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Old 11-19-2015, 12:10 AM   #41
Zombine
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Bit more of an update

After sealing down all the end caps, I installed some new cam seals



Installed a new blox polished cam end plug



Installed the OBD1 H22A distributor with a new o-ring



Modified the Euro R throttle cable bracket so it would suit my stock F22Z throttle cable



And got a new cambelt, tensioner and balance shaft belt



Random photo of it



All parts I use are genuine BTW
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Old 11-22-2015, 02:22 AM   #42
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Massive thanks to a local NZHondas member for giving me a set of spark plug leads and a prelude power steering pump and bracket to use! I'll have the last pieces of the puzzle next week, yay!

Found a F23A crank pulley which is identical to my factory pulley, which means I can reuse my AC / Alt belt, And will just need a different P/S belt to suit



Mitchell started polishing my headers while I did some work on one of his cars :P



And bolted the lower half of the manifold on to see how it will fit, They tuck up nice and close to the sump so will give great ground and subframe clearance!




Compared to the stock lower half, its a little bit shorter, so for the meanwhile ill extend the mugen lower half so it matches up with my stock exhaust. early in january I'll get the 2.5" system made



Also got my P91 ecu back from another local NZHondas member who has loaded a basemap onto it so I can run the car in and get it to the dyno for a proper tune once the new exhaust is on

Not long to go now and am getting excited to having this run running in my car!
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Old 11-23-2015, 07:19 AM   #43
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Awesome bro! who's doing the tune for you, and what software are you using?
If you in auckland the guy on NZH Shiftyjohnno is pretty good with crome
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Old 11-23-2015, 10:44 AM   #44
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Using a friend Sam white, he tuned my dc2 and countless other cars including Honda cup racers
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Old 12-02-2015, 12:52 PM   #45
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Ended up going to pick a part on saturday afternoon, and got the P/S high pressure line off a BA8 prelude.

[img]http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1280x1024q90/907/fiM***.jpg[/img]


Also bought my vtec solenoid gasket and bolted that on, Found out the top gasket in the vtec solenoid is missing too so will have a new one here today for that.



The P/S pump before I rebuilt it



All the o-rings and the shaft seal



And after it was cleaned and rebuilt



And thanks to domanib18b / Markus for having an aluminium 10mm EGR blanking plate laser cut

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Old 12-08-2015, 12:25 PM   #46
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More of an update on my DC2 I'm building too :P


Last of the bits I need for the H22A have been ordered, This includes the valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, valve cover washers and intake manifold gasket. Will have them on wednesday Also need to pop down to BNT to pick up the spark plugs at some point - Will have these today.

In other news, Was told my rear trailing arms were ready for pickup at the powdercoaters - Had almost forgotten about them :P



Just need to get the new hardrace toe arms (Gave the last set away in a deal :P ), And hardrace trailing arm bushs and I can get them bolted back in. Won't be long and can get the DC2 rolling again

So hopefully by the end of the day it will be finally ready to go into the CB! Exciting times ahead!
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Old 12-11-2015, 09:54 AM   #47
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Got the last of my bits for the H series, This included valve cover gasket, spark plug tube seals, valve cover washers, intake manifold gasket, and some iridium spark plugs.

Also got all the new fluids today, 5L pack of Type 2 coolant (good to flush the entire system before putting this in), 2L of MTF, a second oil filter for the first oil change, a bottle of P/S fluid, and all associated crush washers

Started at 4:30 after work, pulled the motor out, started with adapting the wiring loom to the H series, few wires need extending but not too bad. Since I wont be running a knock sensor, I'll use that wire and swap it in the plug at the ECU With adapting the F series loom I'm trying to retain using most of the clips and mounting hardware so that it remains functional.

The goal for tomorrow (Saturday) is to have the H series bolted in, wired up, have its first lot of oil dumped, leak tested, road tested, and ready for the cruise on sunday 8-)

I was able to remove alot of extra stuff thats no longer needed in the engine bay, Which will free up alot of room which is nice.

Bye bye F series







Filthy engine bay





Wiring loom being adapted



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Old 12-12-2015, 03:23 AM   #48
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Swap is all done! Going on a big drive tomorrow will be interesting to see if I have any teething issues



Will get a new 2.5" exhaust made in january, Then will be off to the dyno to get tuned

Car is currrently running a P91 ECU with a basemap on it.
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Old 12-24-2015, 09:29 AM   #49
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my god that's sweet ass bro! Similar to what I'm doing. Going to go full conversion H22A + manual but wifey said she needs auto first (before completing her manual lessions). I know that I can bolt my existing F22 tranny on the H22A but can I still use the F22 ECU?
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Old 12-24-2015, 10:07 PM   #50
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The CB runs a seperate computer for the auto trans, So youll need to find an obd1 h series ecu, like out of a bb1/bb4 prelude.

