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Old 01-21-2016, 06:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb9love View Post
One part epoxy's are used in situations where using a two part epoxy would be impractical and the lesser one part epoxy will serve in it's intended use.
I know the difference between the two. The article you mentioned didn't say anything about using 2-part or 1-part epoxy. I also know that many people have used both types with success.
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Old 01-21-2016, 06:38 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by oni_cb7 View Post
I know the difference between the two. The article you mentioned didn't say anything about using 2-part or 1-part epoxy. I also know that many people have used both types with success.
window weld cost the same as the part I showed, so you will not save ant money. Saving money and getting as good or better results is cool, spending the same money to use a product incorrectly is not cool.
When you say success are you referring to initial results or long term results?
Good for a day is different than good for the life of your motor.
Window weld won't even hold my lexan window in on its own, I wouldn't trust it to hold my motor in place.
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Old 01-21-2016, 07:01 PM   #23
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so it's vibrating a ton at idle, not even when moving! That's something stiffer mounts will always do, but I don't think a single mount should produce that much vibration. Something that wobbles only while moving is usually related to suspension (axle, hub, etc). But if its vibrating with JUST the motor running (transmission in neutral) then it sounds like part of the rotating assembly is out of balance! Perhaps the clutch disc or flywheel?
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:32 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cp[mike] View Post
so it's vibrating a ton at idle, not even when moving! That's something stiffer mounts will always do, but I don't think a single mount should produce that much vibration. Something that wobbles only while moving is usually related to suspension (axle, hub, etc). But if its vibrating with JUST the motor running (transmission in neutral) then it sounds like part of the rotating assembly is out of balance! Perhaps the clutch disc or flywheel?
It has to be in gear and "running/driving". It won't shake like that while it is in neutral. Thanks for the help man.

I will probably use the energy suspension urethane if that is the problem.

Can you guy's think of anything else it could be.
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Old 01-22-2016, 08:32 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb9love View Post
Please don't use the window weld it is worse than duck tap on a split finger at the job site.
Use this instead. It's a good DIY method and relatively cheap and easy.
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...nt-Inserts.asp
link fixed
Window-Weld is 60A urethane. Made by 3M, one of the most trusted manufacturers of such things. That's it. It is EXACTLY what you are telling him to use.


As for the vibration, if it only does it when in gear, then it's definitely something outside the engine (which is a good thing.) Mike is absolutely right... something is probably out of balance. Unfortunately, you're probably going to have to pull some things apart to figure out what it is. Clutch or flywheel could be damaged or installed incorrectly. Input shaft could be bent. An axle could be bent. The intermediate shaft could be damaged, or not properly secured. I'd check that stuff in reverse order. If the axles are under warranty, just replace them. If they were remanufactured units, it's not uncommon for such things to be a little wonky out of the box. They sell them at a very low price, so the remaufacturing process probably isn't that intensive... and I know I've exchanged some seriously gnarly cores myself!
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Old 01-22-2016, 12:52 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb9love View Post
window weld cost the same as the part I showed, so you will not save ant money. Saving money and getting as good or better results is cool, spending the same money to use a product incorrectly is not cool.
When you say success are you referring to initial results or long term results?
Good for a day is different than good for the life of your motor.
Window weld won't even hold my lexan window in on its own, I wouldn't trust it to hold my motor in place.
By success... I mean long-term. 100,000 plus miles on an h22 swap with window weld filled mounts. Never an issue and held up just as well as anyone using 2-part epoxy.

Seems like you are having trouble with the process of installation, not the durability and quality of the product. The main design of window weld is to bond and seal where the window meets. If it isn't working for you, then I would dare say that it is not the product but the process.

There's a reason why 3M is one of the most successful companies creating these type of products (among millions of other things).
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Old 01-22-2016, 04:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oni_cb7 View Post
By success... I mean long-term. 100,000 plus miles on an h22 swap with window weld filled mounts. Never an issue and held up just as well as anyone using 2-part epoxy.

Seems like you are having trouble with the process of installation, not the durability and quality of the product. The main design of window weld is to bond and seal where the window meets. If it isn't working for you, then I would dare say that it is not the product but the process.

There's a reason why 3M is one of the most successful companies creating these type of products (among millions of other things).
This is the reply I got from 3M on the subject,


Thank you for contacting 3M, where we apply science to life.

The 3M™ Super Fast Urethane, Black, 10 fluid ounce cartridge, 08609 is not intended and designed for this purpose. 3M has no intentions of designing and testing such a product for this application as this is not a market 3M Automotive Aftermarket Division specializes in. We would suggest you do testing to see if this meets your requirements.

So by 3M's word,
If it works for you, but we won't endorse it.
Sorry for suggesting what I think is a superior product for the same cost.

