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Old 01-13-2015, 02:59 AM   #61
aventari
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As it sits in my garage:




Just a couple highlights from the weekend..
I took it for a test drive around the block and there was a bad wobble in the front, I'm suspecting bad CV joints + bad wheel bearing. So I tried to remove the CV. To do that you need to remove the axle nut here:


This bitch was so tight it broke my 1/2" drive extension.

Okay let's bring out the big guns.
Big Ass 3/4" drive ratchet and fat 36mm socket, with a 4 foot cheater pipe.



My 170lb ass had to jump up and down on the cheater bar and it finally broke the nut, but it bent the 3/4" ratchet in the process. Unbelievable.

I pulled the CV's and the inner joints are pretty loose. I'm getting 2 new EMPI shafts for $60 each shipped from RockAuto.


Balance shafts..
When I did the timing belt 4 years ago I just left the balance shaft belt off completely.
So now I'm replacing the timing belt again and I noticed the balance shaft pulley is still on the crank and it's pretty beefy--but it's not actually turning anything anymore.



Why not just get rid of it? Well the pulley still needs to fit on the end of the crankshaft so the sepentine belt pulleys can line up, so a spacer might work.

I don't really have the ability to machine a nice aluminium spacer, but I can lighten this pulley but cutting off the gear and turn it into a makeshift spacer


There we go, I just took out my sawzall and cut the little spokes and removed the gear part. Then I ground the nubs that were left nice and flat. It's about 1/2 the weight and the weight removed is at the outer edge of the rotating mass so that will give me at least 15 more horsepower
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:07 AM   #62
aventari
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Here's my TODO list for the next 2 weekends.. The track day is 3 weeks away!
  • fill trans with Redline MT90
  • install timing belt
  • new fuel filter
  • install spark plugs 2 heat ranges colder NGK
  • final flush coolant
  • bleed brakes one more time, LF caliper was leaking--check RF caliper
  • alignment FRONT 0 toe 2.0-2.5 camber max even caster REAR 0 toe 2.0 camber?
  • install new CVs
  • Press new front wheel bearings on hubs and install
  • install front and left motormounts once urethane hardens
  • fill rear and right motormounts with urethane
  • install intake
  • get pad for seat
  • pull fender
  • battery hold down
  • remove hood lights
  • adjust valves http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2477017
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:16 AM   #63
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Over the past few years I stumbled upon this thread a couple times. I'm really glad you came back to update! Seriously cool thread!
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Holy fuck, it's the weekend man.
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Old 01-13-2015, 03:31 AM   #64
aventari
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Thanks I really like this forum. Over the past month I've been putting a lot of work and research into this car and every time I google a question about CB7's, this forum comes up and it's always good info.

There's a ton of people here that know their shizz

With help for you guys I'm hoping to get ~150-160 crank hp RELIABLY, get the suspension dialed in, and be a real competitive team this year
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Old 01-13-2015, 10:17 PM   #65
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Awesome stuff in here! I love following the LeMons coverage and have had friends that do it, they absolutely love it. I'd love to get into it, especially in an Accord. I forget the name of the team that runs a 5th gen Accord Coupe, something Danger, but one of them sometimes posts on the Grassroots Motorsports forum. Anyway, good to see an Accord in the series!

For a trick to gain camber, 88-91 Civic upper front control arms can be used.
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Old 01-14-2015, 01:51 AM   #66
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Do I want to gain camber? What's a good alignment setting to start with for the track?
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:05 PM   #67
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I know I'm about -2 deg up front, and maybe -1.5 in the rear. I autocross, but I roll on my sidewalls HARD on the front(225/50/16 BFG G-force Sport Comp-2's on a 16x7). I'd say -3 degrees or so. I've heard of a lot of road racers liking a very, very, very slight toe in for a bit more stability at speed. Caster but a bit more should help the camber situation out as the suspension compresses. In the rear, I'm pretty content with where the camber and toe is, but then again, I'm just guessing what I'm at based off of previous experiences in the alignment area. My car's never been on a rack, so it's hard to say.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:20 PM   #68
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I got these new CVs in and I'm going to install tomorow, but I don't have ABS. Will they still work??



Last edited by aventari; 01-16-2015 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:55 PM   #69
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I'm assuming the ABS ring will not interfere with anything and the rest of the half shaft is identical, just wanted to make sure before I install them and it turns out that i'm wrong
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:02 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by aventari View Post
I got these new CVs in and I'm going to install tomorow, but I don't have ABS. Will they still work??


Yep they sure will. Your in business! All my CV shafts have had ABS's rings and none of my cars have had ABS.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:06 PM   #71
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Great! good news thanks

Tomorrow I'll be installing them, pressing new wheel bearings in the hubs and installing those and then filling the transmission with 2 quarts of Redline MT90.

Then I'm going to install a new timing belt, adjust the valves and install the new NGK plugs (2 heat ranges colder) and go for a test drive

Since I work at GoPro I'm going to get some nice in car video this weekend
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:08 PM   #72
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So tell me, is Lemons tech a bitch? Which race do you enter and in what region? Are you allowed to compete in more than one race in more than one region? If you do do you have to pay the $600 for each race or is that the fee for the whole season?

