Hey guys
Having just gone through a h swap, I thought I would throw some useful information up here.
Now, f22a and h22a distributor housings are not the same. Use whatever housing came with your car.
The replacement internal seal has two dots, if you like through from behind the housing you'll be able to easily get it out, using a precision screwdriver or paperclip
F22 and h22 shafts are NOT compatible.
This is NOT due to the length of the shaft, but actually the angle the lower pin hole is drilled at. If you use a f22 shaft on your h22 your timing will be off up to 70° and it won't start (something I just went through).
Here's a photo, the one with half the cap still on the shaft is h22.
As you can see your angle will be totally off!
(Protips, if your cap gets stuck on like me, use a bearing puller to remove that sob)
Now a handy piece of information to make sure you put the rear part on correctly.
To align the shaft, point the rotor at the #1 spark plug position on the dizzy cap. You can see this by looking at the cap, and whichever ignition point has a circle with a letter in it closest to it is the #1 point.
Point the rotor towards this point. (Bonus plug wire firing order)
Now flip the housing around until you can see the large lines on the rear of the housing. Now when you put the rear gear on, the lines will all match! If they don't, either they will be 180 out or you're using the wrong shaft for your application (how I figured out I was doing it wrong.).
Here's a workshop diagram.
Now when you rebuild your distributor, it's important to align the sensors with the shaft, otherwise you'll get possible false readings or excessive shaft noise, and YES the sensors can be tightened too closely!
I will install the lower two, then the shaft, then check clearances with a torch, and readjsut until I get as close as possible without it touching (the shaft will feel notchy due to magnetic pull. This is NORMAL).
Now, f/h electronics are interchangeable. I like to keep whatever electronics my harness is setup for, so my f22 harness is an internal coil, so I swapped my internal coil parts into a h22 housing with h22 shaft and it works excellently.
If you are rebuilding the distributor, it's very often that the screws will strip as you're trying to remove it.
To avoid this step, put your housing into a vice before remove and use a large Phillips head screwdriver and put weight on the screw! Hey presto, no stripped screws.
When you're removing the distributor, it's important to pull out one of the crimped terminals from the top, to allow the shaft to come out.
This terminal is the one with the wire going back through the hole and is easily identified.
Make sure to check sensor clearances on the top sensor as well when rebuilt!
If I can think of anything else I'll add it here but hopefully this helps clear up a few things I struggled with.
Having just gone through a h swap, I thought I would throw some useful information up here.
Now, f22a and h22a distributor housings are not the same. Use whatever housing came with your car.
The replacement internal seal has two dots, if you like through from behind the housing you'll be able to easily get it out, using a precision screwdriver or paperclip
F22 and h22 shafts are NOT compatible.
This is NOT due to the length of the shaft, but actually the angle the lower pin hole is drilled at. If you use a f22 shaft on your h22 your timing will be off up to 70° and it won't start (something I just went through).
Here's a photo, the one with half the cap still on the shaft is h22.
As you can see your angle will be totally off!
(Protips, if your cap gets stuck on like me, use a bearing puller to remove that sob)
Now a handy piece of information to make sure you put the rear part on correctly.
To align the shaft, point the rotor at the #1 spark plug position on the dizzy cap. You can see this by looking at the cap, and whichever ignition point has a circle with a letter in it closest to it is the #1 point.
Point the rotor towards this point. (Bonus plug wire firing order)
Now flip the housing around until you can see the large lines on the rear of the housing. Now when you put the rear gear on, the lines will all match! If they don't, either they will be 180 out or you're using the wrong shaft for your application (how I figured out I was doing it wrong.).
Here's a workshop diagram.
Now when you rebuild your distributor, it's important to align the sensors with the shaft, otherwise you'll get possible false readings or excessive shaft noise, and YES the sensors can be tightened too closely!
I will install the lower two, then the shaft, then check clearances with a torch, and readjsut until I get as close as possible without it touching (the shaft will feel notchy due to magnetic pull. This is NORMAL).
Now, f/h electronics are interchangeable. I like to keep whatever electronics my harness is setup for, so my f22 harness is an internal coil, so I swapped my internal coil parts into a h22 housing with h22 shaft and it works excellently.
If you are rebuilding the distributor, it's very often that the screws will strip as you're trying to remove it.
To avoid this step, put your housing into a vice before remove and use a large Phillips head screwdriver and put weight on the screw! Hey presto, no stripped screws.
When you're removing the distributor, it's important to pull out one of the crimped terminals from the top, to allow the shaft to come out.
This terminal is the one with the wire going back through the hole and is easily identified.
Make sure to check sensor clearances on the top sensor as well when rebuilt!
If I can think of anything else I'll add it here but hopefully this helps clear up a few things I struggled with.
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