AC recharge not holding! F22A1

[Vincevox]

It is now summer and my tinted windows are not enough to keep the heat away in this damn heat! So I tried to recharge my AC , so just let you guys know we already had the AC converted to r134 already. So I am not sure what that problem is , because I was able to have it going for like 20 min but only on low after adding a can. And after it was added it was only blowing hot air and would just die.

Please let me know what you guys think and if there has been already a solution that I have not found.

['93CB7Ex]

you have a big leak somewhere. look at all the ac lines and look for oily spots that appear green.

[F22Chris]

Do you have a manifold gauge set?

[masospaghetti]

You will have to look for the leak, if it escaped that quickly it will have pulled some oil with it and will appear greasy. UV dye will help, or you can use a manifold gauge set and hook up vacuum/compressed air and find the leak that way too.

[F22Chris]

You will have to look for the leak, if it escaped that quickly it will have pulled some oil with it and will appear greasy. UV dye will help, or you can use a manifold gauge set and hook up vacuum/compressed air and find the leak that way too.

Yup. Dye and charge the system. Don't put vacuum on it cause that will suck in not push out.

What was done to convert it?

[93_Accorn]

If you replace your o-rings and your receiver/dryer you will be good to go as long as its not your compressor leaking. Having a vaccum on it and seeing how long it holds will give you a good indicator how big your leak is. I myself replaced all the easier o rings. The ones at the firewall, the lines where they connect together, the condensors o-rings, compressors fittings o-rings and receiver/dryer with those o-rings as well. Did a vaccum on it and squirted a little pag oil with the correct amount of freon and has been good for 2 years. You can also add uv dye to the system to detect your leaks. Let's hope you didn't over charge it?

[Crankshaft]

By the book you are supposed to use vacuum to detect leaks not pressurized air due to pressurized air developing water(ever drained air out of an air compressor). Based on the size of the leak i would question a schrader valve, a leak in the pressure side of the compressor or like in my case; the seal on the compressor itself. Since the leak is already present, i would buy a seal kit which is about $20 and re-seal the whole system(including the expansion valve on the evaporator. When system is open you can drain the compressor of oil and refill to specs using the recomended viscosity oil WITH uv dye to help detect future leaks and never use leak sealer on any car air conditioner system. Since the system will be opened i would also replace the dryer at the very least and clean your condenser using the condenser cleaning spray sold at hardware stores. Last i must point that when retrofitting one must convert the amount of refrigerant needed from the charge amount used for R12 to the amount needed for 134a since it is believed that 134a is 30% more efficient pressure wise to that of R12.
Below i will post you a link with conversion table
http://www.underhoodservice.com/a-c-...e-right-price/

[93_Accorn]

^^ You're going to use less freon when converting from r12 to r134. I believe its either 80 or 85% of what the r12 capacity is.

[Crankshaft]

^^ You're going to use less freon when converting from r12 to r134. I believe its either 80 or 85% of what the r12 capacity is.

In the link i provided it list a chart with conversions and it includes the equation used for the retrofit.