I know your not an official just seeing what info I can get. Reason being is this looks fun as hell. My car is junk and I'm getting a replacement Accord here soon. The car in my sig is not worth fixing but would still make a great Lemons car.

Also, do you have any good pics of the "boxes" where the roll cages are welded in? I'm interested in knowing what you did for a proper cage install.
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Old 01-16-2015, 07:09 PM   #73
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Great! good news thanks

Tomorrow I'll be installing them, pressing new wheel bearings in the hubs and installing those and then filling the transmission with 2 quarts of Redline MT90.

Then I'm going to install a new timing belt, adjust the valves and install the new NGK plugs (2 heat ranges colder) and go for a test drive

Since I work at GoPro I'm going to get some nice in car video this weekend
No way. That's awesome! I've been meaning to get one for a while. I do a lot of ATV riding and been wanting one for that purpose.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:10 AM   #74
aventari
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Originally Posted by H311RA151N View Post
So tell me, is Lemons tech a bitch? Which race do you enter and in what region? Are you allowed to compete in more than one race in more than one region? If you do do you have to pay the $600 for each race or is that the fee for the whole season?

I know your not an official just seeing what info I can get. Reason being is this looks fun as hell. My car is junk and I'm getting a replacement Accord here soon. The car in my sig is not worth fixing but would still make a great Lemons car.

Also, do you have any good pics of the "boxes" where the roll cages are welded in? I'm interested in knowing what you did for a proper cage install.

The tech isn't too bad if you read all of the rules and are very careful about following their guidelines. Also when you come up with specific questions, people are really responsive on the Lemons forums so you should be able to iron it out beforehand and not need to fail at the actual race

You should totally do it with your Accord, it's pretty much my favorite thing I do now! First try to hook up with a team and go to a race near you and see what it's all about. Or just go on your own and check it out and talk to people, everyone it _super_ friendly becuase it's not hyper-competitive

You can race in as many races as you want a year in any regions, I usually do about 2 races a year at Buttonwillow and Sonoma Raceway (Sears Point) . I'm in San Diego so I do all the SoCal ones. You have to pay for each race, so $600 each race, then $150 for each driver (minmum 4 drivers)


I'll grab some cage pics now

Last edited by aventari; 01-19-2015 at 01:16 AM.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:19 AM   #75
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I have read through this several times and it doesn't sound too hard to follow the rules. https://www.24hoursoflemons.com/prices-rules

And thanks in advance for the cage pics.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:22 AM   #76
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Here's the spreader plates for the cage, sorry about potato image quality

they box the foot of the cage by going up the sides of the body


click for big



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Old 01-19-2015, 01:28 AM   #77
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Question:

This wire above the alternator has been dangling here since I got the car. I think it's a ground wire, it actually shows 0 ohms to ground on my voltmeter.

Is it a stock ground and where does it normally connect?





I grounded it to the alternator case today and everything seems to be fine
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:51 AM   #78
aventari
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This weekend I did a bunch of work with my friend.

We installed the new front wheels bearings on the hubs, I have a couple tricks to note here..

I bought some cheap GMB $17 wheel bearings. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041MGAO8/...745480_TE_item

When I got them, I checked to see if they would fit throught the brake rotors and they wouldn't. That means after I put the on the hubs it would be a pain in the ass. So before I installed the bearings into the hubs I grinded the outer case on the bench grinder until they passed through the rotors. Doing this BEFORE you press them on the hubs is a lot easier.

Also I put the hubs in the freezer overnight before I "pressed" on the bearings. This shrinks them ever-so-slightly and should make installation easier. Especially since I use a hammer and a socket to install the bearings because I don't have a press


After that we installed the axles, installed the hubs, and put everything back together.
Installed 4 new ZFR5F-11 NGK plugs and adjusted the valve lash.
Installed a new timing belt.
The valves were really close to spec, about half of them needed .01" or .02" adjustment.

I filled the trans with Redline MT90, filled it through the backup sensor (?) on top of the trans. I needed a crows foot 19mm to loosen the backup sensor.

Also did a lot of random clean up, removed unused brackets and wiring, removed the horn, stuff like that.

Since the car was crashed into at the last race I removed the fender and pulled out the body as well as I could. I bent the fender back better and now the hood closes and latches properly. Not sure what to do long-term about it.



Also I bought some 2 part 60D durometer urethane and did the front and drivers motor mounts
Got the idea from here: http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-f...ne-mounts.html



Just make SURE your tape is sealing the bottom of the mount well or it WILL leak out! Ask me how I know
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:58 AM   #79
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Here's the spreader plates for the cage, sorry about potato image quality

they box the foot of the cage by going up the sides of the body


click for big



I was expecting something like this:



I always tend to think things are harder than they really are though.
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Old 01-19-2015, 01:59 AM   #80
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Question:

This wire above the alternator has been dangling here since I got the car. I think it's a ground wire, it actually shows 0 ohms to ground on my voltmeter.

Is it a stock ground and where does it normally connect?





I grounded it to the alternator case today and everything seems to be fine
I have never seen that before. Might be a deal like Mitsuba vs Denso starters.




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