Someone may correct me if I'm wrong though!
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:26 AM   #51
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Just a quick progress update!

Have ordered a bluetooth module from HondaRulez.com

https://www.facebook.com/groups/hondarulez/

This will go into my ECU when it goes to get tuned. This will allow me to run the tunerview app and datalog and have all sorts of engine readouts available on my phone

I recently had a friend make a 2.5" stainless exhaust for me. The exhaust now comprises of mugen headers, a 500mm long AdrenalinR resonator (nz made, great quality, using stainless steel wool in the baffle rather than fibreglass), and a Tanabe G medallion rear muffler - no cat, no emissions laws here in nz .

DSC_1943 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

gave the muffler a polish up that morning

DSC_1925 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

My friend, works at an engineering shop who does all of the stainless work for all of fonterra, the largest dairy company in nz. Stainless is all he does, and does it well!

DSC_1937 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

Since then, I've heatwrapped the headers, and put heat reflective gold foil tape on the intake pipe. Also installed a new velocity stack and filter.

DSC_2012 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

I'm also looking into getting a small battery, and mounting it down low on the side of the chassis rail, effectively underneath where the current battery sits. This will allow me to position the air filter a little better, and more importantly, build an airbox for it.

The car is booked in for the dyno on the 4th of march, To finally get it tuned

I also ran the car at a local event, called night speed drag wars (or NSDW as we call it). It's a street car only event, run what you brung sort of thing, Starts at 5:30 in the evening and runs till 1 or even 2am sometimes.

Since the last drag day I went to, was a summer day, the track was nice and hot, alot more traction than a night time event. Didn't have full timing gear running last time either, So can't compare 60' times.

All I know is last time I ran, was in the same configuration, just with the stock F22Z, and ran a 16.49 @ 82.4mph.

With the H series in there, I managed a 14.94 @ 93.6mph with a 2.48 60'!

What time tells me, is that the car is quite heavy, and is severely lacking traction, struggling to get off the line in a decent amount of time. Despite this, I was sometimes trapping upwards of 97mph, so the car is making good power, Will be interesting to see how it responds after it's been tuned, has some weight reduction done (just seats removed) and some stickier tyres on there.

12748056_851634761614571_2760400008259211397_o by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

12747392_1145254108842627_4776336556572627546_o by Craig Kelly, on Flickr


That's about it for now! Will update once its been tuned with results

P.S. If anyone wants a high quality muffler or resonator, Hit up http://adrenalinr.com/

Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2016, 05:13 AM   #52
92LxCoupe92
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man that's mint great work!!!
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:20 AM   #53
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Amazing build! Wow I am speechless. Where do I begin? The Integra looks like it has been sitting in the Honda dealership brand new.
The CB looks spectacular to be your DD. I learned a lot from your thread just by reading through it.

I like the trailer hook that is on the back. Do you have any wagons ever show up? I know you like to keep the car oem but you could always remove the rear plastic compartment from the wagon. It will allow you to keep a full size spare in your trunk instead of the doughnut.

Are your wheels one of the rare oem accessory wheels? They look like F20As rims. He was the only one until now that I knew had those wheels.

Amazed how you basically did everything by the book. Really inspires me to do the same! I am focusing on buying my first house at the moment but the good news is a I will have a car port and possibly a garage (haven't seen the back yet because there aren't any pictures).

What color is the leather? It appears black but then again I almost thought it was dark blue for a second?
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:35 AM   #54
Zombine
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I think the wheels may have been a nz/Australia new thing, from the exi model.

The car already has a full size spare

We do have cb9's here, but are very rare, same with the coupes.

The leather is Grey, but not in very great condition anymore. So am looking into replacing or retrieving in the future. To do it in leather will cost me an arm and a leg, so I'm looking at other options at the moment
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:47 PM   #55
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WOW, great attention to detail, i'm sure working at a Honda dealer makes it that much easier but glad you still did it right. The 1/4 miles are great for running a stock set of rims though. Cant wait to see the rest of your plans. Keep it up
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Old 02-23-2016, 01:51 PM   #56
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My Australian CB7 parts car has a full sized spare too.

You got coupes in NZ?

There are none in Australia.
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Old 04-13-2016, 03:44 AM   #57
Zombine
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Just a copy paste from my thread on NZH :P

Bit of an update.


So upon leaving work to go to Tauranga to have the CB tuned, Someone in an odyssey pulled a U-Turn in front of me. Cunt.


