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H311RA151N : 1993 Accord EX

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    #46
    Yesterday this car had an issue where it was shut off for about 5 mins after a 45 min drive and wouldn't start. It would crank but not start. I noticed the D4 light was flashing so I pulled the codes. (TCU) 1, 2, 3, 7, and 8. The car sat for about 10 mins and I tried to start it again and it started and ran with no D4 light or CEL's. I shut the car off then disconnected the battery cables for 45 seconds. After reconnecting I pulled the codes once more. This time (TCU) 1, 2, 7, 8. I then attempted to start the car and it started and ran with no CEL's.

    I researched quite a bit last night and came across threads on here where this happened to others and it wound up being the main relay. So I checked mine and this is what I found.

    \

    This is what I did.




    And this is what I used.




    Hopefully this was the issue.




    Comment


      #47
      Installed the main relay after repair and everything has been good so far.

      Before I threw it in I checked the values and continuity of my repair. Apparently I did good enough. It's tested out to be as solid of a connection as it gets.




      After starting the car I began to smell a trace amount of fuel. I thought to myself "you fucked up when you installed that new fuel filter a couple weeks back and you've been pissing fuel ever since" but, fuel filter was dry as a bone. Shortly after that I found a leaking injector. On number 4. Not real bad. I twisted it a tad and it quit. But new injector seals are in order.




      Figured I would check the base ignition timing just to double check my work from a couple weeks ago. Still dead on.




      Running an Ohms check on my shift solenoids. Got my notes out as you can see. The TCU was telling me during the episode it had yesterday with D4 flashing and not starting that the shift solenoids were bad. Looks like it may be right. There was an audible difference in the click from one solenoid and the other 3. It was much louder than the others so that tells me 3 out of 4 are bad.








      I know, I'm boring. lol Not a very exciting MRT. Maybe one day things will be a bit more interesting. Maybe I'll win the lottery.




      Comment


        #48
        Interesting that those two solder joints went cold right after a drive like that. Surely you have a lot more soldering experience than I, but I'd be careful with the fix on the right side as that much extra solder might go cold again.

        Edit: Too slow on my reply I guess, glad to see it worked for you.

        RIP my last two CB7s.
        New rides:
        '82 Volvo 245 drift project
        '87 Volvo 244 daily
        Born2DieApparel.com

        Comment


          #49
          Originally posted by TheFunk View Post
          Interesting that those two solder joints went cold right after a drive like that. Surely you have a lot more soldering experience than I, but I'd be careful with the fix on the right side as that much extra solder might go cold again.

          Edit: Too slow on my reply I guess, glad to see it worked for you.
          The angle in which I took that picture it looks worse than it really is. I thought the same as you but my soldering iron is pretty potent. I weighed giving it some more heat vs leaving it as is after a thorough inspection and as can be seen I left it.

          Experience, maybe. Skill, unlikely. It's something I could use some more practice at, clearly.
          Last edited by H311RA151N; 04-18-2015, 05:47 PM.




          Comment


            #50
            It's all in practice.

            In the world of perfect soldering it is too much solder. It should have a nice fillet for max strength.

            It'll be good for another couple of years in the real world.

            YouTube Clicky!!

            Comment


              #51
              Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
              It's all in practice.

              In the world of perfect soldering it is too much solder. It should have a nice fillet for max strength.

              It'll be good for another couple of years in the real world.
              The old TCU is still around here somewhere. I figured I may just start messing around with it sometime.

              I'm aware of your skill level in this area so you saying it will work for a while is good to hear.

              I also threw another main relay in the glove box just in case.
              Last edited by H311RA151N; 04-18-2015, 07:01 PM.




              Comment


                #52
                Isumo throttle position sensor came in the other day for the H23A1 plenum and throttle body.






                Comment


                  #53
                  wow ... that's a bummer about that window assembly ...




                  My CB9/Wagon Thread Start to Finish:
                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ighlight=wagon

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Originally posted by PakaloloHonda View Post
                    wow ... that's a bummer about that window assembly ...
                    Yeah kinda crappy. Not as crappy as my torque converter not locking up now though. Luckily I have several vehicles to drive.




