Fuel gauge issue & fuel level float

[crazymikey]

I was finally able to find a replacement NS cluster to replace my inoperative temp gauge, and fix my fuel gauge which was not reading properly.

Now that my gauges are repaired and working, the fuel gauge is still giving me the same issue as before.

This now leads me to beleive my fuel level float is stuck in the tank.

What's the easiest way to go about repairing this? I have access to a new (used, but properly working) fuel tank and sending unit, which I can just drop my tank/SU and slam the new one in. Or, remove/repair/replace my current sending unit.

I've been driving with no fuel gauge now for about 4 months. My tank reads constantly full, even when empty. The low fuel light works though, and I use my trip meter as my fuel gauge.

[Losiracer2]

You have to drop the tank. Its the only way to do it properly. There is no access panel from the top, unfortunately Honda didn't add one for our cars.

Also, when you're in there. REPLACE the gaskets, otherwise you won't pass emissions and you'll smell fumes once you retighten everything. They're about 15 bucks for Honda OEM ones.

Its really not that difficult, but remember each gallon of gas adds 8 lbs to the weight of the tank. Tank weighs about 25-30 lbs empty and is bulky so use as much gas as you can or drain it out into water jugs temporarily.

There are two straps that hold the tank in and you'll have to disconnect a couple lines on the driverside rear fender area that might give you the most issue since they've been on the lines for 2 decades.

EDIT: I was thinking you needed to do the fuel pump for some reason as well. For just the Sending Unit there is an access panel. I think its held on with a couple 10mm bolts. So all you'd need to do is remove the rear seat bottom to get access to that ground and possibly the seat back and carpeting

[SOHC-FTW]

There is an access panel (Atleast on mine and a few other accords). It's on the passenger side right below the rear shock top hat/tower behind the back seat padding.

3 screws, a ground, the sending unit plug, and the gas tank pressure ring then you can pull the assembly out. If yours has the access panel ofcourse this way is much simpler.

[crazymikey]

Basically, sounds easier to just swap the entire tank and SU together? Drop the old one, discard it, and put the one straight from the other car in?

[evil_demon_01]

Both of mine had the access panel too.
10 minute job to get the sender out, That's the easiest way, then just check the sender resistance as you move it and make sure the min and max are in spec.

Though - the fact that you say the fuel light still works leads me to believe the sender is fine and the issue is the cluster/wiring (Assuming that you mean the light comes on when your getting low, Not just that it works)

[Sordz]

Don't drop the tank, try doing it from the access panel. Less chance of problems with fuel lines/rusted parts breaking etc. either way you have to get in there and unplug it before lowering tank I'm pretty sure.

[crazymikey]

Originally when I started to have problems with the gauge, I would fill up the car and the tank would read full. Then, as I used fuel, the gauge would drop, but it would stick at a half tank. From there, I continued driving, over 550-600+km, until the fuel light came on, though the needle was reading half.

I did the resistance test with the jumper lead, and the needle would move from full to empty, but once I plugged it back in it would stick at half tank.

I took the gauge right out of the cluster and drove with no needle at all for about 3 months. I put in a new one yesterday, and the needle now reads past full, even though when I installed it, I had less than a quarter tank.

I can tell the gauges work, so it's definetly the sender. Mine has the access panel too, so I can get to it. Obviously that's where I had to get access to do the resistance test on the plug.

[Losiracer2]

There is an access panel (Atleast on mine and a few other accords). It's on the passenger side right below the rear shock top hat/tower behind the back seat padding.

3 screws, a ground, the sending unit plug, and the gas tank pressure ring then you can pull the assembly out. If yours has the access panel ofcourse this way is much simpler.

oh yeah, I keep mixing up the Sending Unit and the Fuel pump locations up.

Thanks for the correction. But I did get the gasket right. There's one on the pump and the Sending Unit

[crazymikey]

Alright, so I got a new (used) sending unit lastnight from a buddy. Free is always good lol. Do I absolutely have to replace the lock ring gasket?

After changing out my gauge cluster, and finding that my temp needle works now, my fuel gauge still reads past full, even though I know I only have about a quarter tank, so it definetly has to be the sending unit causing the problem.

[oyajicool]

It is always good to change gaskets but you may get lucky.

I did fuel tank R/R a few times on a '90 Civic which has similar set-up as our Accords without changing gaskets successfully, no leak. Gaskets were still pliable and I used some gasket lube for re-installation to avoid stressing it.

[Bad_dude]

Keep us up to date on your repair. My gauge is not accurate but it still works. It would drop really slow before the half tank then drop faster after the half tank. I would be at a red light and it goes from 3/4 tank full to below the half mark. Then when I move it would go back to 3/4 tank full. It was scary as I thought I had a big hole in the tank. I wonder if it's a defective SU or some thing else.
Thanks.