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Old 08-20-2016, 08:21 PM   #81
H311RA151N
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Got the fog light back in. Both work.

I had to paint the inside a little and it isn't as shinny inside as the other so I'm going to keep and eye out for a good replacement.

Car has pine twigs all over it in pic. Damn pine trees.

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Old 08-21-2016, 06:25 PM   #82
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Just remembered it's almost time for an oil change. I don't know what the dealership put in it but I know it has a Mopar oil filter.

After some research I decided on Royal Purple 10w30 and an OEM Mitsubishi oil filter.
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Old 08-23-2016, 05:48 PM   #83
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Royal Purple 10W30 will be here tomorrow.

OEM Mitsubishi oil filter will be here Thursday.

Used OEM timing cover will be here Thursday.

Headlights no ETA on.
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Old 08-25-2016, 01:40 AM   #84
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4G63T Timing cover, Royal Purple 10w30 and OEM Mitsubishi oil filter.

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Old 08-31-2016, 10:19 PM   #85
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Headlights arrived.

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Old 09-18-2016, 10:43 PM   #86
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I got the Evo 8 BOV installed. This time permanently.

Shortly after getting the car I preformed a boost leak test in which I found the factory BOV was leaking. So I bought an Evo 8 BOV as a replacement and also as an upgrade. Once I installed it I noticed the boost spiking to around 20psi after initially building boost then settling down to where it's suppose to which is 15psi. So I took it off.

Now that I have the mechanical Autometer boost gauge installed it still builds a little more boost than it should but not nearly as much as the other gauge read. About 17psi which quickly settles to 15psi. I found out this is ok and typical of the stock T25. So I installed the Evo 8 BOV again.

I drove the car to work and back once last week. About 20 miles one way. I found that the car gets much better MPG. I was getting 15-16 MPG before and I'd estimate that I'm getting about 22-23 MPG now.

The car runs better. The throttle is a lot smoother. It builds boost at lower RPM's with less throttle. And it really sets you back in the seat when you want it to.

I've always been told that small turbos on a daily increase wear on the engine as they are in boost when cruising down the highway. I don't know about other turbo cars but when cruising down the highway at 60 my boost gauge shows almost 0 if not a little vacuum. Unless I'm going up an incline it's not in boost.

Still yet, I don't care for how snappy the T25 is. A little more lag would be nice. I don't like how just a little throttle is the difference between a few psi and 15. It would be nice to have a happy medium. The car moves out at half throttle almost like it does at full throttle. Which makes it hard to pass people etc without being excessive.
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Old 09-18-2016, 11:20 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
I got the Evo 8 BOV installed. This time permanently.

Shortly after getting the car I preformed a boost leak test in which I found the factory BOV was leaking. So I bought an Evo 8 BOV as a replacement and also as an upgrade. Once I installed it I noticed the boost spiking to around 20psi after initially building boost then settling down to where it's suppose to which is 15psi. So I took it off.

Now that I have the mechanical Autometer boost gauge installed it still builds a little more boost than it should but not nearly as much as the other gauge read. About 17psi which quickly settles to 15psi. I found out this is ok and typical of the stock T25. So I installed the Evo 8 BOV again.

I drove the car to work and back once last week. About 20 miles one way. I found that the car gets much better MPG. I was getting 15-16 MPG before and I'd estimate that I'm getting about 22-23 MPG now.

The car runs better. The throttle is a lot smoother. It builds boost at lower RPM's with less throttle. And it really sets you back in the seat when you want it to.

I've always been told that small turbos on a daily increase wear on the engine as they are in boost when cruising down the highway. I don't know about other turbo cars but when cruising down the highway at 60 my boost gauge shows almost 0 if not a little vacuum. Unless I'm going up an incline it's not in boost.

Still yet, I don't care for how snappy the T25 is. A little more lag would be nice. I don't like how just a little throttle is the difference between a few psi and 15. It would be nice to have a happy medium. The car moves out at half throttle almost like it does at full throttle. Which makes it hard to pass people etc without being excessive.
Have you looked into ecu tuning options with the stock ecu? Quick google search pulled up some promising options that might make your daily driving issues a little better.
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:13 PM   #88
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Quote:
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Have you looked into ecu tuning options with the stock ecu? Quick google search pulled up some promising options that might make your daily driving issues a little better.
The ECM Link V3 is what I'm after once I feel comfortable letting go of that much dough. It's $600 plus I have a non-Eprom ECU so the socketing service is about $150. Worth it I just don't want to drop the cash right now.

