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Old 09-16-2005, 08:39 PM   #1
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SUSP : Rack and Pinion

Tools:

Ratchet

10, 12, 14 &16mm sockets

Extension Bar

12, 14 and 17mm wrench

Container to pour the old power steering fluid in

Breaker bar or long pipe

1.5 pints of power steering fluid

Jack Stands

Jack

Oil Pan

Helper Monkey





Disclaimer: What follows is what I did to replace the Rack and Pinion on my ’92 Honda Accord EX. There might be a difference between models especially if your car is not equipped with Power Steering. Please follow these directions at your own risk, I am not responsible if you lose a limb or if you burn yourself when you’re checking for leaks and you accidentally touch the exhaust with your forearm…believe me, it hurts…err, or so I’ve been told. Now on to the DIY



1. First raise the car and place it securely on jack stands. When raising the whole front end I like placing the jack where the engine crossbeam meets the chassis and lifting both front wheels at the same time.



2. Now disconnect the power steering fluid return hose and empty out the reservoir into a small container. Be ready with a cup because as soon as you disconnect the hose the fluid will start pouring out until the reservoir is empty.





3. Now this is where the helper monkey comes in to play…if you don’t have a helper monkey and hot chick will do…if you don’t have a hot chick then I guess your geeky neighbor will do. Have him turn the car on while you are at the power steering reservoir. As soon as the car turns on you will see the rest of the fluid start gushing out (which filled up my cup rather quickly). If need be, turn the car off and dispose of the fluid that has filled up your cup…there is still more in the system and you need to try to get it all out. Now turn the car on again and have your helper monkey turn the steering wheel from lock position to lock position until no more fluid is coming out of the hose…you have successfully drained the power steering fluid. Now reconnect the hose but DO NOT refill the reservoir yet.



4. Now go in the car and start removing the steering rack cover that is held in place by 3 plastic screws at the base and 2 ring springs on the column. Just unscrew the 3 plastic screws by hand and pull down on the ring springs until they pop off. Now just peel the plastic cover off and the steering rack will be exposed.







5. There are 2 10mm bolts that hold the rack and pinion to the steering rack. Turn the steering wheel until you are able to get to the 2 bolts. Remove them and slide the joint up.







6. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut that connects the tie rod to the knuckle. Use a ball joint remover to safely disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle without damaging the ball joint.



7. Removing the tie rod makes it easier and gives you more room to remove the rack and pinion later. You do this by turning the nut at the end of the tie rod to your right while turning the tie rod to your left. Count how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod and write it down somewhere so when you are installing them onto the new R/P your toe will not be way off.





8. Disconnect the oxygen sensor and remove the b-pipe of the exhaust (3 14mm bolts at the header and 3 14mm bolts that connect to the exhaust) and the hanger that is connected to the engine cross bar






9. Remove the 3 10mm bolts that hold up the cover that exposes the lines that connect to the R/P



10. Use the wrenches to disconnect the 4 lines from the R/P…a small amount of power steering fluid will leak out.



11. Now remove the 4 bolts that hold the R/P to the chassis of the car. 2 Bolts are found next to where the lines are connected and 2 are located on a bracket near the driver side. Now you can remove the R/P by wiggling it out and to the right to clear the various body parts.





Here is a side by side shot of the old and new R/P. Notice the tear on the passenger side boot…that’s how I knew it needed to get replaced. Plus there was a lot of play at the tie rods on the old R/P and none on the new R/P.



12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the new R/P--> Connect the 4 hoses--> Install the exhaust b-pipe, hanger and oxygen sensor--> Install the Tie rods--> Connect them to the knuckle--> Connect the R/P to the steering rack--> Place the steering rack cover on.


13. Now refill the reservoir checking that there are no leaks. Turn the car on and turn the steering wheel from lock to lock to bleed the system from air. Add more fluid as needed (I used about a pint and a half). Now get under the car again and check that there are no leaks coming from the 4 hoses. If there are not any, place the cover back on and you are done. Put the wheels back on and lower your car and take her out for a spin checking afterwards if you need to add more fluid. Now go get an alignment and you’re done…enjoy your new steering R/P.





*note* when disposing of old power steering fluid, I simply placed it in an oil can and took it to my friendly neighborhood oil recycling center and disposed of it there…DO NOT pour it down a storm drain because I will get green peace to kick your @$$!