Duct tape works good for taping up your finger, just make sure you get a rag in there to soak up the blood.
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:33 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cb9love View Post
This is the reply I got from 3M on the subject,


Thank you for contacting 3M, where we apply science to life.

The 3M™ Super Fast Urethane, Black, 10 fluid ounce cartridge, 08609 is not intended and designed for this purpose. 3M has no intentions of designing and testing such a product for this application as this is not a market 3M Automotive Aftermarket Division specializes in. We would suggest you do testing to see if this meets your requirements.

So by 3M's word,
If it works for you, but we won't endorse it.
Sorry for suggesting what I think is a superior product for the same cost.

Duct tape works good for taping up your finger, just make sure you get a rag in there to soak up the blood.
This still doesn't explain your argument. This will be the same response you get from a company that makes any type of urethane/epoxy. Filling motor mounts is not what urethane/epoxy was designed for.

Back to the original point. The link you posted suggested using 60a urethane/epoxy and did not specify 1 or 2-part. 3m Window Weld matches the description in the link you posted. At this point, it's not that 3m has an inferior product (many cb7tuners have had great experiences with it); it's that 3m is not your personal preference and you would rather use a different product. Fair enough.

If you put superglue on the cut before the duct tape, then you'll be fine.

Back to the OP:

It seems like the motor mount is not the likely issue for you. Check the other components that have been mentioned. I almost want to bet that the axle could be the issue.

Good luck!
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Old 01-22-2016, 05:40 PM   #29
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The 2-part stuff that ES sells is exactly the same as the industrial-grade stuff people recommend getting from mcmaster-carr. I would highly recommend 2-part over the 1-part 3M stuff. It's better at filling all of the cracks, it cures internally, plus it adheres better to the sides of the mount. It tends to not only look nicer, but also end up being reliable for much longer.


btw, I would try taking the passenger axle out completely. See if it still vibrates. That will tell you if its something in the driveline/axle/hub, or if its something inside of the transmission (clutch/flywheel). Hopefully not coming from INSIDE the guts of the transmission.... where did you source the trans from? Known good, or possibly bad?
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:37 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by cp[mike] View Post
The 2-part stuff that ES sells is exactly the same as the industrial-grade stuff people recommend getting from mcmaster-carr. I would highly recommend 2-part over the 1-part 3M stuff. It's better at filling all of the cracks, it cures internally, plus it adheres better to the sides of the mount. It tends to not only look nicer, but also end up being reliable for much longer.


btw, I would try taking the passenger axle out completely. See if it still vibrates. That will tell you if its something in the driveline/axle/hub, or if its something inside of the transmission (clutch/flywheel). Hopefully not coming from INSIDE the guts of the transmission.... where did you source the trans from? Known good, or possibly bad?
I'll try that tomorrow. It is from a parts car that had over 200k miles and they, of course said the transmission is ok. Ugh. I hope it's not the tranny.
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Old 01-24-2016, 02:57 PM   #31
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I wasn't able to take the axle out yet. I'll try to get to it tonight, it's a brand new axle from oreilly's not a reman. It's all a new clutch kit and I installed it according to the Accord manual so I think I installed it all in the right way.

If the vibration/shake goes away with the axle out could it be old/bad rear and driver mount?
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Old 01-25-2016, 12:54 AM   #32
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I wasn't able to take the axle out yet. I'll try to get to it tonight, it's a brand new axle from oreilly's not a reman. It's all a new clutch kit and I installed it according to the Accord manual so I think I installed it all in the right way.

If the vibration/shake goes away with the axle out could it be old/bad rear and driver mount?
if you remove the axl and it stops then i say that is youre issue or something connected to it on the other end .
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Old 02-01-2016, 08:07 PM   #33
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if you remove the axl and it stops then i say that is youre issue or something connected to it on the other end .
Sorry I took so long. Been going through a lot.

I took the axle out and the shaking stopped. what could be the problem guy's?
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Old 02-02-2016, 04:29 AM   #34
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Sorry I took so long. Been going through a lot.

I took the axle out and the shaking stopped. what could be the problem guy's?
axle could bent just so slightly . try a different one a known good .
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:48 AM   #35
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axle could bent just so slightly . try a different one a known good .
Okay, It's brand new one, not reman from oreilly's but I've heard horror stories about their axle's.

I wonder if I should get my money back and go somewhere else or try a couple others.

Could there be something wrong with the output shaft to the axle to cause the shake?
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:07 PM   #36
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Hey guy's I solved the problem. I had the passenger side axle in the half shaft on the drivers side and I have the drivers side axle in the passenger side before I bought a passenger side axle. But it ended up being the axles being on the wrong sides.

Thank you to everyone for the help!!
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:49 PM   #37
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Glad you got it figured out! An easy mistake to make, they are incredibly similar and not labelled.
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