I drove it to work today and blew the boost gauge line off at the T. So I need to take care of this little issue.
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Old 09-28-2016, 01:14 PM   #89
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Woke up not feeling well this morning, used a sick day and wound up working on this thing a bit.

Changed the oil. Royal Purple 10w30 and an OEM Mitsubishi oil filter.

Oil was changed by the dealer previously before I bought it at 97,489. Today I changed it at 100,611. So it went 3122 on the previous oil and filter. About a hundred miles over what I wanted.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:24 PM   #90
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Worked on getting the Autometer oil pressure gauge installed today. Getting the gauges into the cluster bezel takes a bit of modification to the black pieces that secure the gauge in the pod/cluster. I got that done and the gauge is now physically in the bezel. The bezel and gauges are not secured in the photo. Just an idea of what it's going to look like when complete.

I was unable to run the stainless braided line from the oil filter housing to the gauge because the hole in the firewall that the previous owner made (looks like shit btw) is too small. I'm not going to half ass the hole in the firewall as I want the grommet to fit nicely as it should. I have a tool at work that basically goes in the end of a drill, extends 6" and turns to a 45* angle where the desired bit to be used goes. It's small and should do the job as long as I can get my hands on a very small hole saw. I might end up having to use a drill bit. We will see.

Its going to look great when it's done I think. It's not functional yet but still a step in the right direction. I wanted to stay away from an A pillar pod as I have a hard enough time looking around the factory A pillar in traffic. That and I want to keep items that give away information out of view for the most part.





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Old 09-29-2016, 06:54 PM   #91
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Pics aren't working boss.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:03 PM   #92
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Pics aren't working boss.
Really?

Like none of them or just the ones I posted today?
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Old 09-29-2016, 08:52 PM   #93
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Just the new ones
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:07 PM   #94
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Just the new ones
Ok, I'm pretty sure I fixed it. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:37 PM   #95
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I ordered Wagner Thermoquiet pads for the front and rear. Front got here but rear didn't yet. Also got a BAFX bluetooth adapter for pulling CEL's and monitoring.

20161001_160040 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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Old 10-06-2016, 12:00 AM   #96
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Ok, I'm starting to make headway and it's fighting me a little. I have an OBD2 bluetooth adapter and it can't find the ECU. It works via phone (torque app) and the phone and adapter will connect but not the ECU. So this could be several problems.

I've been researching and I've purchased a VAG-COM USB KKL 409.1 cable that is actually designed for Audi, BMW, VW. The car being a 98/99 has a flashable ECU. With the cable, a program called Evoscan and the correct driver I will be able to datalog. Which is what I'm after. Going in with my laptop and Evoscan I will be able to rule out an OBD2 scanner/adapter issue if the connectivity issue with the ECU persists. If not I'll be able to datalog which is the purpose anyhow. The cable ran me $20 shipped.

I know the car is pulling timing on me. That's what I'm worried about. This could be one of a couple issues.

It's boost spiking to 17-19psi isn't normal (if the boost gauge is accurate.) I remember reading that it was but that is false. This wouldn't directly cause it to pull timing but the lack of fuel it can create will. Earlier in this thread I stated that the fuel filter is factory original and is seized. That's why I bought the Fuel Lab 818. I also purchased a Walbro 190 kit and STM fuel pump rewire kit.

I'm going to tackle this ASAP.

I purchased an OEM fuel tank gasket which is all I lack to get this done. The gasket ran me $20.

This still doesn't take care of the boost spike issue though. So, for this I need to do another boost leak test but this time in a much more accurate manner using a gauge instead of listening for leaks. And I need to test the wategate. Which involves removing it from the turbocharger. I will also add that the previous owner didn't install their boost gauge in the proper location. I installed mine where they installed theirs and it's wrong. Way wrong. The right location is on the throttlebody. So I need to do this as well to ensure an accurate boost reading.

Lastly, it could be a lifter(s). There are a couple more things that could cause it but those listed in this post are the first to check and the most likely culprits. As for the lifters from the factory they have oiling holes that become a little bit too small when they start getting any mileage on them at all. Even 30,000. My lifters do make a little noise but not bad. Still this can trigger the knock sensor into thinking it's detonation thus pulling timing. I don't think this is it but once I can datalog it will tell me if it's pulling timing due to knock. The lifters aren't hard to replace. With the right tool you don't have to remove the cams.

