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Old 02-28-2013, 01:46 PM   #1
Guero112
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honda mtf in 92 accord ex??

i have a 92 accord ex MT. Im going to replace my front right drive axle and before i do i wanted to know if its really ok to replace my old tranny oil with Honda MTF.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:51 PM   #2
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I don't see why not.

Id encouage you to change it.

DONT FLUSH THE TRANNY!!!!

Just drain and refil. You can get a new washer, and make sure you clean off the plug as it's magnetized and has metal shavings iirc.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:57 PM   #3
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By plug you do mean drain bolt and filler bolt?
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:26 PM   #4
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That's what he means. If you are replacing an axle, it would also be a good opportunity to replace the axle seal in the transmission.
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #5
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ok thanks guys. i will let you all know how it turns out..
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Old 02-28-2013, 06:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralphie View Post
DONT FLUSH THE TRANNY!!!!

Just drain and refil. You can get a new washer, and make sure you clean off the plug as it's magnetized and has metal shavings iirc.
You know he was reffering to a Manual trans aye?

To the OP - Honda MTF is fine to use.
If you don't know when it was last changed you may as well drain the whole lot and refill with Honda MTF.
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:39 AM   #7
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OEM parts and fluids.
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:46 AM   #8
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You know he was reffering to a Manual trans aye?

To the OP - Honda MTF is fine to use.
If you don't know when it was last changed you may as well drain the whole lot and refill with Honda MTF.
Ya I did, do they not have the magnetized plug?

I couldn't remember if that was only auto's.

If not did I give bad advice?!?!? LOL
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Old 03-01-2013, 09:56 PM   #9
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Ya I did, do they not have the magnetized plug?

I couldn't remember if that was only auto's.

If not did I give bad advice?!?!? LOL
No bad advice; I was more wondering why you said, "DO NOT FLUSH THE TRANNY!!!"

It a manual trans.
#1 - I've NEVER heard of flushing a Manual.
#2 - There is NO reason why flushing a Manual would be an issue.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:07 PM   #10
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GM Synchromesh is also frequently used with good results. I use it myself.
Either way, quality fresh fluid is the best way to keep your transmission healthy. Too many people neglect their transmission fluid.
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Old 03-01-2013, 11:32 PM   #11
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with the honda mt is it safe to run slick 50 in it?
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:34 AM   #12
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Slick 50 is an additive, right? You should never add anything to your transmission fluid. (or your engine oil for that matter.)
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Old 03-02-2013, 09:54 AM   #13
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Slick 50 is an additive, right? You should never add anything to your transmission fluid. (or your engine oil for that matter.)
Good advice. The only time i would try an additive is for a trans to limp it to where i can work on addressing the problem.
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Old 03-02-2013, 10:08 AM   #14
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Right. And at that point, the trans is probably shot anyway.
I'll put anything into a failing engine or transmission if it'll get me home without a towtruck!
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:30 PM   #15
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I know its been beat to death, but I believe your driving style and what you do with the car has alot to do with which lube you should use in the trans.

I race my car regularly, i run 10w-30. If its a grocery getter, you should def go with syncromesh or mtf. A lil of both, use a quart of mtf and a quart of 10w-30.

I change my trans oil regularly and have had zero issues reliability wise. I does make it hard to put in low gear, 1 and 2, when cold. Half and half is a good comprimise if youre not drag racing a few weekends a month without changing the fluid out.
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Old 03-06-2013, 10:20 AM   #16
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Drive it around a bit get it nice and hot and make sure the car is sitting even when you drain it so you get as much of the old stuff out as you can. By this I mean put it on jack stand and then jack up the rear so it's sitting level. Then have like an extra quart of some generic oil to run threw the fill plug and let drain out as much of the old crap as you can. then fill it with the Honda MTF. Seems like over kill to some but I like to be thorough.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:48 PM   #17
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everything seems ok after adding the MTF. 3rd gear doesnt even grind when shifting into it anymore.

unfortunately im having some idle issues now.
starts and warms up just fine. runs fine for awhile but after a few minutes on the road itll start to drop dangerously low when i come to stops..

i have cleaned my iacv and fitv. i attempted to bleed the cooling system but it didnt go as planned for my first crack at it (spilled a lot of coolant ). will try again in 2 days.

also read something about pulling ecu fuse to reset it but wouldnt disconnecting the battery do the same thing?

i know CEL can influence the idle. mine reads o2 sensor i think(did papercip test, CEL came on then off so i red it as CEL code 01. ill replace soon and keep posted.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:18 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guero112 View Post
everything seems ok after adding the MTF. 3rd gear doesnt even grind when shifting into it anymore.

unfortunately im having some idle issues now.
starts and warms up just fine. runs fine for awhile but after a few minutes on the road itll start to drop dangerously low when i come to stops..

i have cleaned my iacv and fitv. i attempted to bleed the cooling system but it didnt go as planned for my first crack at it (spilled a lot of coolant ). will try again in 2 days.

also read something about pulling ecu fuse to reset it but wouldnt disconnecting the battery do the same thing?

i know CEL can influence the idle. mine reads o2 sensor i think(did papercip test, CEL came on then off so i red it as CEL code 01. ill replace soon and keep posted.

Disconnect both battery cables for a few minutes (When I reset my ECU, I left the battery disconnected for 15 minutes). Now, when you reconnect the battery and start the car, do not touch the throttle at all. Let the car idle until the fans kick on which means you've hit a full cooling cycle, and also signals that your ECU is now reset. You always have to do this when repairing anything that effects the throttle body, such as the Air Boost Valve, FIT Valve, Idle Air Control Valve, etc. As for your coolant, you can fill and bleed it the old fashioned way with a funnel that fits in to your radiator and creates a seal between the funnel and radiator opening. Do this when you first start the car. Make sure the radiator cap is off before you start the car, them start the car, insert the funnel in to the top of the radiator making sure it fits snug and pretty much seals. Then, fill the funnel half way with coolant, because you need to keep coolant flowing through the radiator as air bubbles escape, not allowing more air to enter due to the coolant level dropping. To be safe, I usually let the fans cycle three times before I'm done bleeding the coolant. You basically want to keep the cooling system full. Also make sure you set your temp dial to the hottest position on your AC/Heater controls. This will allow the coolant to flow through your heating system also, which is what you want because you need to completely fill the cooling system and anything that utilizes it. Hope that made sense.

Also, another thing that will effect your idle is vacuum leaks from bad gaskets or seals. Another notorious culprit is an intake gasket leak.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:35 PM   #19
Guero112
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I have a complete gasket set so ill try n replace the intake manifold also I ordered a set of 8mm vacuum hoses to replace most vacuum hoses.also I plan on a valve adjustment, and some what tb, Im and injectors cleaning. Still haven't replaced thay o2 sensor
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:50 PM   #20
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Yup, a valve adjustment will make a world of difference sometimes.
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