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Old 04-16-2017, 07:12 PM   #1
Wells596
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Final drive ratio change?

Sorry if it's not allowed in this area but I've looked for a bit and couldn't really find anything on the subject. Anyway, is there a final gear that I can snag out of another tranny? I'm tired of being at 3 grand going down the highway. I'm replacing my clutch and needing to replace some synchros so I figured since I'm in there I might as well change the gearing if it's possible. Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:20 PM   #2
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What tranny do you have now? What speed corresponds to that 3000 rpm?
(mine turns almost 4000 at 80 mph with Prelude transmission). Final drive is a little different depending on specific model. I assume you're looking for something geared taller?
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:30 PM   #3
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I believe this is the right code on it. H2A547003225 I'm running 3 grand at about 75. My highway gas mileage is horrible.
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:31 PM   #4
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And it's a 92 lx sedan
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:39 PM   #5
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What kind of mileage? When I had the stock transmission in a couple LX sedans with manuals, I would get about 30-32 mpg at that speed. If your mileage is significantly worse than that, I would concentrate on typical "tune up" things first: air filter, plugs, distributor cap/rotor, timing, tire pressure (even alignment). You have good compression on all cylinders?

I haven't researched much, but I don't think you're going to find a stock final drive much taller.

Lots of info here: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203209

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Old 04-16-2017, 07:46 PM   #6
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awesome compression last time I checked. Which was last fall when I did water pump and timing belt. Also put new plugs and wires on it then along with a new air filter. I'm getting around 25 highway which sucks because I drive down to Willard Ohio a bit from the middle of MI so kinda bites. But tires are aired up to where they should be and alignment is good too so that's kinda why I'm at where I am. I know it should be getting better mileage then what it is. my EF sedan that I swapped a d15b into was getting almost 40mpg the car it's self has only got 166k on it.
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Old 04-16-2017, 08:29 PM   #7
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Quote:
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awesome compression last time I checked. Which was last fall when I did water pump and timing belt. Also put new plugs and wires on it then along with a new air filter. I'm getting around 25 highway which sucks because I drive down to Willard Ohio a bit from the middle of MI so kinda bites. But tires are aired up to where they should be and alignment is good too so that's kinda why I'm at where I am. I know it should be getting better mileage then what it is. my EF sedan that I swapped a d15b into was getting almost 40mpg the car it's self has only got 166k on it.
How old is the O2 sensor? They don't always throw a code when they aren't performing very well. If you decide to replace it don't use Bosch, they don't work well in the CB; use a Denso or NTK.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:38 AM   #8
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o2 sensor is probably the factory one so I'll go ahead and change that out. Yea I don't think I've ever had a vehicle that's liked a Bosch o2.
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:20 AM   #9
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Assuming all is fine with the engine, I feel your pain. And the answer is to swap a F22/F23 5th gear set into the tranny. Syncrotech sells the set but you need to determine which transmission you have and which gear set to transfer (F22 or F23, etc.). I had my own 5th gear set made and also ordered the syncrotech 5th gear set. I used this thread to help me.
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:37 AM   #10
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The final drive gear ratio on all Accords is 4.062, so swapping from another Accord isn't going to help. The Prelude ratio is 4.266, so that's going the opposite direction.

I would look at the engine as the first culprit, since it probably isn't running right if you're getting less than 25MPG highway. Changing your final drive gear ratio will only help minimally (if you can even find a taller gear). Also, you'll find yourself shifting more often to get back into your power band for passing and going up hills.
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Old 04-17-2017, 10:26 AM   #11
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I was able to get over 30mpg highway from my H22A with JDM H22A transmission. That was after having my ECU tuned, however. The F22A ECUs are better tuned for fuel economy, so there's little need to tune those. If the engine is healthy and there's nothing else making it work harder than it should, you should be getting 30+ on the highway.

Addressing your o2 sensor is a good first step. fleetw00d pointed you in the right direction there, so I won't repeat it. Raf99's info regarding a custom 5th gear is probably the best way you're going to be able to address your actual gearing.

Engine condition is a big one. You say your compression is good, so that's a good sign. Internally, your engine may be fine. Perhaps run some Seafoam through it to clean any carbon deposits that may be hindering performance. Clean your injectors while you're at it (Seafoam works, as do quality injector cleaners... or you could spend a bit and have them professionally cleaned and balanced.)
Change your ignition components. Cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. Make sure the plugs are correct for your engine (you don't need fancy stuff... stick to basic Denso or NGK), and that the gaps are correct. Pre-gapped doesn't always mean right. I've never had an issue, but I still check every time. Get OEM Sumitomo wires, or at least NGK "blues". Cap and rotor can be inexpensive aftermarket.

Next, inspect your accessories. Are your AC compressor, PS pump, and alternator working as they should? If one of them isn't turning freely, it's creating drag on your engine. Granted, that is usually a sign that the component will seize sooner or later, so it won't be long before that becomes evident. Still, checking to be sure that nothing is causing a problem there would be wise.

What tires are you running? Do you have OEM wheels with standard all-season tires? If so, are they properly inflated? Or are you running some oversized wheels with sticky performance tires? Heavy wheels and wide, sticky tires will have a significant effect on fuel economy. If you have a setup like that, pick up a set of cheap steelies and all-season tires. I've had great luck with low-end General tires. Cheap, long-lasting, and they don't sacrifice too much grip. I was getting 40mpg in my Fit with those.

Check your brakes. Old cars like these often have dragging calipers or shoes. That, obviously, would cause some problems... low MPG among them. You can rebuild your own brakes easily enough, if you're at all mechanically inclined.

