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need some expert advice on my swap! H22A1, USDM P13, bogs and bucks

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    #61
    What injectors are you running again? (I skimmed through the thread but I didn’t see it... I thought I remembered seeing it.)






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      #62
      I basically just wanted to reseal it, and check all the bearings. while I was in there I took the rings out and cleaned them cause they were trashed, I didn't want to buy new ones so I just put them back in , and I did my best to clock them according to the assembly procedure. I don't think there is a direct break in the rings, but I suppose they could have rotated somehow . . .
      I have spark in all four and compression is ~185 in all four, but I can check again next time I'm up there.

      deevergote: What injectors are you running again?
      Remanufactured "OEM" ones from rockauto, they should be 345cc's being that they are stock. They appear to be the resistor type both the CB and lude use, I ordered them for a prelude so they should be the 345cc ones. All the seals are new and there are no fuel leaks , and not seeing coolant in the oil just gas. a lot of gas . . .

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        #63
        some guy had the same symptoms as me , I was reading some other forum . . . the thread basically ended with he had his IACV coolant lines backwards and re-routed them and everything was all mint after but I seriously doubt that would cause these problems, and I don't think my coolant lines are backwards although I did delete the FITV under the TB

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          #64
          Someone suggested the 26 year old main relay might need to be resoldered. Are they known for that? Are there a bunch of old Hondas out there with resoldered PGM-FI main relays?

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            #65
            Originally posted by RabbittCB7 View Post
            I basically just wanted to reseal it, and check all the bearings. while I was in there I took the rings out and cleaned them cause they were trashed, I didn't want to buy new ones so I just put them back in , and I did my best to clock them according to the assembly procedure. I don't think there is a direct break in the rings, but I suppose they could have rotated somehow . . .
            I have spark in all four and compression is ~185 in all four, but I can check again next time I'm up there.



            Remanufactured "OEM" ones from rockauto, they should be 345cc's being that they are stock. They appear to be the resistor type both the CB and lude use, I ordered them for a prelude so they should be the 345cc ones. All the seals are new and there are no fuel leaks , and not seeing coolant in the oil just gas. a lot of gas . . .
            A lot of gas in the oil = injectors sticking open. Disconnect the positive cable.

            Disconnect the ECM. Then ohm each injector negative to ground. It should be OL. If it isn’t, you have shorts to ground on the injector control side. This will cause the injectors to over fuel.

            Another failure it can have is the ground wires for the injector harness rubbing each other, opening more injectors than just 1. Ohm check between different injectors negative side. They should be OL.

            If you really aren’t sure if it’s beginning to flood out. Run the car, then unplug different injectors 1 at a time. If you notice no change, then after a few seconds it runs better, then that injector was over-fueling. If the car immediately runs worse. That injector is probably ok. If you notice no change at all, and it never changes even after a while, then that injector is probably not fueling at all.

            You can also try a different test. The carb spray test. Disconnect all injectors, start car on carb spray, and spray periodically to see if the engine runs relatively smoothly. If it runs smooth on spray, then you have a fueling issue. If it runs rough and jerky even on spray, then you have a timing, ecu, etc issue.
            Last edited by Bailey_CatDaddy; 07-31-2019, 01:08 PM.

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              #66
              Originally posted by bailey_catdaddy View Post
              a Lot Of Gas In The Oil = Injectors Sticking Open. Disconnect The Positive Cable.

              Disconnect The Ecm. Then Ohm Each Injector Negative To Ground. It Should Be Ol. If It Isn’t, You Have Shorts To Ground On The Injector Control Side. This Will Cause The Injectors To Over Fuel.

              Another Failure It Can Have Is The Ground Wires For The Injector Harness Rubbing Each Other, Opening More Injectors Than Just 1. Ohm Check Between Different Injectors Negative Side. They Should Be Ol.

              If You Really Aren’t Sure If It’s Beginning To Flood Out. Run The Car, Then Unplug Different Injectors 1 At A Time. If You Notice No Change, Then After A Few Seconds It Runs Better, Then That Injector Was Over-fueling. If The Car Immediately Runs Worse. That Injector Is Probably Ok. If You Notice No Change At All, And It Never Changes Even After A While, Then That Injector Is Probably Not Fueling At All.

              You Can Also Try A Different Test. The Carb Spray Test. Disconnect All Injectors, Start Car On Carb Spray, And Spray Periodically To See If The Engine Runs Relatively Smoothly. If It Runs Smooth On Spray, Then You Have A Fueling Issue. If It Runs Rough And Jerky Even On Spray, Then You Have A Timing, Ecu, Etc Issue.
              Right on I will give that a try ! That kinda made me wonder, so I'll go through the injectors. I remember disconnecting them one at a time before and there would be no change for a couple seconds, and it would eventually start to buck harder until the injector gets plugged back in, relatively the same on most of them if not all of them . . . I was kinda wondering about that. if the injector was fine and I unplugged it, it would immediately run much worse right ? as opposed to taking a few seconds to make a noticeable difference?

              I'm still wondering about the main relay, is that a common gremlin? it obviously works cause I can hear the pump, but maybe its weak?

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                #67
                I'm gonna head out there if I can . . .

                Gonna check the main relay for cracked solder joints,

                gonna ohm out the injectors again.


                down to the nitty gritties. Everything else has been checked multiple times so I'm thinking its one of the two above issues.

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                  #68
                  Update: Defeat

                  I think the car has me beat fellas. I have done everything to my mechanical ability to make the bloody thing just run normally with an H22 . . .
                  Last edited by RabbittCB7; 08-02-2019, 11:04 AM.

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                    #69

                    https://imgur.com/a/hYvV9sZ

                    photo of the old CB, back when it ran on a boosted F22 and ate supercars for breakfast.

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