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Old 09-11-2020, 10:00 AM   #1
5acramento
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wrong when setting idle ?

so when i first got the car the idle was a little low .. get bad surges when coming to stop ...

so i dove in and set that and re adjusted timing
i also sprayed out the IAC before doing this

now my question is this ..

when i set my idle it initially was where the engine was barely running. you could hear it gasping and putting for air .. not sure what rpms were but obviously low like 400 approx... still kinda had slight dips especially when ac was on coming to stop ..
so..

then later i decided that didnt seem right so i went back and re-adjusted the idle this time by the tach to 600 ... then pulled fuse reset etc ...

IMO it runs better via the second way with very minimal drops but now i get random jumps every once in a while from IAC in the mornings..

maybe the IAC doesnt have as much room to adjust beings i adjusted idle up more ???

my idle for cali suppose to be 700 +/- 50 with 15°+/- 2°

manual i have says all motors timing should be set at 800 and 15° +/- 2°


im assuming the tiny difference is due to California emissions ..

i figured that 750 would be the magic number beings thats the only number both +/- touch for each spec

seems to idle fine right in between the 6 and 8 hundred lines on tach ..

1. any recommendations on rpm guages for a more accurate reading ? not breaking the bank


2. did i do ok both ways technically adjusting idle ?

3. is there a secondary way to check timing at different rpms ranges for accuracy ?


4. are IAC's from boneyard a waste of time ?
pik n pull here has them for 32-35.00 ... plus you can get 12 month warranty now ?

that even worth it or just shell out the big dough for a new one ? ( cant find the Delphi only off brand isshhh)

Last edited by 5acramento; 09-11-2020 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 09-11-2020, 10:55 AM   #2
5acramento
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so i see the sticky on idle adjustment seems i did ok with the second way i set it
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Old 09-11-2020, 11:12 AM   #3
Raf99
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Maybe a terminology thing, but "timing" has little to do with idle or bouncing idle, or low idle. I mean, it could, but just rare.

Sounds like you have an air leak and/or setting the idle the 2nd time fixed the problem. I wouldn't worry about the exact RPM it idles at, somewhere around 700-800 is the norm i believe.

You said now your only issue is the idle spikes? (which is normal if a fan turns or etc. )
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Old 09-11-2020, 11:56 AM   #4
5acramento
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i feel im being to paranoid about the timing now ..

i just read a different manual that says unplug IAC and set idle to 770 +/- 50 and plug the ecu pins ..

then shut off take out ecu pins ... reset idle to 600 , plug iac back in and reset ecu by pulling fuse ..


jesus how many ways can you skin this cat ??


and what i meant by the random surges now is the iac acts up and does that lobing thing jumping roms ..

i can pop hood unplug plug back in and restart car and be ok.. not everytime but sometimes



do you pull ecu and backup or just backup ??

Last edited by 5acramento; 09-11-2020 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 09-11-2020, 03:37 PM   #5
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The pulling the ECU fuse is so the unit can re-learn the Air Fuel mix, etc. But this implies you have fixed the issue. If you are still getting a surging idle or any idle fluctuations then you need to address this first. The common issues are IACV, TPS, but mainly air leaks after the MAP sensor. The idle screw is also something to look at but depends on the year of your car. Don't worry about what rpm it idles at now, fix any surging first, then address/adjust idle rpm.
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Old 09-11-2020, 08:13 PM   #6
fleetw00d
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Your comment "seems to idle fine right in between the 6 and 8 hundred lines on tach" indicates you may misunderstand the bottom end of the tach. There is a thick mark at zero, the next large mark up is 500, then the four thinner lines are 600, 700, 800, and 900. So your comment implies it was actually idling at about 850 rpm - on the high side. If I misunderstand about you misunderstanding, I apologize.

How much does the rpm change and at what frequency when it is "lobing"
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Last edited by fleetw00d; 09-11-2020 at 08:20 PM.
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Old 09-11-2020, 09:51 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Your comment "seems to idle fine right in between the 6 and 8 hundred lines on tach" indicates you may misunderstand the bottom end of the tach. There is a thick mark at zero, the next large mark up is 500, then the four thinner lines are 600, 700, 800, and 900. So your comment implies it was actually idling at about 850 rpm - on the high side. If I misunderstand about you misunderstanding, I apologize.

How much does the rpm change and at what frequency when it is "lobing"

you are absolutely correct !! i read it wrong .. I didnt even notice the other line at bottom and was reading all the lines as 200 each !!

Awesome stuff !! Thanks for pointing that out ...

ill reset everything tomorrow again (like 5th time ) .. but its cool i enjoy the learning process ..


Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
The pulling the ECU fuse is so the unit can re-learn the Air Fuel mix, etc.....
Also what i meant by the ecu reset is .. I hear alot of pull the backup ecu fuse

mine are listed only as radio (backup) and a separate one for ecu ...

1. should i be pulling both fuses or just the Radio(backup) ?

Edit:
2. how do i know if my car is a KS or a KW or neither ? (mine is a KA identified by a Vin Decoder)
End Edit:

3. When ECU is "relearning" how long does it take for it is done learning ...and when its learning do you just baby it ?? do you floor it ? both ? whats best procedure for ecu relearning ?

Last edited by 5acramento; 09-11-2020 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 09-12-2020, 10:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5acramento View Post
..................

Also what i meant by the ecu reset is .. I hear alot of pull the backup ecu fuse

mine are listed only as radio (backup) and a separate one for ecu ...

1. should i be pulling both fuses or just the Radio(backup) ?

Edit:
2. how do i know if my car is a KS or a KW or neither ? (mine is a KA identified by a Vin Decoder)
End Edit:

3. When ECU is "relearning" how long does it take for it is done learning ...and when its learning do you just baby it ?? do you floor it ? both ? whats best procedure for ecu relearning ?
Fleetwood was correct with 850rpm.

Ya, what i said prior. Don't worry about pulling fuses right now. The car will eventually learn on it's own. Pulling fuses is a way to make the ECU learn quicker. IE; your a shop and you need the car leaving that day running fine vs. telling the customer it will idle out / fix itself over time.

For now, just focus on getting the idle proper. Take a vid for us if possible.
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Old 09-12-2020, 12:54 PM   #9
5acramento
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so I completely started fresh this morning and have had great success ..

these are the steps i followed to ensure best accuracy ..

1. warmed up car to operating temps (one fan cycle at least)
2. disconnected IAC
3. raised RPM to approx 770
4. plugged connector under panel to adjust timing
5. adjusted timing to 15
6. pulled wire under panel
7. Re-adjusted RPM to 620 RPM aprrox
8. tuned car off
9. plugged back in IAC
10. Pulled Back-up Fuse (only one needed to be pulled)
11. restarted car and runs great !!


Thanks for your help !!

two main issues I caused myself were

1. Incorrect reading RPM gauge
2. Wrong year in manual was used to adjust idle (only slight difference but still )

Last edited by 5acramento; 09-12-2020 at 01:05 PM.
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