Do you drive with a heavy foot? Passing, weaving in and out of traffic... basically anything other than maintaining a steady speed? That would cost you a few mpg.

Do you run your AC? Again, that will do it. Unlike today's low-impact AC units, the CB's AC unit will drop MPG noticeably when in use.

Is your car properly aerodynamic? Do you drive with your windows down? Are you missing any bumper parts? Do you have a giant wing on the back? These cars aren't as slippery as a Prius, but they're decent aerodynamically. That said, any major changes can have a negative effect. Even having the windows down can decrease your MPG (granted, when it's hot out, it's either AC on or windows down... so you lose one way or the other!)

Finally, are you carrying excess weight? A trunk full of audio equipment or tools, perhaps? I'm in a band, and I used to cart around my heavy amp all the time. Sometimes I just left it in my car (2 practices per week, with a show at the end of the week... I'm not hauling that sucker up and down the stairs every other day!) I noticed a drastic decrease in MPG, just with that!
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Old 04-17-2017, 04:20 PM   #12
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The motor is healthy so I'll pick up some sea foam and run that through it. PS is deleted along with AC both were bad when I bought so I just deleted them all together. I couldn't see it needing plugs already being that I just put those in last fall along with wires but i didn't put a new cap and rotor so I'll go ahead and do that and report back with results.
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Old 04-17-2017, 04:44 PM   #13
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Quote:
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The motor is healthy so I'll pick up some sea foam and run that through it. PS is deleted along with AC both were bad when I bought so I just deleted them all together. I couldn't see it needing plugs already being that I just put those in last fall along with wires but i didn't put a new cap and rotor so I'll go ahead and do that and report back with results.
So I'm going to assume the car is healthy and you have a prelude engine/tranny. I'm thinking you have the usual prelude tranny 5th gear annoyance. While it's minimal change as mentioned anything is better than nothing as I'm in your boat. Driving 70mph and you're probably around 4000+rpm. Combine that with an aftermarket exhause and you'll need advil to do long trips, like me Adding the 5th gear set will bring this down to 3200rpm or lower, which is a huge difference when you have a long highway drive. That thread I posted will help you out if this is the case. Good luck
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Old 04-17-2017, 05:20 PM   #14
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I'm pretty sure he's running an F22A1 with an H2U5 transmission.
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Old 04-17-2017, 06:32 PM   #15
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Quote:
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I'm pretty sure he's running an F22A1 with an H2U5 transmission.
Oh! well .. that just makes no sense then My bad, ..... he listed the code above too. Now i feel like an idiot...

-----Anyways, Op, found from another post--

*Transmission Number*

The first 4 "letters" are your type:

H2A5 - manual (2/4 door DX/LX)
H2U4 - manual (5 door)
H2U5 - munual (2/4 door EX/SE)
MPXA - auto (any chassis/model).

The rest is the serial number:

H2A5 - USA (8000001)
H2A5 - JP (4000001)
H2U4 - USA (8000001)
H2U5 - USA (8000001), H2U5 - JP (4000001)
MPXA - N/A (4000001).
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Old 04-19-2017, 08:41 AM   #16
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yea it's the f22a1. Well on the way down to Willard OH Which is 300ish miles from my house in BC MI I was getting around 36ish mpg and that's including driving up to Sandusky and back to Willard and around Willard a bit. On the way home, same speed as what I drove on my way down my mpg just tanked I was somehow only getting 25 mpg.
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Old 04-20-2017, 09:18 AM   #17
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Do you actually record the miles driven and fuel used and figure the mileage for each tank of fuel? Buy fuel at more "reputable" stations (or consistently the same brand)? Some pumps can shut off significantly sooner than others. If you actually keep a log, how has the mileage been for the last few months leading up to this trip?

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Old 04-28-2017, 12:00 AM   #18
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Do you actually record the miles driven and fuel used and figure the mileage for each tank of fuel? By fuel at more "reputable" stations (or consistently the same brand)? Some pumps can shut off significantly sooner than others. If you actually keep a log, how has the mileage been for the last few months leading up to this trip?
I find this very interesting because I usually fill my tank up when it hits e and starts acting like it's hard to start. the most gas I've ever put into it was 14.7 gallons and the most miles I've gotten out of a tank is about to 290 to 300.. which is horrible barely over 20 mpg. I don't hot rod my car around or anything. I'm going to do a bunch of things that have been recommended and see what happens. I do know that I got a lot of oil in my spark plug wells. I have the oem replacement wires that deevergote mentioned mitsi something..sorry I've never heard of them before i bought this car...i really just don't understand why my mpg is so bad. I did just start a thread about a intermittent starting issue that i think might be my fuel pump.. Idk... Like i said ima try a few things that were previously mentioned.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:08 AM   #19
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You shouldn't let the tank get really low each time, the fuel cools the pump so with very little fuel in the tank it can allow the pump to get hot. Don't believe the listed 17 gallon capacity of the tank; that may be the actual volume, but not the usable volume. My wagon died while making a long sweeping turn (ran out of gas); I was able to coast to the bottom of an exit ramp, then restart and get to a gas station - it only took 15.3 gallons.

If you really want to know your mileage, keep a log. If you have a lot of oil in the plug wells, that can affect how well the plugs fire. Replace the tube seals (requires removing the rocker assembly) and properly adjust the valves when putting it back together.
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Old 04-28-2017, 12:24 PM   #20
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He has the H2A5 (stock DX/LX), I think the H2U5 (stock EX) has a slightly lower 5th gear?
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