The pull a part here in SC sells engines for 135 a pop and 45 for the tranny. I cant wait till I find an H22 or something out there!
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Cheapest H22 Swap Ever!!!
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sorry for bringing back an old thread, but i found more pics that should be added. also, check out how i did the p/s line. (prelude pump and accord line)
on the stand
skunk2 IM
welded mount for auto to manual conversion (just cut and moved the auto mount)
mount 2
i don't know why i always get the engines wedged and stuck in this exact position...
she's in
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Originally posted by wed3k View Postyea, the tilt of the engine is wrong but its in and thats what matters. good looking!
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Originally posted by demortey@mac.co View Postwhy do you say that? or are you talking about the pic where it's jammed halfway in?
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ur tilt is wrong cuz u used the mani stud for the chain. U shud have used the hole in the driver side mount for the proper tilt, then set teh chain 3/4 to the driver side. But u got it in and i think my motor was Way cheaper
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&highlight=h22
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are you putting it in or just lowering it in to see what its like?....you should clean up the engine bay and hit it up with some fresh paint...might aswell..then when its in there it will look freshhttp://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=167601 Click to see my new ride
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Meh, I still got you beat. I spend under 1200 for my motor swap. And I have more power
Good job on the swap tho man. Be sure to get it tuned. That manifold sucks for NA, btw unless you have some mods to back it up with. It won't start picking up until after 6.5k.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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Originally posted by d112crzy View PostMeh, I still got you beat. I spend under 1200 for my motor swap. And I have more power
Originally posted by d112crzy View PostGood job on the swap tho man. Be sure to get it tuned. That manifold sucks for NA, btw unless you have some mods to back it up with. It won't start picking up until after 6.5k.
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IMO, if you're not going to do much besides a decent i/h/e setup, I'd get rid of that manifold. Unless you get something some high lift cams that'll put you above 220whp, that manifold will be really useless to you, IMO.
Either way, a tune would do you good. But if you want a little bit more bottom end, definitely either look into getting a Euro R or a stocker.
CrzyTuning now offering port services
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Originally posted by d112crzy View PostIMO, if you're not going to do much besides a decent i/h/e setup, I'd get rid of that manifold. Unless you get something some high lift cams that'll put you above 220whp, that manifold will be really useless to you, IMO.
Either way, a tune would do you good. But if you want a little bit more bottom end, definitely either look into getting a Euro R or a stocker.
coolant temp sensor might be why it won't run when the engine is cold
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