*new* engine running like a bag

[demortey@mac.co]

ok... heres the deal... just last week i ran a can of seafoam through the vacuum line, it stalled out the engine and sucked more in... went to start it and disasters happened.

the motor from my parts car went in, fired up fine and everything, moves the car... all should be good

if the accelerator is pressed between ~1% and ~20% of the way down the car is very choppy and it is hard to keep it running. if i floor it though, it peels away fine. It almost seems like its running too rich.

just some notes...
- my car is a 92 LX auto (sedan)
- parts car is a 90 LX auto (coupe)
- the coolant gauge isn't working, reads zero.
- the connector on the left side of the engine (a 5-pin on the 92 and a 7 pin on the 90). All i did was make some jumper wires with terminals on the ends to jumper the same colour wires together. there are 2 more wires on the motor that i have no idea what they are for.
- it doesn't seem like its running too hot, but I'm pretty sure the coolant temp sensor plays a major role in the fuel/air mixture, if its readings are not present, the computer will sub in its own values to keep you running.
- i also did an A/C delete (i just cut the lines and removed the compressor, is there anything else i should have done)

thanks in advance... you guys are great

[bmxfelon420]

you might want to make sure that your o2 sensor is working good, also double check the coolant lines and make sure they arent backwards or something, and make sure your coolant is bled. Its supposed to just affect idle, but couldnt hurt. If that fails, make sure the egr is clean, and the iacv as well.

I'll look up the pin diagram for that plug in a little bit, the manual isnt indexed so i have to guess to find the right page.

[demortey@mac.co]

i just flashed out codes and this is what we have:

3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
15 Ignition output signal

3 and 5 are probably just a swap of MAPs, but 15 has me boggled.
the motor i put in my car (1990) has the internal coil and the one that was in my car (1992) has an external coil. Would this play any role in the situation?

thanks in advance guys

[ChIoVnIdCa]

i put in my car (1990) has the internal coil and the one that was in my car (1992) has an external coil. Would this play any role in the situation?

thanks in advance guys

did you jump the pins?

[wed3k]

you do realize that you arent suppose to run the entire can through the vacuum line...just 1/3

[Losiracer2]

you do realize that you arent suppose to run the entire can through the vacuum line...just 1/3

^x2 yeah 1/3 in gas tank, 1/3 in vacuum line, 1/3 in oil crankcase

[demortey@mac.co]

thats all i did run through. i put 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the oil and the last 1/3 that was left i sucked through a vacuum line. I have my idle turned right down so it stalled out easy. you're really supposed to have the throttle about 1/4 - 1/2 open when you do it too. i'll learn for next time though. i tore the motor down today and found out that i really didn't have to change it... it was just the starter that needed to be swapped and its gear and pieces of its housing removed from the bellhousing.

it's all good... now i have a good motor to start working on

i figured out the problems too. i didn't have the proper gasket when putting the TB back on, so i made one with RTV and it got into the MAP sensor cavity. Made a new gasket for it out of material and its all good now.

[demortey@mac.co]

i still don't understand why the ignition return signal (code15) would have been thrown. It doesn't seem like that would be related to MAP issues (code 3 and 5).