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Cheapest H22 Swap Ever!!!

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    #46
    The pull a part here in SC sells engines for 135 a pop and 45 for the tranny. I cant wait till I find an H22 or something out there!

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      #47
      sorry for bringing back an old thread, but i found more pics that should be added. also, check out how i did the p/s line. (prelude pump and accord line)

      on the stand


      skunk2 IM


      welded mount for auto to manual conversion (just cut and moved the auto mount)


      mount 2


      i don't know why i always get the engines wedged and stuck in this exact position...


      she's in
      My Rides:

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        #48
        Here's what i did with the power steering lines...

        cut the end off the prelude line and the accord line so they mate up


        then i just used a 12mm compression fitting


        final product


        closeup
        My Rides:

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          #49
          yea, the tilt of the engine is wrong but its in and thats what matters. good looking!
          I <3 G60.

          0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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            #50
            Originally posted by wed3k View Post
            yea, the tilt of the engine is wrong but its in and thats what matters. good looking!
            why do you say that? or are you talking about the pic where it's jammed halfway in?
            My Rides:

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              #51
              Originally posted by demortey@mac.co View Post
              why do you say that? or are you talking about the pic where it's jammed halfway in?
              yea, my last engine swap went in real smoothly but i also had the crank pully off.
              I <3 G60.

              0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                #52
                ur tilt is wrong cuz u used the mani stud for the chain. U shud have used the hole in the driver side mount for the proper tilt, then set teh chain 3/4 to the driver side. But u got it in and i think my motor was Way cheaper
                http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...&highlight=h22
                Summer 11' Big plans (Bodywork/paint/rims etc..) in Progress STAY TUNED

                CLICK THE PIC

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                  #53
                  are you putting it in or just lowering it in to see what its like?....you should clean up the engine bay and hit it up with some fresh paint...might aswell..then when its in there it will look fresh
                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=167601 Click to see my new ride

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                    #54
                    Meh, I still got you beat. I spend under 1200 for my motor swap. And I have more power

                    Good job on the swap tho man. Be sure to get it tuned. That manifold sucks for NA, btw unless you have some mods to back it up with. It won't start picking up until after 6.5k.

                    CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                      #55
                      Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                      Meh, I still got you beat. I spend under 1200 for my motor swap. And I have more power
                      but i spent $1200 canadian= ~$1000 USD at the time.

                      Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                      Good job on the swap tho man. Be sure to get it tuned. That manifold sucks for NA, btw unless you have some mods to back it up with. It won't start picking up until after 6.5k.
                      i did notice that it doesn't really have power till 6k. would the stock mani be better (with and without a tune)? what kind of mods should i have to back up that mani? i plan to stick NA
                      My Rides:

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                        #56
                        IMO, if you're not going to do much besides a decent i/h/e setup, I'd get rid of that manifold. Unless you get something some high lift cams that'll put you above 220whp, that manifold will be really useless to you, IMO.

                        Either way, a tune would do you good. But if you want a little bit more bottom end, definitely either look into getting a Euro R or a stocker.

                        CrzyTuning now offering port services

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                          IMO, if you're not going to do much besides a decent i/h/e setup, I'd get rid of that manifold. Unless you get something some high lift cams that'll put you above 220whp, that manifold will be really useless to you, IMO.

                          Either way, a tune would do you good. But if you want a little bit more bottom end, definitely either look into getting a Euro R or a stocker.
                          i have the stock manifold. i'm gonna throw it on today if i get some time at the shop, see how much it helps. i also just threw code 6 (coolant temp sensor) and 23 (knock sensor...again...)

                          coolant temp sensor might be why it won't run when the engine is cold
                          My Rides:

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                            #58
                            not a bad deal at all. Although you might consider mine cheaper. I paid $1700 for it, but it came with a car around it.

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