fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX

[Raf99]

wow........... was that your vacation? D00d, you just worked on that vehicle day in and day out, but for your daughter so I hope she appreciates it!!

And ya... honing cyclinder walls is a huge thing! Good job man! I'm assuming the body on this vehicle is in really good shape

[Fleetw00d]

Not quite day and night - evenings and weekends when the weather was nice (in the driveway).

Yeah, the body is in good shape. I'm not sure what Honda did with these, but I've never seen a rusty one - maybe hidden behind the plastic fenders. Only really rusty part was the trailer hitch. I was able to get two of the four main bolts out, but had to pay a shop to get the other two off to remove the hitch and retrieve the bolts from inside the frame boxes.

Oct. 18, 2019: Three weeks later, my daughter says the oil level hasn't changed a bit.

Oct. 27, 2019: She drove it to Des Moines yesterday (starts a new job tomorrow). Oil level hasn't changed, but she had a P1009 fault code come up (VTEC oil control valve). Must be intermittent, the light has since gone out.

Dec. 19, 2019: She's put 5,000 miles on it since September, only a small amount of oil usage in that time.

Dec. 24 ,2019: Home for Christmas maintenance. Slight oil leaks at oil pressure switch and timing chain tensioner cover; installed new switch and Hondabonded the cover. Oil and filter change. Installed new hood pull cable (inside handle broke; not a separate lever like the CB7). She had a catalytic converter efficiency code on her way to Des Moinse and they quoted $2200 to change the converter. We left it alone and it hasn't returned; I'm think the 5000 miles of highway driving has burned all the oil out of the converter and off the sensors.

[Fleetw00d]

This one is coming full circle. This daughter was getting tired of the P2646 codes that were diagnosed as low oil pressure; she bought a 2018 CR-V LX AWD with about 24,000 miles on it. They reportedly did $2000 worth of work on it (certified) including new tires; comes with a 150,000 mile power train warranty. I'm going to take the Element off her hands and see what I can do with the oil pressure. It'll give me something to drive if I actually try to deal with the rust on Ruby again.

[Fleetw00d]

My neighbor graciously allowed me the use of his 2005 F250 diesel, rented a tow dolly, drove from southwest OH to Des Moines, IA (600 miles) Thursday evening, loaded up Friday morning and got back home about 7:30 PM. The truck got about 16 mpg for the whole trip - it didn't really seem to care that it had the Element behind it.

After the initial diagnosis of low oil pressure (about 5 psig at idle), she started running 5W30, which reduced but didn't eliminate the P2646 issues. I confirmed today that the last oil change they didn't remember this and put 5W20 back in, so P2646 started cropping up again more frequently. She didn't have a problem until it was good and warmed up and she'd back out of the throttle at highway speeds.

First thing I'm going to do is install an oil pressure gage so I can monitor the oil pressure. First with the 5W20 that's in it; then maybe switch to 5W40 (Mobil 1 makes one that is advertised for turbodiesels - I suppose because of the heat). I'd like to avoid jumping right to a 20W50 if I can. I did a partial rebuild (honed cylinders, rings, rod bearings) in summer 2019 to get the oil consumption from a quart almost every tank of gas to not needing any between 5,000 mile changes. Since then I've been trying to figure out a way to replace the crank bearings without removing the engine. I have also been trying to figure out a way to tell if the low oil pressure is a worn out pump, or the engine itself.

Still very little rust underneath for a vehicle that has spent most of its life in the midwest. The rear bumper beam is rusty, but still feels solid - may pull it and have it derusted and powder coated to preserve it.

[PakaloloHonda]

Holy .... Moly! I just hope my "refresh" comes out half as gorgeous ...
You are simply an asset to this site

[Fleetw00d]

Installed an oil pressure gauge yesterday. Ran it in the driveway. Initial oil pressure on start 70 psi, dropped to 15 psi at idle as the temperature reached operating temperature. A minute or two at 2000-3000 rpm, 11 psi at idle. Another minute or two at 2000-3000 rpm, 7-8 psi at idle (supposed to be 10 psi minimum). Once it is legal (notary in Iowa didn't sign the title, had to send it back to my daughter to get it signed), I'll drive it a bit to see how low it drops on the road, then switch to 5W40 oil.

20210710_202450 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

[Fleetw00d]

Did the 5W20 to 5W40 oil change last weekend. I did about a ten mile drive with the 5W20, then checked the pressure at idle, 1000, 2000, 3000, and 4,000 rpm. Then changed the oil and repeated the process with the 5W40. Pressure at 3000 rpm is supposed to be 44 psi minimum. According to some other Element owners, the VTEC solenoid for the exhaust rockers switches on at about 2200 rpm. Based on a teardown of a valve assembly and the pin in the rocker arm, it requires about 35 psi to operate the system.

RPM	5W20 (whatever the Honda dealer put in)	5W40 Mobil 1 (for European cars)
Idle	7-8 psig	11 psig
1000	12	16
2000	27	37
3000	48	61
4000	66	72

Now I need to take it on a longer drive to see if this addressed the P2646 code.

[Fleetw00d]

I've put about 400 miles on it since the oil change. No codes. One full tank of mixed, but mostly highway at 63 mph or less, yielded 30 mpg - I guess it is running OK.

[Fleetw00d]

Drove it about 280 miles today, 140 of that continuous highway. No codes.

[Fleetw00d]

Now about 2700 miles since the oil change. The engine doesn't get truly warmed up until driven for 30+ minutes; this is based on the fact that it takes that long before the oil pressure drops to about 8 psi at idle. Still no codes. Thinking about adding an oil cooling system for when the temperature exceeds a certain point.

Oct. 17: About 3200 miles since the oil change. No codes. Found one at Bessler's U Pull and Save yesterday; spent too much. I took just one of the roof trim pieces on Saturday; then I looked at the list prices from Honda. Not that the roof trim is something that needs to be replaced much, but Majestic's prices for the pieces I went back for today would total $3000; I paid $70.

[Fleetw00d]

Well, I procrastinated long enough on putting a catalytic converter shield on this one - it was stolen Tuesday afternoon in the parking lot at work between 2:00 - 4:30. If I had been standing up at my desk I could have watched. No cameras on the outside of the building. Liability only insurance. Only bright spot is another Element forum member's donation of a used OEM converter (needs one flange replaced) to minimize the repair expense (OEM Honda converter lists for $2400!! - would have gone aftermarket). When it rains, it pours; the following day Ruby refused to start while out for lunch. Clutch interlock switch button on the pedal arm failed, but replacing it hasn't corrected the problem. Tracing relays and wiring. Can still start it by turning the key "on", then jumping the starter solenoid.

Dec. 22, 2021: Custom exhaust shop welded on a new flange and installed the converter with new gaskets, bolts, springs, and nuts. $140 Codes have cleared.

Fuse #9 in the Accord had blown (I thought it also powered the "BRAKE" warning light which still came on. Replaced the fuse, it starts on its own again.

[Fleetw00d]

Now 9,000+ miles since switching to 5W40; still no codes. I miss Ruby.

[Fleetw00d]

16,000 miles since switching to 5W40; still running well. Averaging almost 24 mpg. Changed the color scheme some and replaced the entire rear suspension.