; 03-03-2020, 12:58 PM.

        Comment


          #5
          If you hit hard enough to damage the *very* beefy lower control arm, I wouldn't be suprised if your front subframe was bent or cracked.

          You should at a minimum check it very carefully, and probably just replace it with a junkyard part to be sure.

          This happened to my race car some time in it's crashing career

          subframe:


          close up of crack


          You can see how the lower control arm mount pushed in, and then started cracking as we raced on it.

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