As always, feedback is always welcomed.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzbob7
first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACC0RD22
no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
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Old 09-20-2005, 12:52 AM   #2
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Awesome write-up. Where did you get the r and p? How much? And how long did it take you with a friend to finish?
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Old 09-20-2005, 01:13 AM   #3
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as allways great DIY. My car doesn't need it but I'm sure it will in the near future. And like the other person said.... how much are we talking about here?
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Old 09-20-2005, 01:20 AM   #4
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beautiful DIY, nice pics and explaination... will definately help out some of the members, i know of a couple that wanted to know how to do this.
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- 1993 Accord LX - White sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (wrecked)
- 1991 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1990 Accord EX - Grey sedan (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - White sedan (sold)
- 1992 Accord EX - White coupe (sold)
- 1993 Accord EX - Grey coupe (stolen)
- 1993 Accord SE - Gold coupe (sold)
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Old 09-20-2005, 02:05 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by [mike]
beautiful DIY, nice pics and explaination... will definately help out some of the members, i know of a couple that wanted to know how to do this.

like me!

hey ramiro how about i have you do my rack and pinion and ill pay you LOL..
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Old 09-20-2005, 09:09 AM   #6
starchland
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starchland may have said something they shouldn't have...
thank for this, I appreciate it. where did you buy the rack from? and did you notice your car tracked better/tighter steering,etc? Im still trying to find a quicker ratio steering.
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Old 09-20-2005, 09:49 PM   #7
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i gave up on improved steering and just went the stock way...the r&p cost me 119.00 and it took me about 6 hours i think...i could cut the time alot now though...the first time always takes longer...and i did it myself, i only needed my friend to turn the steering wheel wheni was draining the fluid other than that, i did it all
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzbob7
first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACC0RD22
no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
So. Cal OUTLAWZ
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Old 12-25-2005, 08:51 PM   #8
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cool website...ill be putting my r&p in tomorrow.....im going to try and beat your 6 hours though lol......and im a diy female so well see ill let ya know how it goes....

p.s thanks for your info i thought i was going to be going into this not knowing what the hell was going on...done everything under the sun to a car but anything with steering........so much THANKS for your info.
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Old 12-27-2005, 11:41 PM   #9
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good write-up... i took out p/s andive been running a dry rack for a while and steering has gotten a little loose and sloppy, sorta scary now... so i plan on replacing my r/p soon... did you notice tighter steering and on a scale of 1-10 how difficult was it? thanks
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Old 12-28-2005, 07:33 PM   #10
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good luck accord girlie...if you have done alot of things to your car then this will be a piece of cake...after doing things once its just easier and quicker to do it the next time so imsure youll be able to beat my 6 hours with no problem...but on a scale of 1-10 i'll give it a 5...pretty staright forward its just hard to remove the exhaust bolts since theyre stuck on there pretty good...if you have air tools it'll be alot easier but very do-able with hand tools
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzbob7
first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACC0RD22
no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
So. Cal OUTLAWZ
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Old 01-02-2006, 03:49 PM   #11
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it took about 3 hours but i had a lift and power tools.....pain in the butt thing to do but it had to be done haha well thanks for your info once again.....
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Old 01-02-2006, 07:37 PM   #12
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hey thats great! im glad i helped out another fellow cb7tuner...i think my next DIY will be installing the jdm window visors...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzbob7
first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACC0RD22
no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
So. Cal OUTLAWZ
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Old 01-02-2006, 08:46 PM   #13
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Great How-To, nice pics and explanations.

A few things I would like to add:

Before you disconnect the rack from the steering wheel, turn the steering wheel/rack all the wayto the left. This will compress the inner tie rod ends on the drivers side, making the rack come out easier.

And be precise when marking the threads before you diconnect the tie rod ends. It is best to get an alignment as a bad toe setting will eat tires alive, but if you feel it is correct, and dont notice any vibration/weird tire wear after you are finished, you should be good to go.
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Old 05-03-2006, 03:20 PM   #14
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bump, I knew I would be needing this! Ramiro... did you ever mention where you got your R&P from? Would any auto parts store do? Just trying to see if it's better to get one from Majestic or elsewhere? Thanks In advance.
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Old 05-03-2006, 07:23 PM   #15
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the majestic would be oe...i got mine from an auto parts store
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzbob7
first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACC0RD22
no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
So. Cal OUTLAWZ
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Old 05-03-2006, 09:58 PM   #16
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this might be a noobish question, but why is this necessary to do? like what is the point of it, and what would happen if you don't do it? Thanks
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Old 05-04-2006, 12:45 AM   #17
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you change it because...well it need to be changed. the boots are ripped and all the grease leaks out...and if you dont change it, over time your steering wheel will lock in place and you wont be able to turn your steering wheel at all which is bad if youre on the freeway or something
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzbob7
first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACC0RD22
no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
So. Cal OUTLAWZ
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Old 05-04-2006, 01:47 AM   #18
starchland
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starchland may have said something they shouldn't have...
what symptoms did you feel that made you replace the rack?
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Old 05-05-2006, 12:15 AM   #19
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steering was a bit tougher...like i needed both hands to turn the steering wheel quickly...not as bad as without power steering but it was getting kinda bad...i looked underneath and notice the boot on the passenger side was torn so i replaced it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fizzbob7
first off, don't be a sissy bitch.....that's what you're being
Quote:
Originally Posted by ACC0RD22
no need to get sand in your vagina over this guys.
So. Cal OUTLAWZ
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Old 05-20-2006, 09:32 PM   #20
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just found out my steering rack and pinion is F*** UP bad.... BTW i dont have a power steering and i took out one of the main lines. do any of you guys think that if i change it, it will get fucked up again cuz theres no fluid in it?

oh yea how much is R/P brand new at any parts store(autozone or oriely)?
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