12814492_1151705258197512_2136487721676859314_n by Craig Kelly, on Flickr


Fully insured, a claim was lodged, And the end result was the CB was declared a total loss and was written off. No structural damage, just a slightly bent radiator support, So was not deregistered. Got paid out for the car.


Pulled the bumper off, Went and had the car tuned anyway. Made 130~wkw @ 6500rpm, Whereas a motor of this spec should make power to 7500. Not too fussed, goes good.


From there, I raced the car at NIMM, Borrowing the slicks off our workshop race car.

Still running full interior, Just slicks and the dampers on my suspension turned up, The car managed a 1.22.


By lunchtime, I had cooked the front brake pads, and the car ended up cooking the rears as a consequence, And they either wore away extremely quickly, or just crumbled away.

1794538_1162564727111565_3437255827422474389_n(1) by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

094 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

084 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr


So just after lunch, I shot back to hamilton, Stopped at BNT and grabbed some new pads, Went to work and threw them in.


I then drove back to meremere dragway to race at the final round of night speed drag wars.

At NSDW I ended up running around the 14.7 mark as far as I remember. Still full interior and street tyres.


12779292_1711201299119726_3718362896031465248_o by Craig Kelly, on Flickr


Between then and this weekend I gathered replacement panels (Bonnet, RF gaurd, bumper, headlight etc)


Fastforward to this weekend, I raced at the Speed Science drag day. Entering the D class, which is 2L+ N/A (I think?). I had some olllld drag radials lined up to use, So I made the most of it and stripped the cars front and rear seats, and spare wheel. I also removed the rear muffler.

Did 2 runs on street tyres, running a 14.5 then a 14.4, both with 2.4 60' times.


I then put the drag radials on, set them at 14psi and went for it. I found if I wasnt limiter launching, It was bogging down badly. After limiter launching it, I ran a 2.1 60'.

Back to the pits, dropped the tyres to 10psi, went back out and managed to run a 13.93 with a 1.99 60'!

20160409_204522 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

11147240_1185819811452723_7801967683265557955_o by Craig Kelly, on Flickr


My last run, I knew the tyres were toast, So gave them a decent send off :P


20 odd runs later, And after winning a spot prize at lunch time, I came second in the elimination rounds to an EG with a 190wkw fully built B series with 26" drag radials

20160409_204439 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr


Car is hopefully going to the panelbeaters in the next couple of weeks to have it repaired

And a couple of videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZxy2e77cgY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIEQX_IcAdQ

And skip to 1:30 in this video for the final between myself and the EG

https://youtu.be/Vr0d7L_cclI

Last edited by Zombine; 04-13-2016 at 03:54 AM.
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:02 AM   #58
Zombine
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Have now completed the 5 Stud swap

Picked up some RA3 Odyssey uprights with calipers and rotors from a local dismantler, $65 per side. Along with some caliper rebuild kits ($13 each), and some cheap pads to get me going for now ($35), The front was completed for a mere $190 Will be going new rotors on the front and some street/track pads later down the line.

The original setup

1 old setup by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

New vs old uprights

2 old vs new uprights by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

rebuilt calipers

3 calipers rebuilt by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

new uprights installed, and rotors skimmed

4 new setup rotors skimmed by Craig Kelly, on Flickr


And with the fronts done, And some spare CM6 Accord wheels we had laying around at work. They have a 205/55R16 tyre on them at the moment, and need a 205/50R16 to be the correct size, and due to the weak offset of +55, They rub on the inner guards on hard lock.

5 CM6 wheels 16x6.5 +55 by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

I have just finished the rears tonight, new wheel bearings from a BB6 prelude, and EK9 / 98+ DC2R rotors, And spaced the ABS sensor out with a couple of washers.

After that, I threw the car on the alignment machine to see how it was.

6 W.A specs by Craig Kelly, on Flickr

Ran out of time, But castor is good, just need to sort camber in front and rear (not sure what im going to do there - do CD Accord front camber arms fit?), and adjust the toe and its all done

Will put some pics up of the car tomorrow
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Old 04-18-2016, 09:41 AM   #59
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Looking good man, glad you came back after the wreck and didn't let it keep you down and out. The burnout shots look awesome, cant wait to see more.
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Old 04-18-2016, 12:08 PM   #60
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Man, that sucks to see that it was hit. It was so clean looking! At least it's fixable. I hope you get it looking as good as it did before!

13.93 is pretty impressive!
Just for reference for guys in the US, you're putting down about 174whp. Less than I imagined for the time you're running, honestly! The slicks must help quite a bit, and you must have a nice fat powerband that works with your gearing! I also wonder if the dyno was reading low (not a big deal, unless you want bragging rights.) A stock base H22A usually puts down about 163whp (about 121wkw).
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