                    Comment


                      #55
                      Today I'm going back into the valve lash. One rocker adjustment is evidently a little loose as I can hear one a little more than the rest. Going to go back into it and check all of them. It's been sitting over night so it'll be dead cold and a prime time to do it.

                      I was having to add about 20 ounces of coolant every couple weeks but yesterday I found the leak which is on top of the thermostat housing. Simply tightening a worm clamp someone put on will solve that. Nice and easy little fix.

                      As for the transmission... boy am I tired of messing with the transmission on this thing. Anyways, I have access to another set of shift solenoids so I will try those out after I test them and change the transmission fluid. Hopefully one of the two will get the torque converter feeling like locking up once again.

                      With any luck all will go well and I'll have a productive day.




                      Comment


                        #56
                        Hey Josh nice car you noob you have the same soldering gun and distributer as me LOL. Was the TCU you put in rebuilt? Here's why I ask. In my blue 90 before I bought the car the TCU was rebuilt less then a year before I got it and ever since I had the car the transmission would never lock up... I didn't even bother trying to fix it until I bought that other blue 90 I had I swapped TCU's just for the hell of it and my transmission is locking up now! On the 90 I purchased I put my rebuilt TCU in it and the transmission would no longer lock up. The one I took from the car I purchased was OEM Honda untouched with 0 problems on the circuit board. If yours was rebuilt who rebuilt it? My rebuilt was done by Ace hardware according to the sticker. Ever since the swap I've had no problems locking up the MPG's is a bit of a difference too.

                        BTW Josh your gonna need new shift solenoid gaskets on both cars if you try swapping them and OEM ones are expensive. Hopefully you have a productive day and you get that one valve happily satisfied lol.
                        Last edited by Kev1990; 04-25-2015, 11:39 AM.

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by Kev1990 View Post
                          Hey Josh nice car you noob you have the same soldering gun and distributer as me LOL. Was the TCU you put in rebuilt? Here's why I ask. In my blue 90 before I bought the car the TCU was rebuilt less then a year before I got it and ever since I had the car the transmission would never lock up... I didn't even bother trying to fix it until I bought that other blue 90 I had I swapped TCU's just for the hell of it and my transmission is locking up now! On the 90 I purchased I put my rebuilt TCU in it and the transmission would no longer lock up. The one I took from the car I purchased was OEM Honda untouched with 0 problems on the circuit board. If yours was rebuilt who rebuilt it? My rebuilt was done by Ace hardware according to the sticker. Ever since the swap I've had no problems locking up the MPG's is a bit of a difference too.

                          BTW Josh your gonna need new shift solenoid gaskets on both cars if you try swapping them and OEM ones are expensive. Hopefully you have a productive day and you get that one valve happily satisfied lol.
                          Thanks man!

                          I love that soldering gun. It's a bit hot for what I used it for in this thread thus far, a bit bulky too.

                          Was the TCU that you had in while the torque converter wasn't locking up visibly bad? As in burnt components and such? I may pull the TCU back out and check it. It's not rebuilt it's a good factory TCU but at this point it's still worth checking in to.
                          Last edited by H311RA151N; 04-25-2015, 02:16 PM.




                          Comment


                            #58
                            Checked the valve lash again.

                            A few I tweaked a bit but nothing way out of spec. I was expecting to find one quite a bit off. Whatever it was is quieter now. I guess a little bit too much clearance can make a lot of noise.







                            Comment


                              #59
                              Actually no nothing visibly wrong with the circuit board my Aunt and I who has electrical repair experience couldnt find anything wrong with it even with a magnifying glass. I don't have much experience in this topic but maybe when it was rebuilt or when they get rebuilt in some cases the wrong values are used? I mean if you got a code for shift solenoids I'd definitely look into that first though. You know what's messed up too Ace hardware really took the previous owners on the price of repair I have the receipt somewhere I could of gotten a couple of TCU's LOL.

                              Comment


                                #60
                                I think the valves will make noise no matter what. I've adjusted my valves [cold and correctly might I add at 10 and 12] and the shit still ticks. I've done this probably 8 times since I've owned the car thinking I fucked it up, but its always at spec. Lucas oil makes this worse if you didn't know. I'm guessing because oil cant get in between due to that shit being thick as all hell.
                                And why are you even fucking with the transmission if it's gonna be swapped? <-- This smile is so Asian!

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