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    #16
    Originally posted by 102030405 View Post
    I have checked spark with a spark tester, I get no spark.

    I also tried starter fluid but that didn't do anything because I have no spark.

    I'll update my original post to add the things I did in my other posts.
    Great! Now we get to dig into the ignition system.

    On your distributor, you should see 12V on the 2-pin connector blk/yel wire.
    On your coil, you should see 12v on the YEL wire and the BLK/YEL wire.
    These are with ignition on.

    On the YEL/GRN wire, you should have a pulse if you use a test light. This wire is the output from the ECU to the Igniter. I'm not sure if the ECU is switching 5v or 12v for this wire, but if your test light is an LED then make sure it works on 5v circuits.

    On the ORG wire, you should have a pulse from the igniter to the coil primary. This should mirror the YEL/GRN wire output.

    YouTube Clicky!!

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      #17
      Originally posted by sonikaccord View Post
      Great! Now we get to dig into the ignition system.

      On your distributor, you should see 12V on the 2-pin connector blk/yel wire.
      On your coil, you should see 12v on the YEL wire and the BLK/YEL wire.
      These are with ignition on.

      On the YEL/GRN wire, you should have a pulse if you use a test light. This wire is the output from the ECU to the Igniter. I'm not sure if the ECU is switching 5v or 12v for this wire, but if your test light is an LED then make sure it works on 5v circuits.

      On the ORG wire, you should have a pulse from the igniter to the coil primary. This should mirror the YEL/GRN wire output.
      On your distributor, you should see 12V on the 2-pin connector blk/yel wire. I get 12v

      On your coil, you should see 12v on the YEL wire and the BLK/YEL wire. I get 12v

      On the YEL/GRN wire, you should have a pulse if you use a test light. This wire is the output from the ECU to the Igniter. I'm not sure if the ECU is switching 5v or 12v for this wire, but if your test light is an LED then make sure it works on 5v circuits. I was unable to get a pulse on my test light. not sure if it's a very good light though, was 10 bucks at lordco

      On the ORG wire, you should have a pulse from the igniter to the coil primary. This should mirror the YEL/GRN wire output. I was unable to get a pulse on my test light.

      I printed off some other documentation on testing distributor parts for the Accord. it mentioned some similar stuff as you mentioned above and pointed out that if I get no Tach signal (no needle movement) it's possible my igniter is dead. but I also imagine this could be related to something else.

      I have a feeling my test light is crap, does anyone have a good recommendation for a good test light I can order? there aren't many options for tools where I live. lordco is junk.


      Originally posted by cp[mike]
      the joys of digging into an old car, its like christmas every time you try to fix something. "woohoo!! more rust and broken parts! sweet!!!"

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        #18
        Well I'm not really getting anywhere with this car. seems all measurements are correct for the things I've tested and voltage is good. only thing that seems off is that I dont get a pulsing light on coil with my test light but it's probably the test light. I decided to buy a used OEM distributor off ebay so hopefully I dont get scammed. was far cheaper than getting one locally since the junk yard here charges nearly OEM full price.

        If that doesnt work guess I'll have to send it off to the scrap yard.


        Originally posted by cp[mike]
        the joys of digging into an old car, its like christmas every time you try to fix something. "woohoo!! more rust and broken parts! sweet!!!"

        Comment


          #19
          Well if you don't get spark from the coil, it's either a bad trigger or a bad coil. Which Sonik said, the igniter is the trigger. Lucky for you, all of this is found in the distributor anyway. Sooo, you might be good after replacing the dizzy. Does princess auto not have something like an A1 Cardone remanned unit? I'd buy a warranty before I bought eBay personally.

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            #20
            I'm not sure about princess auto and the A1 Cardone remanned units. during all the research I have noticed a trend with people switching from OEM and having issues shortly there after. normally I wouldn't buy from ebay but the price was cheap and I wont be out very much $ if it ends up not being the igniter, coil, sensors or whatever else in the distributor that will cause issues.

            I also don't live anywhere near a princess auto and their website is horrible. I do have a Napa but again I heard bad things about non OEM.

            I really appreciate the Help F22Chris, Sonikaccord and others. I'll update when I get the new/used distrubitor.
            Last edited by 102030405; 06-06-2017, 03:11 PM.


            Originally posted by cp[mike]
            the joys of digging into an old car, its like christmas every time you try to fix something. "woohoo!! more rust and broken parts! sweet!!!"

            Comment

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