I purchased a digital tire inflator which connects to the schrader valve on my STM boost leak tester. It allows me to put air in and monitor the pressure. I need to hold XX amount of PSI for 30 seconds without dropping below XX PSI. It probably has boost leaks but I'm unsure as to how bad. Before the OEM 2g BPV leaked so horribly I couldn't not notice it.

And for the brakes. I bought a set of Wagner pads for the front and rear already. But after looking more at the rear rotors I realized they are pitted. So I bought brake stuff. Wager rotors and caliper guide pin boots. Carlson guide pins. A Dorman speed bleeder set.

I also bought a Mann replacement air filter. Can't hurt, current one's a little dirty.

So.

-Installing the boost gauge correctly comes first.

-Then a boost leak test.

-Followed by a wastegate test.

-Try and get into the ECU with Evoscan and the VAG-COM cable. (Either it'll work or it won't. If not I've got to trace the issue down.)


I know this is a lot of stuff specific to this vehicle and that maybe no one cares. But I keep this thread updated for my records and also so I can put everything "on paper". As well as share progress, pics etc. This forum seems to be the most stable and a place where it's allowed. And an appriactive bunch as well.
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Old 10-08-2016, 07:25 PM   #97
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Arrival of some parts today. Received the order from Rock Auto and the digital tire inflator.

20161008_160145 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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Old 10-12-2016, 12:22 AM   #98
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I have everything I need to run the tests except an air compressor. Which I will borrow from work Friday.

I have been reading about datalogging and have purchased everything I need in order to run logs on Evoscan. I have Evoscan V2.6 and ECUFlash. I don't know if I have the right drivers installed yet.

I received the rest of my orders today.

Two different brands of compression fitting sleeves, the Vag-Com cable, an OBD extension cable, and some 2-in-1 oil for putting the AN fittings together when I install the FuelLab system.

2016-10-11_11-11-08 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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Old 10-13-2016, 10:47 PM   #99
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I'm still working on CeddyMods and ECUFlash 1.44. But I have EvoScan v2.9 very close to being operable. I have the Vag Com 409.1 cable working with Evoscan now with the correct driver.

Where I'm at with Evoscan while attempting to datalog.

ScreenShot_20161013213824 by jcarden405, on Flickr

Top right hand corner...


Info: AutoReconect Retry#4
Info: Initialize Vehicle ECU...
Info: Initializing At 5 baud...
Info: Timer: 1833.3838ms
Info: PC CPU 5baudrate 3673ms
Info: QPFreq: 2338445
Info: CPU Timer Factor Applied: 1
Info: Initialization Complete...
Info: Waiting for INIT Response...
Error: No Response from Vehicle ECU
Info: Datalogger Ended.


And while attempting to display DTC's.


Info: Attempt baudrate MUTII.
Info: Initialize Vehicle ECU...
Info: Initializing At 5 baud...
Info: Arithmetic operation resulted in an overflow.
Info: Check DTCs Complete.

I'll get it there. It just takes time. I'm no expert at this and knew nothing what so ever when I started on this a few days ago.
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:54 PM   #100
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A little update.

I disconnected the boost control solenoid lines that go to the wastegate actuator and intake tube. Then I connected the wastegate nipple to the nipple on the turbo housing. If the BCS is faulty this should reduce the boost down to about 10psi from what I've read. I haven't test driven the car yet.

I checked the turbocharger. 6 months and about 2500 miles ago the T25 had zero shaft play. Now it's about shot from running too much boost. Not surprised.

I'm currently sourcing a used 14b. There isn't a new replacement T25 wastegate actuator with the correct DSM flange within the universe. My plan is to send the 14b off to Turbo Lab of America to be rebuilt then throw it on the car with the help of an ExtremePSI install kit. Wastegate actuators for the 14b are abundant and the turbocharger it's self is said to be more durable.

While I was at it I cleaned the MAF. It wasn't very dirty. And installed a new Mann air filter.

I suspect either the wastegate actuator or the BCS is what's causing the boost spike. The BCS has been eliminated. As far as I know, the culprit of the boost spiking has been narrowed down to a faulty wastegate actuator or a boost leak. I will be preforming a very thorough boost leak test tomorrow.

The c-clip on the wastegate actuator shaft was so rusted that it broke in half. So I've ordered several replacements.

20161014_180752 by jcarden405, on Flickr

20161014_180813 by jcarden405, on Flickr
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